DR750 & DR800 owners thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by MCmad, Jul 14, 2008.

  1. bluesman

    bluesman Long timer

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    About Marlboro Zeta.
    According to info I found in Belgium which kinda originating from Rahier's team (true or not - not sure) do not be fooled by stock-like looks of that Marlboro Zeta. Half of bike made of titanium (but to same shape as stock) as well as all bolts and nuts. It had 2 oil coolers too.
    That thing according to info I found was 155 kg dry weight and 67 BHP :eek1 and carried 64 liter of fuel! :eek1
    I might be talking rubbish here, but this is what I found - don't shoot messenger....
    Basically - that bike was "edge" back then, but nowadays IF they (suzuki) would have built it as production bike they easily could have put on the market something with just 24 liter tank instead of 64 liter monster, less titanium but more contemporary technology (read:sofistication) and EFI I guess we would have 160 kg dry 65 reliable BHP production bike with off and on road capability and enough size to carry luggage available from Suzuki dealers at price of somewhere between 690 and 990 KTM. Guess what it would've made to other dual sport sales including high-end machines.
    :cry Life is unfair
  2. mousitsas

    mousitsas Long timer

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    I found cheap a race arrow exhaust (muffler+mid pipe) made for an xt600. Talked to the seller who told me that the mid pipe id is about 40mm, so very similar to the dr800 header. So in terms of fit, I guess the combo will work, but do you think that it will also work power-wise?
  3. Ladder106

    Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

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    Hi Nave,

    Thanks for sending the photos....it's very helpful. I kept trying to imagine what your air cleaner modification would look like.....I failed miserably.

    I quess I'm a "visual learner".

    In any case, I'm happy to see you back here and also happy that more photos are being posted now. Your bike is very nicely done.

    Thanks to everyone that's assisted this DR "noob" so far. I'm still finding the bike quite amazing. Rebuilding the front brake caliper today. It looks like the front pads are the same as those on the early (pre 96) DR650, so I can easily replace pads.

    I plan on sending an e-mail to Herr Hessler today to inquire about brake discs and stock air filters.

    A few people have said that the stock air filter frame might be used and modified with foam from a Twin-Air or other foam filter. I'd like to do that but am a bit confused about how to go about it.

    Unlike my other bikes that take air fron the interior of the filter straight into the engine (air flows into the airbox - through the filter - then into the intake) the DR 750 (SR41) takes air into the center of the filter first then the air goes through the filter and clean air fills the entire airbox. I assume this is due to the large "gulps" of air the the engine takes.

    The air filter element is unsupported on the inside and supported by expanded wire mesh on the outside. This makes sense since the element is supported against the air flow.

    It appears that to modify the filter with foam I would have to remove the rubber "snorkel" and cut open the sheet metal on the outside of the box as shown in other posts....then remove the paper element and reline it with air filter foam.

    This is not beyond my abilities but I would like to know if I should change jetting to accomdate this modification. Does the air-flow increase enough with the increased opening to require a larger pilot jet and raising the needle one notch?

    It also seems that a potential "weak point" in the stock system is that the seal between the sheet metal part of the filter and the plastic airbox is critical. If this seal is bad, dirt just flows directly into the carbs. Adding more sealant here (grease, foam, etc) would probably be a good idea.
  4. bluesman

    bluesman Long timer

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    Can you send photo? If it is exhaust I think (stainless steel? Not very large diameter?) then you are lucky and snap it right away. Generally IMO arrows is ones of the best in terms of performance and sound. Even Acrapovic in interview told that this is only company in Europe he considers his direct competitor.
  5. bluesman

    bluesman Long timer

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    For airflow scheme - you got it spot on. Close to ideal scheme is filter into laaaaarge airbox for big twins and singles.

    As for fuelling - no way you can know it prior to modifications. Just go ahead - jets are standard mikuni jets, worst case you will have to spend 10 bucks to change them to suitable size.
    For foam filter - here is photo to help you - one of variants...
    The GURU of DR Big Stefan Hessler did that

    [​IMG]
  6. mousitsas

    mousitsas Long timer

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    Its this one, but pic is very small.

    http://www.moto.gr/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=74607
  7. nave

    nave Nave

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    the bike:tb
    [​IMG]

    and mr. Rahier
    [​IMG]
  8. bluesman

    bluesman Long timer

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    YESSSSS! Snap it. The exhaust itself almost same for DR, Super10 and Africa. It is original desert rally Arrows exhaust, rare find. LOUD :) very strong construction and some of them are can be disassembled and put together in 5 mins (1 or 2 bolts) - the idea was to be able to clean sand out.
  9. mousitsas

    mousitsas Long timer

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    Many thanks bluesman! Its down to 80 euros. I'm taking it tomorrow.
  10. bluesman

    bluesman Long timer

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    Yep, that Zeta - on picture was that beast. Thou final version still had some changes according to what I read - they cut off another 5 kg and did something with intake and cooling. I guess that Marboro Zeta (1988?) was final version. Or other way round :) I got all confused now :lol3

    Some small mistake in photo - it says inverted forks - well, they not. And notice - those are different bikes! As far as I remember bike with 2 oil radiators is later variant.
  11. bluesman

    bluesman Long timer

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    GET 2 of them! :lol3 At THAT price it's perfect!!! Just joking - I undestand there only 1.
  12. bluesman

    bluesman Long timer

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  13. mousitsas

    mousitsas Long timer

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    I think you are a moving DRbig encyclopedia. I will definitelly get it. My only concern is that it seems its a couple of mm smaller in diameter than the 800 downtube, but then again I 'm not too concerned about top end power to really bother. Any jetting suggestions? My bike is an SR43A.
  14. bluesman

    bluesman Long timer

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    Nah, it is not necessary DR related - I am just informational maniac :) I am boring people to death on every Intermot every year and if I can get my hands on bike, like repair or something - I never miss opportunity. It's hobby for me, my best relaxation :) as I have 3 kids at home - best to stay in garage :lol3

    As for pipe - well, you need to wait and see exact construction of the exhaust itself. On one hand link pipe smaller than DR, on other hand silencer is more "free breathing" - it should balance it all OK. I never had chance to disassemble that exhaust, nobody would let me do it. I do not know exactly how intake part is constructed, so...you can actually weld stainless very reliably using usual stainless welding sticks/rods and invertor kind of welder. So - see what you get. I will appreciate if you tell us more about "what's inside" :)
    For jetting - it never possible to know until you install all and roll bike in second gear "closing" trottle to see if it pops on overrun and see if it is big loud bangs - overfuelling...often small bangs - lean mixture. It is by touch and feel. I am not that good at it, but I have close friend (same madman like me) - he is brilliant at it, he teaches me sometimes.
  15. mousitsas

    mousitsas Long timer

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    Deal, if i can open it and close it without need for riveting (as i dont have a riveter) I will post pics. And I think i will get myself a dynojet kit for the bike to start from a good base jetting.
  16. Ladder106

    Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

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    How in the world to you get the SR41 air filter out without removing the fuel tanks???

    I had to take the tanks off to check valve lash but tried to remove air filter and could not. I finally coaxed the front screw out without removing tank and then found that there wasn't room to remove the filter unless tank was out of the way.

    That's not really "trailside servicable" is it?
  17. Jack Rabbit

    Jack Rabbit Adventurer

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    the airfilter is a bit of a pain to get out. I had to loosen my left tank to get into that last screw.
    I have been trying to come up with some sort of idea to remove or somehow change the airbox to allow a different filter to be used as well as gain easier access to it.

    I suppose it's not too bad if you stay out of the dust but who wants to do that on an adventure bike. I still have the snorkel on mine and leave it turned to the back (how it is supposed to be) which should eliminate forcing dust and dirt into the filter.

    I have thought of removing or opening up the airfilter itself and installing a flat foam filter over the hole like an XR 650R or similar. If you modified the old filter that would give you a double filter scenario. Not sure if that would be of any benefit.

    I'm still looking for ideas if anyone has anymore.
  18. ztaj

    ztaj jatz

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    The short answer is "you don't"

    Unless you have a very short screwdriver to undo the screw behind the tank.

    Don't worry about it, you'll get pretty sharp at getting the tank off.

    Might be able to just undo the 2 bolts holding the rear of the tank and gently lift it up, I 've never tried this so don't waggle your finger at me if it goes wrong
  19. Ladder106

    Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

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    Nope, I tried this but stressed the front tant-to-beak mounts. I removed those and was able to get a bit more room between the tank and the filter to get the screw out....but then the filter was too wide to come out of that space. It hit the tank before the filter cleared the airbox.

    Nave, that air filter adapter you made looks great. Is it CNC machined? You didn't happen to make more than one did you?


    TANK REMOVAL
    This is the second time taking the tanks off and it almost feels like a two person job. I get really nervouse removing one tank while the other just kinda dangles there unsupported. I sure don't want to drop one onto the floor.


    VALVE ADJUST
    Anyways...I adjusted the valves to .15mm (.006in) for intake and .20m (.008 in) for exhaust. They were set just a bit tighter than that probably to the "correct" SR41 specs. There was enough fuel in the filter and pump to start the bike and it doesn't make any nasty ticking noises so I should be OK.


    CARB EXPLORATION
    I looked at the carb slides and needles and found a bit of wear on the needles (the annodizing or whatever coating that is has worn off at the upper part of the needle but no appreciable change in the needle diameter). I looked down into the needle jets and they still look round so probably just minor wear there.


    OIL QUESTION (oh no...not again)
    What do you guys like for oil? Be gentle 'cause I don't want to start another "Oil arguement". I generally run Motul 5100 Synthetic blend in my bikes and plan on using that in the DR unless synthetic is a huge problem for these bikes. Don't see why is should be, but thought I'd ask.

    I'll replace all the bodywork and tank tomorrow and go out for some riding.
  20. ztaj

    ztaj jatz

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    My tank always comes off in one piece, seems the easiest way to get it off. Less bolts to undo

    I generaly use 15/40 semi synthetic in my bike, which ever brand I can get at the time