DR750 & DR800 owners thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by MCmad, Jul 14, 2008.

  1. the_sad_punk

    the_sad_punk Been here awhile

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    Firstly thanks Rob, Resi Blue Midlife everyone for the responses.
    To answer your question Rob there is about 30k kms up on her or so the odo says. Im inclined to believe it tbh.
    Resi i changed that crank oil feed seal on the clutch cover with a new one in the rebuild but il check it anyway tomo.

    Anyway heres the vid .
    http://s982.photobucket.com/albums/ae301/columandester/?action=view&current=MVI_4278.mp4

    Did id as ye guys suggested and there seems to be decent tension on the cam chain. The balance chain seems a bit slack but i didnt think it was excessive. I had just previously tensioned it and the noise was still there afterwards.

    There seemed to be a hell of a lot of lateral play on that big starter ring sprocket. I read its meant to have some play, but that much?

    All the sprockets i could get at seemed ok and not loose.

    There was however petrol in the oil. I checked the oil level on the dipstick before dropping it (pretty much the same level as always) but smelt it as i always do and it was evident there was petrol in it and the oil felt thin. I dont think its the problem though as the oil i dropped today has less than 20 miles on it and the previous oil was grand when i dropped that and had less than 1000kms on it.
    I did lately forget to turn the tap to off for a week so that may explain it if there was a sticky float. More work and so much for my carb refurbing skills eh:eek1. Changed the needle valve seals and had everything sparkling, new filter too.

    Anyway, just to to be clear, i noticed this noise at idle after a dyno run and sustained 75 to 85 mph motorway run home (about 50 miles). If you guys are happy my tensioner is ok (seems to be:hmmmmmor am i wrong?) and if the starter ring is ok that leaves the crank/conrod??
  2. Ladder106

    Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

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    Some of you regulars may remember a few weeks ago where I found a bit of metal lying on the bottom of the cover of the oil screen on the bottom of the engine.

    Well...yesterday after another oil change I found two more pieces.

    Popped them in a zip-lock bag and took them to the local father/son shop that I trust completely.

    Pop said he thought it might be the inner race of the sprague clutch for the large starter ring Yes...the one that SP it taking videos of last post.

    SP, my gear moved about that much also. I don't' think this is abnormal...unless others have a different idea.

    Pulled the flywheel and found all the sprague clutch races (inner and outer) OK, so Pop is wrong.

    The son thought is was a piece of bearing cage....damn.

    So here's the plan:

    Rather than pull the engine, I'm going to start by removing the left case (done) and pulling off the counterbalancer sprockets and having a look at all the bearings and cages I can see there.

    Then, if I find nothing I'll pull the right case, remove and clutch etc and have a look at all those bearings.

    If nothing is found with all that, then the engine comes out and cases get split until I can track down what's shedding metal bits.

    I'm certain my progress will be "glacial" compared to Resi's work.

    ---------------------------

    Given all that...question #1:

    Can't fit any screwdriver I have into the plug in the front of the engine to reduce cam chain tension. Crashbar and oil cooler mount stud seems to be in the way. Is there a secret screwdriver to use? I can barely see the tensioner and it looks like some kind of strange phillips head...or does a flat head work?

    I'll post photos as soon as I can find my camera (another unrelated problem)

    Thanks
  3. robmoto

    robmoto Long timer

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    Ray I use a flat blade screwdriver its a Stanley electricians one with red plastic handle and red plastic on the shaft you know the one that comes in a black box with other screwdrivers , you will have to have it on steeper angle than you think when using it to get it into the slot, when wound back I use electrical tape wrapped arround the screwdriver and frame to stop it from unwinding.
  4. robmoto

    robmoto Long timer

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    Colum everything looks ok , lateral movement in the sprockrt on mine is about 3mm but the bearing sounds noisy this maybe from the fuel in the oil can you get some mineral 10w 50 and shove that in it and see if any better.
    Its a low milage bike should not be the big end me thinks
    Behind the starter clutch there should be a thrust washer even though there is room for 3.
  5. the_sad_punk

    the_sad_punk Been here awhile

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    Ok will hunt down some dino 10/50 and see what shes like. Bte Rob, there way more than 3mm play on my sprocket, more like 5 or 6mm. Wonder was that thrust washer left out?:huh
  6. robmoto

    robmoto Long timer

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    Colum If you got a flywheel puller I would have a look anyway, does the clutch starter gear have much movement if you try to wobble it, ie , push one side while pulling the other, the bearing to me sounded like it was kinda dry maybe your oil was thinner than you thought with fuel adjust ballancer chain again and new oil and give it a start and see what happens.
    I have been fitting up a 150mm long filter to the yellow bike and a very small battery from anti gravity batteries lithium job to compinsate for the longer filter , and a mid to top end range cam should be here this week, I picked up the new rocker arms today.
  7. the_sad_punk

    the_sad_punk Been here awhile

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    Rob, no flywheel puller but i will order one from Hessler. The large starter sprocket doesnt have any play like you describe but there is about 5 or 6mm play in and out. You can see it on my vid. I had another look at that oil and it was very thin indeed.
    Do i need to flush the engine with something before refilling with oil? Either way there will be several changes of oil to get it out:eek1
  8. Simosez

    Simosez Been here awhile

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    you going hunting 690's Rob?:evil
  9. robmoto

    robmoto Long timer

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    Colum the engine is allready flushed:D:clapjust leave the dip stick out to get rid of any fumes left in there, 750 ebay has pullers for sale sorry I don,t what page it was about 65 bucks or 30 squid if your lucky the seller may have been Engand.
    Put a new filter in it and check the rubber type O ring behind it too.
  10. robmoto

    robmoto Long timer

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    You can overtake them Simon easy after 10 minutes of riding they get white fingers from the vibrations and carn,t work the front brake :lol3.
  11. bluesman

    bluesman Long timer

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    I disagree. If this is the case - 690 you tried was really set up to run ultra lean.

    690 vibrates MUCH less than DR Big. And - it is way faster bike. I rode alongside with 690 in difficult conditions not once, I saw it crash (and get minimal damage despite big crash) and it is really good machine. Which can't be said about 640 that vibrates worse than Harley.
  12. Ladder106

    Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

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    When using the flywheel puller a bit of caution is required.

    The first time I did this I completely removed the large bolt in the left crank that holds the flywheel on.

    I then screwed on the puller and began to tighten the bolt on the end. I've used pullers enough to have learned that after you apply a bit of torque, you rap the end sharply with a hammer.........After about 3 turns of tighten....tap...tighten...tap.......Bang!

    The flywheel released all at once and (luckily) landed in my lap.

    So.....when using the puller, leave the large crank bolt in place. Loosen it 10 or 15 mm (it's long), THEN use the puller.

    Not only is it better for the crank to have the puller shaft pushing against the bolt rather than the bare crankshaft but leaving the bolt in place will limit the distance the flywheel can travel when it comes away.....this can happen very suddenly.

    To prevent the flywheel from turning I cut the threaded portion off of a 12 mm bolt and inserted into one of the two holes on the circumference of the flywheel....then used a nylon strap run around the flywheel and attach to the front crashbar.

    Also...if you plan to loosen the balancer chain sprockets, this is the time. Use the strap flywheel holder to hold everything while loosening the balancer shaft bolts. If you remove the flywheel, tensioner and balancer shaft chain, you'll have to resort to the "special tool" to hold the balancer shaft sprockets.....or put everything back together again back to step #1 (yeah, I learned this the hard way also)
  13. Ladder106

    Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

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    So with the flywheel off........

    I noticed the large "uncommon" nut holding the balancer chain sprocket onto the crankshaft.

    I'm certain there is a "special tool" required for this nut. Does anyone have any ideas or knowledge of what can be used in place of the Suzuki tool?

    If I have to split the cases, this thing will have to come off.

    #15 in the drawing

    [​IMG]
  14. Resi

    Resi Been here awhile

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    Gidday.

    I got a piece 10mm stainless steel lasercut in the shape of the nut and built a Resi-special-tool :)
    If interested, I can support some pieces for a low price...

    Cheers,
    Lars
  15. shanekfalcon

    shanekfalcon Been here awhile

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    Hi everyone,

    Just thought I let you all know where I am at with my 800. After spending hours with carbie cleaner and rebuild kits, put it ack together and won't fire. It did fire once and when I stopped it, would not restart. I am very confident that I have done something wrong. Rob has graciously agreed to help me out as although I have learnt heaps, I am still out of my depth at this stage. So I'll take it down to Rob and take the chance to have it really set up properly and hopefully learn a bit more as well. It will get there, eventually, I am sure.

    Regards,

    Shane
  16. robmoto

    robmoto Long timer

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    Blue you wreckon you are no good riding on the dirt so how come this Ktm crashed twice don,t they handle .
  17. bluesman

    bluesman Long timer

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    :rofl

    KTM 690 Supermoto R. It is street bike on street tires.
    Crashed in France when I was on Tiger on....spirited...riding on paved roads. He got unlucky - hit longitudinal asphalt "wave" sticking about 10 cm on surface on exiting turn leaned fully open in 2nd I think. I can't even think what could have happened to heavier bike. He crossed central reservation, bumped road sign off pole, flew across opposite lane and landed on opposite lane roadside. We thought rider was in bad way - I saw it in mirror as he was right behind me and it scared me. I know guy well and consider him a friend. He got off with bumped knee that healed with no ill effects.
    Damage to bike - front plastic mask round headlight, both indicators, bent gear pedal (twisted badly). That's all.

    Same bike was BETTER offroad in Morocco than my DR and friend's GSA. I have to admit it. Despite it was on 17" wheels and Pirelli Scorpion tires. And it really beaten to death except motor.
    You can't beat 150 kg curb weight with 70 bhp.

    Of course it kicks back when you need to do 5000 km rideout - it's not most comfy bike :lol3 and not most reliable :lol3
  18. the_sad_punk

    the_sad_punk Been here awhile

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    Anyone know the dimensions of the o ring in the fuel tap?
    cheers!
  19. Ladder106

    Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

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    Uh-oh....someone's bored while waiting for the puller to arrive.

    I didn't even know that there WAS an O-ring in the fuel tap:lol3

    Resi.......any ideas of price for your special tool. If I can't come up with any local alternatives I'll have one, please.
  20. the_sad_punk

    the_sad_punk Been here awhile

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    I figured id fix my leak, sort the simple stufff first.
    It seems nitrile isint up to the ethanol so im sourcing them in viton.
    I remember someone mentioned the seal size, think it was Resi and if memory serves he wasnt definate on the size.
    Cheers for the info on the rotor removal, il leave the nut half in and wont wear sandals!