DR750 & DR800 owners thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by MCmad, Jul 14, 2008.

  1. Ladder106

    Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

    Joined:
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    Lars....many thanks.

    For some reason I never noticed the greyed-out parts. I was concentrating on the CDI unit .....and....I was looking at a file that was much too small. I increased the size so I could see.

    Then I looked up the word "enfallt" which google translated as "deleted"

    So, I would appear that I would have to cut the decompressor circuit completely out of the wiring system on the SR41 wiring harness.

    I've never really understood why the decompressor was part of the ignition system in the first place.


    However.....this does not seem like something that can be done and then easily restored to the original SR41 system.

    Is there any huge advantage to using the later CDI?

    If I remember... someone (probably you) said that the later models had 3 "timing moments" rather than one. I'm not certain what this means or how it's an advantage.

    Also there are certain wires on the SR43 CDI that are not used. Any idea what their purpose was?


    My reason for asking about using the SR43 flywheel and CDI in the SR41 will be aparent in the next post
  2. Ladder106

    Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

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    After living with my transplanted SR43 engine for a few more days and few more miles, I find I have a love/hate relationship with it.

    I love the taller gearing.

    I love the bit of extra power that this engine seems to have.


    I HATE the Vvvibbbraaation !!:p3rry


    Yes, I know that the Big is NOT a Goldwing and I don't expect that kind of feeling.

    But my SR41 engine ran with much less vibration than the SR43. I've put in 6 to 8 hr days riding the SR41 with no problems.

    The SR43 engine actually it starting to make my hands numb.

    This is not acceptable for me.

    Some History

    When I had the SR43 engine out of the frame and on the bench, I had to remove the SR43 flywheel, stator and ignition coil and replace it with the SR41 parts so the electronics would work. This has been successful and the bike starts easily and runs well.

    While the flywheel was off, I noticed that the balancer chain was quite slack.

    I adjusted the chain and found that the chain appeared to have been changed completely at some point since there were no "chrome" indicator links to be seen.

    The chain adjusted easily and the tensioner mechanism ended up about in the middle of the slots provided. I believe this is telling me that the chain is in good condition and not "stretched" to the point of throwing the balancer shafts out of phase.

    Per the service manual, I counted the links between the indicator marks on the crankshaft (at TDC) and the two balancer shafts.....I counted them many, many times while I turned the crank with a wrench to make certain that they were timed correctly.

    Presently

    Now it feels as if the balancers are NOT where they should be. The bike is not jumping the front wheel off the ground at idle or anything dramatic, but while riding, the vibration is obviously stronger than the SR41 was.

    I asked this question over at drbig.info. and was advised that the difference between the 41 and the 43 was noticed by others as well and that was just the difference in the larger displacement bike.



    So.....for those of you with both models. I'd like to have your opinions.

    Does the SR43 vibrate more than the SR41? Does it make the SR43 uncomfortable to ride?


    I have a few things I can do. I have bar-end weights to experiment with and I also have 2 sets of "Vibranators" from Ricor with different weights.

    I also have just received a brand new official Suzuki balancer chain (complete with the nice shiny "indicator" links) and was thinking about pulling off the old chain and replacing it with the official part.

    I am also wondering if running the SR41 flywheel on the SR43 engine had any affect on vibration. If I'm thinking about this correctly (possibly not) any flywheel should be balanced and should make no difference.

    However, I did notice that the SR43 flywheel had a metal strip added to one side of the flywheel and welded onto the outside. The strip was about 4 cm long and about 1cm wide. A balancer weight? or was this used to compensate for the weight of the SR43 piston and different characteristics due to the shorter stroke. The SR41 flywheel had no weight or metal strip added.

    Any idea are appreciated.

    Apologies once again for the long post. It seems I can't just ask simple questions any longer.
  3. Longdude

    Longdude Tall Geezer !

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2012
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    I don't feel I should be interrupting this latest thread, but I just want to show off my refurbished wheels...............then I'll go away..........

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  4. Ladder106

    Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

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    Threads are meant to be interrupted....no problem.

    Nice wheels.

    Are the spokes new originals or stainless steel?

    I am never able to get a tire mounted without at least scratching the rim one time.....well done.
  5. Longdude

    Longdude Tall Geezer !

    Joined:
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    Thanks Mate,
    But it was not me, I paid a shop to do it, I'm useless at wheel rebuilding. I went for galvanised spokes, cheaper and not so brittle with more flex, so better for off road (and cheaper). Not that I'll be doing the Dakar on it :rofl . The shop I use has blanks and bends and threads them to suit.
  6. Resi

    Resi Been here awhile

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    Jul 5, 2011
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    Ray, you're welcome.

    If you have access to blank connectors used on the loom you can easily make an CDI-swap.
    Okay, it's not a "5 minute waiting for a beer" job, but not that hard to get some gray hairs...

    Later BIG models had a throttle position sensor, AFAIK to keep the bike in (german) enviroment pollution laws.
    I heard about that the CDI "recognizes" that the bike is driven in test mode (over here 50km/h over some seconds) and reduces ignition some degrees to reduce HP and noise. But I never tested it out...

    Each flywheel should be balanced out by Suzuki, so you can interchange them.

    What I figured out: On my green SR43 the engine is vibrating when using a Laser ProDuro can.
    After I changed the exhaust system to a double can system the vibrations went pretty low...

    Cheers,
    Lars
  7. robmoto

    robmoto Long timer

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    Ray my motard is fairly light weight and has KTM forks with no rubber type mounting for the handle bars , I use those vibrinators in the bars and it will still give me numb hands in no time , Just recently I bought some pro taper ATV postrarmi bend bars and pro taper medium density rockstar grips this helped a fair bit and the bars were more comfortable roughly about 40 percent better than before I changed.
    The main problem is really the solid mount with the KTM forks .
    My yella terra bike is now a 800 and allso has lost some weight, I have never done any long road rides on it only a lot of dirt as the tracks and back roads are where I live and close by and I am using the same as above but no vibranators as I don,t want any extra weight but have fairy light weight bark busters from procycle, moose brand .
    Both these bikes have a lot of grunt and you can feel the thumps low down an mid range if using the throttle heavy.
    My standard you might as well say, red 750 is rather smooth but with same thumping low down and standard mirrors.
    My orange 750 is fairly smooth but get numb hands after say 1.5 to 2 hrs I have bark busters the ozz ones fitted and a pro duo with shorter stem 650 mirrors.
    My blue bike had the small DIA alloy bars and was fairly smooth but the throttle return spring was a bit to strong and I used to get a sore rist and not to bad numb fingers.
    I have just done work on a SR/42 in standard trim except for a produo exaust I put on it and sort off think it was the smoothest of the lot, which is totaly opposite to what Lars said so just maybe every bike has its own characteristics
    Funny now that I think of it I only get it in the right hand, so is it the throttle tube vibrating arround the handle bars.
    Just a thought maybe thats why SR/42 had those long mirror stems , and to come to think of it that SR/42 I just worked on for Shanefalcon fellow inmate he had extra extensions on his mirrors .
    Ray some times when I am riding long distances on road I will put a finger on the end of my thumb tip and allternate fingers and this helps heaps , its called old age mate, live with it :lol3, and suffer :D.
    I find these bike really to be no worse my 2008 650, and are you running knobbies might have something to do with it as well riding on tar.
  8. robmoto

    robmoto Long timer

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    Long dude the wheels look terrific but whats with all the weights those tyre must be out of whack heaps .
  9. bluesman

    bluesman Long timer

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    There are no way to predict this vibes thing - I am with Robmoto.
    On my SR43 before Husaberg forks and alloy bar vibes were worse than after. Then I installed ex-Benelli exhaust and it was better for me (but people in direct "line of fire" behind me on rideouts complained on low-tone "boom" sound).
    Then I done some work on motor and suddenly vibes got worse.
    Then I filled bar with silicone and vibes got lower frequency.

    On my new bike - Tiger 800XC, which is very smooth machine it went same way.
    Original - no vibes that even draw my attention.
    Installed Barkbusters - no problems.
    Installed LeoVince can - no problems
    Installed Rox Raisers - in 6th gear from 115 to 125 kmph vibes are impossible to accept, high frequency hand numbing.
    Installed Barkbusters bar weights - problem gone.
    At same time plenty of Tiger owners have same barkbusters and Rox risers and no problems.
    Individual balancing of secondary vibes very from bike to bike a lot.

    One thing for sure - always get rid of high-frequency, those are most harmful to your arms and nerves. To lower frequency you need to have solid mount bar weights, to lower amplitude - say rubber mounted weights...something like that.
  10. robmoto

    robmoto Long timer

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    Hi Blue good to see you still hanging about,
    Ray I forgot to mention all my bikes have SPC brand bar risers , except the yellow one its got power mad brand risers.
  11. Ladder106

    Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

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    Thanks fellas,

    I'll play with this over the next week or so to try to "tune" it down to an acceptable level.

    I keep thinking about that balancer chain and know myself enough to know that I won't be happy until I stick the original Suzuki bit in......so I'll ride a bit and then get on with that.

    Starting to tear down the SR41 engine so get ready for more questions.
  12. Longdude

    Longdude Tall Geezer !

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    Hi RobMoto, Yeah, half a pound of lead was used (think it is the rear tyre that's to blame) ! Got the engine back in the frame today.................................as easy as 123.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  13. robmoto

    robmoto Long timer

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    Longdude don,t forget to use blue locktite on your nuts and bolts .

    Ray have you checked your mounting nuts and bolts since the trans plant have a look at the ones under the tank.
  14. Longdude

    Longdude Tall Geezer !

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    Yeah, will do. I've also added a lot of nylock nuts. That should help. Thanks.
  15. Okta

    Okta rooky

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    Oct 22, 2008
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    Hungary

    Hi, I just ordered Wiseco ring set, like this: http://autoplicity.com/products/162910-wiseco_pistons_4158gf_in_our_pistons_deptartment.aspx

    You have to get your piston worked (get a bit wider the bottom "line").
  16. mait

    mait Been here awhile

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    Thanks for the link Okta. I looked at this set, too. I decided against it because

    1) Wiseco oil ring is 3mm instead of Suzuki's 2.8mm. It is possible to make the groove of the original piston wider but it is easy to screw the piston. Massive oil consumption was the reason I had started top end rebuild again so I didn't want to take any risk here.

    2) I wanted top compression ring to be chrome faced like all dual sport bikes have from factory (at least the ones with iron sleeve in cylinder). Chrome plated ring will last longer in dusty conditions where plain steel or iron rings will wear too fast. Not to confuse with chro-moly that is totally different thing.

    3) The most important reason - I had to bore the cylinder to next size 106mm. There was too much wear already.

    106mm pistons are not available from Suzuki any more. So I decided to order custom forged pistons from a manufacturer in the US. I had to order a set of 4 to keep cost reasonable. The pistons should be here in a couple of weeks or so.
    I do not need all 4 of them. Some will be for sale, anyone intrerested please let me know here or via PM.
  17. RaY YreKa

    RaY YreKa Palanquins RTW

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  18. Ladder106

    Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

    Joined:
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    Having a brand new official Suzuki balancer chain, I finally decided to use it on my SR43 engine rather than the SR41 rebuild (still waiting patiently on the bench).

    I spent a happy Saturday removing the left case, playing with stator and starter gears and installing the new balancer chain.

    I learned a few things along the way:

    ..The cam chain slack adjuster has to be accessed with a long standard screwdriver with about a 5-6mm head. The screwdriver must be inserted into the hole at the front of the cylinder at about a 30deg angle. This puts the handle well below the bottom oil cooler mount.

    ...After loosening the can tensioner (about 3 full turns clockwise as you look into the hole) you can maintain the position of the screwdriver by gently clamping the screwdriver shaft to the oil line. It doesn't take much force to hold it in place.

    ....The upper balancer sprocket can NOT be removed simply by loosening the cam chain tension. The valve cover must be removed, the cam sprocket bolts removed and the cam sprocket pulled to the left and dropped off the mounting position on the cam. This is the only way I was able to get enough slack in the cam chain to remove the upper balancer/cam drive sprocket.

    .....Using the official Suzuki balancer chain was nice since it had the colored indicator links that make timing the balancer and crank shaft a lot easier.

    ......I noticed that there was a visible difference in the length of the old balancer chain and the new one. When both chains were hung off the end of a screwdriver, the old chain was about 4mm longer than the new one. Whether this stretch/wear will improve the engine vibrations of the SR43 remains to be seen.....maybe today.

    ____________________

    At present, I'm having a bit of difficulty tightening/torquing the balaner sprocket bolts. I do not have the special tool necessary to hold the sprockets in place and the balancer chain slips if I try to hold the assembly still with the main flywheel bolt.

    Any suggestions or shortcuts here?

    Rob and Resi, I know you've both had many of these engines apart. Is there anything I can do before I start to fabricate a tool to hold these sprockets?

    Going to try to get the bike running today.
  19. mait

    mait Been here awhile

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    I used a simple angle grinder spanner to hold the sprockets. It was too small, the pins were a little too close to each other so that only one pin fit into the hole of the sprocket. It was not perfect but it did work. If you have one you can try if it will work for you.
  20. Ladder106

    Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

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    Thanks Mait,

    I remember you mentioning that now.

    I'm in progress now so I'll give it a try.