drops of oil in the rear

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by walkingbear, May 15, 2013.

  1. walkingbear

    walkingbear Lets Play Chicken!

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    The rear boot between the driveshaft and transmission.

    Notice over the last few days a few drops of oil. Oil is from the shaft?
    Boot is crack and old. Is there an easy way beside taking the boot on and installing a new one?
    #1
  2. ME 109

    ME 109 Long timer

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    New boot needed. Not easy, but not too bad either. Undo swing arm pivot bolts to move swing arm rearwards.
    #2
  3. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    I suppose you are talking about your '75 or '83 bike. They are both wet drive shafts. Not sure about a '94 bike, it might be dry? But I don't know.

    The boot is replaceable and the clamps are also available. Two different sizes for the clamps. The boot has a way to fit correctly. Look at it carefully enough and you will see that one end is round, transmission, and the drive shaft end is square. If the drive shaft bolts have been in place a long time they may actually have washers on them and the washers, or some of them, may be cracked or broken. Replace with the shorter bolts that work with out washers. Disconnect the swing arm from the frame and it will move rear ward enough to get the boot in place. It's nice to have a 27mm socket trimmed enough to fit into the recessed area for the pins lock nut but the tool kit box end wrench will also usually work.
    #3
  4. regomodo

    regomodo Been here awhile

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    Of all the things non-engine on an airhead the boot is the hardest i'd say.

    After wrestling and nearly losing a finger or two I tried oiling the boot and then grabbed it with a rag. A little bit of wrestling and the boot popped right on.
    #4
  5. walkingbear

    walkingbear Lets Play Chicken!

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    gonna pull the swing arm.. Take the rear wheel off first . Loosen the bolts the shaft cut the boot off .. it is useless. Have more room and take swing arm off
    grease and re-torque. Buy new smaill bolts and both . Should take forever but I'm retired. Plus I just got a new toy that just showed up
    #5
  6. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    That's how I do lots of stuff. It seems easier in the long run and you can see what's happening so there's less chance of making mistakes.
    #6
  7. batoutoflahonda

    batoutoflahonda Long timer

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    Helps to use a cotter pin extractor when pulling the boot back on the trans/ swing arm. I like to get it on the swing arm first, tighten he bolts, then use a cotter pin extractor (something about the bend makes it work great for this) to pull it onto the trans. BUT, I am right handed.
    #7
  8. driggles

    driggles Adventurer

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    Just did this job, and no, there's no easy way! It's not bad though....remove rear wheel, remove shocks, block swingarm in position, cut off old boot, remove trans output flange bolts (gearbox put in gear held the driveshaft still), remove swingarm pivot bolts and remove the swingarm to the rear and out. Then you'll be able to clean the road grunge and old grease out of the bearings and frame around the pivot points. Test the bearings by spinning them around in place, but don't remove them unless they're bad because they can't be removed and then re-used. This would be a good time to remove the airbox and unbolt the tranny and remove it to lube the splines if you don't know when it was last done. This is a also a good time to check/replace the neutral switch under the tranny too.
    #8
  9. ME 109

    ME 109 Long timer

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    Why 'cut' the old boot off? The new boot can't be cut on.....
    The old boot should come off without too much trouble.
    Clean, clean, clean, before installing the new boot.
    Make sure the new boot slips under the little 'keeper tabs' on the swing arm.
    Don't use oil to help slide the new boot on because it can make it rather difficult to hold the boot in just the right place while tightening the clamps. And oil will help the clamps slide off the boot when tightening.
    #9
  10. batoutoflahonda

    batoutoflahonda Long timer

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    Also, if it is a GS. I use a cinder block to set the final drive on to hold it and then it makes it a straight shot to get the bolts on.

    Also, it you to torque the bolts this helps. I have one but wish the arm was a bit longer so the head of the torque wrench would clear easier.

    http://www.northwoodsairheads.com/Tools.html


    [​IMG]

    I also use blue lock tight as I've had them come loose before. You have to get ALL the oil off the bolts and out of the holes tho.
    #10
  11. driggles

    driggles Adventurer

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    Why not just cut it off? It's kind of a pain to hold it out of the way while removing the bolts...
    #11
  12. ME 109

    ME 109 Long timer

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    Well there is that then.
    But then again, not cutting it of is a like a refresher course for when doing the bolts back up. :D
    #12
  13. darklight79

    darklight79 drink it , ride it , nail it

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    Change boot when changing driveline its just a matter of when band aid it till the drive line goes. Output drips are SOP
    #13
  14. Beezer Josh

    Beezer Josh Moto-Amish

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    It may be too late now, but since you're halfway there why not lube the transmission input splines while the swingarm is off and the drive bolts are undone?
    #14
  15. Big Bamboo

    Big Bamboo Aircooled & Sunbaked

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    Also, make sure the boot is installed with the correct orientation. The rear opening is more square shaped and the word "OBEN" goes on the top.
    #15