DR750 & DR800 owners thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by MCmad, Jul 14, 2008.

  1. robmoto

    robmoto Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,925
    Location:
    Australia
    Simon , I looked at it and thought the same thing but trying to pull the foam off I think its not possible it too well made anr the foam looks like its moulded in the polly ends.
    the foam is fairly open so it breaths actually to well and I would not use this filter for dirt riding by its self so the inner filter or sock doubles the thickness :deal.
    The main filter is what I use on the yellow bike, with the same sock sretched over the outside as the whole set up is in a ally box that I made.
    Just that the air flow of the 2 is in reverse.
    IF I was going to use pumpers so to get the max performance and wanted to use the standard plastic air box I would also do the top air box mod as well as all of this together might affect BST carbs in there standard form
    Give me ring and I can explain it a bit better.
    .
  2. wundis

    wundis Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2012
    Oddometer:
    83
    Location:
    Vilnius, Lithuania
    After months of waiting for parts, drinking beer and some work my Big started up "after half a turn". I was astonished.
    5 minutes of pure joy and excitement followed :dllama <= this is the emoticon for this

    Anyhow, i let it work for a minute or so, it was giving some dark smoke - ill check on that tomorrow, probably oil from repairs everywhere...

    Some new parts:
    New camshaft
    New rockers
    New valve seals
    New balancer chain
    New piston rings
    Some bearings, bits and bobs, seals there n there, base and top gaskets
    Carb float valves
    K&N air filter upgrade
    Exhaust sorted out

    something else i'm pretty sure i forgot to mention.

    Anyhow. i'm glad it works.

    If the smoke remains tomorrow, I'll get worried and really upset, as this is my first bigger Big repair. Moreover if its gonna be blueish - im fucked, as new gaskets were used and it will mean that ... ah who cares, i'm celebrating today. I'm glad I managed to do this all by myself, only help I got was to measure the cylinder/piston/rings for wear and to look into the valve head.
    I plan to get some pics ready, but they are really shameful (big was dirty) and irratic - it was hard to get pics done with greasy hands (plus Im using nokia, which takes 2 minutes to focus one shot).
    Keep you posted.
  3. robmoto

    robmoto Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,925
    Location:
    Australia
    Wundis, Things will have to bed in so take it easy on the throttle for a couple of takes of fuel , the rings need to wear in to to old bore.
    I hope you used genuine Suzuki valve stem seels.
    well done so far.
  4. robmoto

    robmoto Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,925
    Location:
    Australia
  5. Ladder106

    Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2005
    Oddometer:
    5,141
    Location:
    Davis, CA
    Thanks, Robo.

    Wundis.....

    Best way to seat new rings it to warm the engine until oil comes up to temp, then take it for a 10 minute ride. Go up through the gears using moderate to heavy throttle. Then use the engine to decelerate back down.

    Don't hold high rpm or constant rpm.....just accelerate and decelerate. Being too gentle will not help the rings seat.

    Let the engine cool a while then do this again.

    Then change oil and filter.

    Next do somewhat longer rides but don't do long droning stretches of motorway. Let the engine cool down after 20 min or so. You want heat/cool cycles. You want variable speeds to force the rings out against the bore but not holding one steady rpm. If it were me, I'd do another oil/filter change after about 100 miles or so.

    There are lots of articles on new engine break-in.
  6. shanekfalcon

    shanekfalcon Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 22, 2010
    Oddometer:
    304
    Thanks Rob. I use the bike daily at the moment and for the last two weeks and for several weeks to come this includes a trip up and back to my cousin's farm about 200 kms away. I've put a bigger case on the back and its great to take the tools up with and can go straight from road to farm laneways.
  7. shanekfalcon

    shanekfalcon Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 22, 2010
    Oddometer:
    304
    Hi guys,

    I've got four bikes here, the newest being a VStar 650 from 2000. So now I'm thinking about things like wheel bearings, steering head bearings etc. Now I know I can use things like hammer and punch etc but I would like to use the tools that make it easier. What do you guys recommend for things like blind bearing puller sets, wheel bearing service sets, steering bearing race removal tool, and so forth.

    Thanks,

    Shane
  8. Simosez

    Simosez Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2010
    Oddometer:
    452
    Location:
    eternally sunny lithgow
  9. spen

    spen on my arse

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2009
    Oddometer:
    346
    Location:
    sunny ireland
    Great job Wundis nothing better than a machine you have built starting and running :clap I put a camshaft and rockers in my 750 and had put plenty of oil around then when rebuilding, it smoked for a few minutes aswell but will be fine when the excess oil burns away . Just thought i would also post a link to a shop i got some heavy duty tyres from !! they have somw good stuff may be of interest
    http://www.zenoverland.com/
  10. wundis

    wundis Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2012
    Oddometer:
    83
    Location:
    Vilnius, Lithuania
    i'm confused now :/

    it starts fine, works fine for 20 seconds, then starts to work like a hit n miss engine + black smoke out of the exhaust.

    i've measured the float level with calipers - the lines are perfectly paralel, the level is at 14,7 mm. float level setup was made by following this link

    i thought the k&n filter might be the faulty bit, but no - the stock filter does absolutely the same thing.

    now when i measured the float level with the transparent hose the first time (carbs off, fuel in, tidy measurement taken) the results were +-0mm.
    Now I checked the fuel level after I shut down the engine - i got surprising results, both floats were way up, like +7 mm up. how is that possible? if I bend the adjustment tab on the carbs to compensate for the +7mm , the lines won't be anywhere near parallel.

    i somehow get a feeling that the new replacement needle floats (oem) have weak springs and are not able to hold up the floats in the middle point, vibration does its job and the small springs get pushed in, thus raising the floats and flooding the carbs = ergo the black smoke and shitty run.

    guys, i'm stuck and i need advice. buying another set of needle valves is a true robbery. bringing back these - dont think it will work like that.
  11. ausibatla

    ausibatla Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2009
    Oddometer:
    454
    Location:
    Waroona, West. Australia

    If you set the float height with the carbies level on the bench then they will be out a bit because they sit on the bike at a slight angle but 7mm is far too much because of that. Before you start pulling things apart again try adjusting the mixture screw. You might get lucky.
    Cheers.
    :clap:clap:clap
  12. wundis

    wundis Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2012
    Oddometer:
    83
    Location:
    Vilnius, Lithuania
    i'm a bit sceptic about trying to solve this issue with the mixture screw... afaik the mixture screw controls the mixture whilst iddling, and its influence on higher revs is rather small.
    high float level on the other hand will influence the mixture on all ranges. gonna double-post to the bst bible page.
  13. robmoto

    robmoto Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,925
    Location:
    Australia
    Wundis , If your floats are worn at the pivot points and the cage when the bike isn,t horizontal there would be a difference after setting float height.
    Did you put new seels around the sometimes brass sometimes stainless seats, these O rings didn,t get sprayed with carb cleaner buy any chance.
    How many klm,s on the bike because I have replaced floats and cages on bikes with 70k on them and these parts needed replaceing because I could not achive a correct height with the old ones .
    Allso have you double checked to make sure you have the fuel lines on the correct location and not on the breather or ass up.
  14. wundis

    wundis Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2012
    Oddometer:
    83
    Location:
    Vilnius, Lithuania
    now that was a chaotic reply :) thanks anyway :)

    i've used carb cleaner when i dissasembled everything. not after :) all o-rings are new, float cage looks straight and proper.
    ill have a look at the orings again today (hopefully).

    PS the bike has ~50kkm on the clock
  15. wundis

    wundis Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2012
    Oddometer:
    83
    Location:
    Vilnius, Lithuania
    once again, the tricky bit is that when i measure the float height by pouring in fuel on carbs sitting on a bench - the level is ok. when mounted on the bike after all those vibrations - its way +. to me it looks like that small annoying spring in the float valves is too weak. the floats keep rising causing all of my problems.

    i need to check if my theory is correct, must do the bench test again and tap them slightly to see if the level changes.

    PS robmoto, did you compare the old floats and the new floats? could you tell what was worn visually? ive got my brothers big next to mine, i can check how his floats are... in secret of course.
  16. robmoto

    robmoto Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,925
    Location:
    Australia
    All I remember is at the pivot point I could wobble it from all directions and easily see that it was a sloppy fit .
    One would assume that both parts would be worn,
    Have you got a inline filter as some rubbish my be stuck to the seat, yours being a SR/43 should have over flow pipes, leave the fuel on and see if it is leaking out the tubes .
    Allso drain the bowls just to see if any crap has come through.
    Try gentle taps with a screwdriver handle around the bowl area as one of the floats could be stuck.
  17. robmoto

    robmoto Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,925
    Location:
    Australia
    SR/43 I don,t have one, but don,t they have a shaft that is connected to both enrichnes and a pull cable, if so, check that it is returning to full off when pushed to off.
    Its all a process of illumination :D.
  18. p3dro

    p3dro Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2010
    Oddometer:
    30
    My DR800 has been at the Garage for 2 and a half weeks now.
    They're still not able to get it to spark.
    The generator was re-wound but no change. Next they suggested we change the cdi, I found one in Germany which is now fitted but still no joy.
    I'm too scared to ask how many hours they're going to charge me for this. When I popped in on Saturday there were 5 of them crowded around the bike with electrical gizmo's trying to work it out.
    I don't know if I can take any more of this.
  19. Simosez

    Simosez Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2010
    Oddometer:
    452
    Location:
    eternally sunny lithgow
    do you have the manual for the bike? it goes through how to test each component quite thoroughly. test each component individually as per the book then start looking at how the system works as a whole. there are a few tricks with the big that several things need to be correct before it will start.
    or you could skip town and never return:lol3
  20. wundis

    wundis Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2012
    Oddometer:
    83
    Location:
    Vilnius, Lithuania
    As Simosez suggests, go step by step - the schemes are in the manual, check the fuses thoroughly, check the cabling and contacts (especially ground) thoroughly, check the sparks, coils, high voltage cables, ignition key, ignition shut down button, clutch indicator (must be shortened), side stand indicator (must be shortened).

    There have been a number of people with similar problems lately, remind me - it turns but theres no spark?