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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by tdrrally, Jul 24, 2008.
Sorry to drag up an old post but I am looking at fitting a replacement to my old 98 SJ45A DR250XC. Could you possibly post a pic of the exhaust from the other side as Im really struggling to find anywhere who will sell me a bush. What is yours made from? Is it a standard graphite item or did you get it machined from soft metal?
Finally, anyone know if there are any differences other than inl;et diameter between an 06 and an 08 spec RMZ250 exhaust as the 06 ones are really hard to find at reasonable prices.
Hopefully these photos will clarify a few questions,
The bush I had made by a friend with a lathe or find something slightly larger that can easily be machined down/up to the required size, you could even use S/S or brass.
06 and 08 RMZ250 tailpipes look very similar, use google images and look at hi-res images of both bikes and although they went from a steel frame to alloy frame the tailpipes look very similar dimensionally.
The tailpipes shouldn't be too hard to find secondhand as these owners love to upgrade to 'performance' pipes
Good luck, any other ? fire away, cheers.
New seat for my old girl.
Well as my little beast has taken me the best part of 2 years to put back together ( thanks multiple deployments) the motor is together, I just want to get a workshop to double check the timing so it doesn't implode on start up.
I trial fitted the drz400 rear shock.
It will fit with some slight mod to the shock and a little to the bike. The shock mod being the lower mounting piece needs to be shaved a couple of mil easy side to fit the 250 knuckle, and to the bike the right hand side plastic cover metal lug that hold it in place need a gentle tapping with a hammer to allow the shock resivour to fit. I may also grind it back about 10mm so it has no chance to touching.
Also fitted my hand guards and windshield and GPS mount.
I also got brackets made to fit the XR400 17 liter tank so that will be fitted soon
Still to come is a tm33 pumper carb, new exhaust and some soft panniers.
Once it all setup I will run it in then be gifting it the the wife
I've stopped progress this week as I bought a ktm625 so I've been having fun on that instead!
Rear shock Upside down but needs shaving to fit
GPS mounted with a ram 1inch ball mount with gizzmovest. Still lets me se the speedo
Front of the bike with screens for bikes windshield and hand guards
Nice work MendyDRZ, looks like it will be a fun little bike for the wife.
Could you pls let me know where you scored the DRZ400 shock and the TM33 Pumper Carb?
Keep us posted on the drz400 rear shock mod. I`m very interested in hearing more.
I got the shock for free, brand new!
Lets just say it fell of the back of a truck!
Can anyone offer some advice on what rear sprocket I would need to give my Djebel 250 more lower pulling power to get up steep hills?
I've read on Thumper Talk that the DRZ400 rear sprocket is a direct swap for the DRZ250, so that should open up the available parts to choose from.
This kind of hills:
Hi guys sorry for my absence,nice to see new machines,more good info.
BTW I got a new for me DRZ 250 almost new,I will be posting pictures later on.
Depending if you ride on the road or not, go 2x teeth more on the rear sprocket for off road type of riding - this is very good for off roading, but it may make the engine very busy at 100kph or so tho.
Leave the front sprocket standard, cheers.
My best advice would be to leave the rear sprocket as it is.
Best off going gown a tooth in the front easier to change as its held in by a circlip. Maybe even 2 teeth and flat stick it in second.
When I put a 12 tooth on mine it's top speed was about 85kmph but it climbed anything in second and third
That way you can change it easily before taking on the hills and switch it back over for the trip home
i run a 13/46 on the road its ok off road, some times a 15/46 but its to tall for any off road use
i run a 13/49 off road its very good but 12/49 sounds like its worth a try
Here is a good little calculator to help you decide. You enter the number of teeth on the front and rear currently running and then the number for what you are thinking about changing to. It calculates the % of change you can expect to gain or loose. I have been changing out just the front sprocket when tackling steep off road riding, I go down one tooth and leave the rear alone. It is easier and you get an instant 7% or so of gain in low end grunt. Plus if you need to you can still run on the road. Here is the site:
3:1 is near stock gearing for a stock d/s drz/djebel 250
I found this useful information at TT:
According to the official parts fiche, the
DR-Z250 has a 13 tooth front sprocket. It
has always had that front sprocket.
To figure out how changes in tooth count
will affect the bike, take the ratio of the
front tooth count over the rear tooth
count. Thus, stock is
13/49 = 0.2653
If you change to a 51 tooth rear, the new
13/51 = 0.2549
The percentage change in mechanical
(0.2653 - 0.2549) / 0.2653 x 100 = 3.9%
If, instead, you change the front from a
13 to a 12, the new ratio would be
12/49 = 0.2449
The percentage change in mechanical
(0.2653 - 0.2449) / 0.2653 x 100 = 7.7%
Because there are fewer teeth in the
front, the change of one tooth is a bigger
percentage change. However, 12 teeth is
a fairly small sprocket and requires the
chain to bend more quickly. That is why,
when I upgraded my DR-Z250, I added 2
teeth in the back, rather than dropping
one in the front. I also changed the
chain, but the stock chain should be able
to fit with a 2 tooth increase in the rear.
Going to a 53 in the rear will get you a
7.5% mechanical advantage. However,
the stock chain may no longer fit. Is
7.5% enough to loft your front wheel? I
don't know, but it is a step in the right
Front Rear Rpm Kph Mph
14 41 4500 100 62
14 41 4950 110 68
14 41 7800 173 108
14 43 4700 100 62
14 43 5200 110 68
14 43 7800 165 103
15 46 4700 100 62
15 46 5200 110 69
15 46 7800 166 103