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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by tdrrally, Jul 24, 2008.
Simply designates the year it was made.
OK, got myself in a pickle. I am supposed to take my bike to an offroad riding class(Army requirement) tomorrow and it is already paid for. I am in quite a crappy position.
I grinded down the restrictor weld as described in the afore mentioned article.
I got it back on, and tightened down. at first there was a small amount of greyish/whiteish smoke coming out of where the pipe connected to the engine. Picture here:
I got that tightened down as much as humanely possible, and It seems to have gone down to a very very small amount of leakage.
Next problem is now I can't seem to get the fuel screw set right. I have a normal idle, but I have gone from all the way closed(factory setting on the BSR-32, to all the way open one quarter turn at a time and it still does not operate correctly.
When I am riding I hold the throttle at a steady position the bike sputters while riding in first or second gear. Never went far enough to get above that
Off the start it is plenty powerful, then it just feels like it is not getting enough fuel but it did this even when I had the fuel screw all the way open. I am having problems figuring out if it is running rich or lean because it acts like this no matter where I have the fuel screw at. Any input or anything you need from me, I will be sitting here and staring at this screen.
Just a quick reply but firstly start with the basic stuff:
Make sure you have the inlet and outlet rubber boots sealing correctly on the carb(you could have a air leak to produce that complaint)
Fuel screw should be approx 2.75 turns out(std setting for un-modded carb)
Have you cleaned out the carb?, if not it may have a blocked jet or orifice leading to jet etc
Good luck let us know how you fare!
well not so well. I luckily have my DR set up for dirt so I took that to the ride and took the DRZ to a mechanic because I literally tried everything. different jets, needle settings, and I just could not get it dialed in. My neighbor finally came out and said that he would shoot me with his "assault rifle (AR-15)using his 30 round magazine 'clip' and then put it on a liberal website" if I gunned my engine one more time.
So hopefully I will have everything working and will not be completely broke within a week.
while searching for something completely different, I ran across another site that does full graphics for the DRZ-250. Here you go if anyone is interested in hooking up their bike.
OK, so I have been trying to prioritize the upgrades/aesthetic mods for my DRZ. I know I am going to be riding it hard. Not motocross of course, but I like to go fast. I have it uncorked already.
1. BBK to 300
2. suspension upgrades (need recommendations for this. I know I will be doing some jumps since the closest place to ride is the track on post where I am moving to)
3. fork guards
4. aftermarket exhaust (will this actually increase performance vs bored out stock exhaust?)
5. new tires as there is only a few more rides left on the ones that came on it
6. Bark busters. I am thinking yellow Acerbis unless someone can recommend something better
7. new Carburator(The california carb seems to be the low end of all carbs)
Any input on what to do first, what not to do etc would be appreciated. This is strictly for off road riding. I am using my DR350SE for all onroad/adventure riding.
I hear what you're saying i've thought long and hard about appropriate mods to my DRZ also, both performance and aesthetics.
What I keep coming back to tho is if I get too carried away, a) it will cost lots of $$$ and b) it still won't be a CRF or RMZ etc.
So, in order to maintains it's ultra reliability etc i've just done the un-corking + 1-2 other mods (as per photos a few pages back) i have also spoken long and hard to friend/owner of a dirt bike shop and he maintains "I need to learn to ride the bike faster" and when i'm grounding the suspension out etc all the time maybe then look at upgrading.
As he tells me becauce the DRZ isn't powerful it teaches you to become a better rider as you can't rely on wheel standing at command type of performance to get you out of trouble, so on I carry with the 250.
The DRZ actually has pretty descent suspension as std, with some simple tuning and fresh oil etc they're OK.
A BBK to 280-300 would be nice, but what extra you get is just a more 'deeper' pulling power, not shit loads more HP as i'm told by those who have done it and right upto 325cc kit.(325cc was 'brilliant' as i'm told)
As for fork guards - yes I too am thinking along the lines of a all in one front number plate with plastic legs to protect the fork chrome in place of rubber gators and give it a more USD fork look etc.
I have the TM28 pumper and it is really good for instant 'go forward' and a bit 'crisper' acceleration. Although given 1/2 a chance I'd like to try the DR350 33mm pumper (maybe you could try this )
Phew, think I've said enough for now, good luck and keep us updated on what avenue you go down.
usd forks are worth a look at, drz400 forks are a close second
the tm 36 pumper is a go call with bbk
i like the cycra probends over any other hand guard myself
If you end up getting the pumper carb, let me know what you want for that CV carb. I sold my DRZ to a friend, but it has a damaged carb. We made it work but a replacement would be better.
Thank you for all the input. You may be correct. The thing is when I do upgrade I will probably still keep this bike. So money spent wont be lost. However I might be better off sacking that money away for a CRFX when I have gotten all I can out of the DRZ. Thanks
Any idea where to obtain decent inverted forks? I know nothing of forks, so I would hate to run across what I thought was a deal then buy something horrible.
If i do this it will be a while out. I am definately looking into getting rid of that california carb. When I do, I will let you know and hopefully you will have some use for it.
oh and FWIW my first mod is going 12/50 gear ratio. I know I will lose some top speed, but I think in the gnarlier stuff I will like it better. On the flatter stuff I can always to a quick swap out of my front back to 13.
i have seen usd forks on flea bay, for a good price
you need the triple, forks, wheel, axle ect.
most suzuki's use the same rotor and caliper
i have a 2004 rm 250 usd forks on my k2
Back to the comment on the "California carb": I made the following changes to my 2006 which had this carb--
Jetting changes pilot 12.5 to 15, main 132.5 to 137.5 (1) 1 hole in airbox top (3) in right side of airbox = (3) Uni 1 filters. (1) .070 shim between nylon washer and next ones up on needle. Snorkel removed.
It ran like a champ. The needle shim eliminated a hesitation between 1/2 & full throttle.
I also rejetted. I opted for the dyno jet kit which comes with adjustable needle. I have it set at the 3rd setting as per the instructions but I havent gotten it back from the shop yet to see if that is where they left it. I ended up getting in over my head and couldnt get the air/fuel mixture set right. But the snorkel and holes in the airbox were the first things I did. Once I get it back that will probably be he last time I jack with that carb until I get a new one.
OK, so apparently with the California Carb that I have drilling the air box is bad. I used the size bit instructed in the write up. I just got the bike back today finally, and the reason I couldn't get the fuel/air mixture right is that there was too much air flow. FML. So now I have to find a way to cover the holes back up. I gotta find some plastic and epoxy to seal them. I am going to do one, see how it runs and then if it is still too lean I will have to cover the other.
So there are some rags in the holes right now, but before I ride it this weekend I gotta seal it up Atleast I found the reason that I couldn't get it right no matter how much I jacked with it.
Ok, I patched the holes, now it hesitates on the take off. FML. Tomorrow I will probably just go toss it off a cliff.
how about a larger jet then?
for the hole, clean booth inside and outside of the airbox with some degreaser and the then rubbing alcohol at the holes. then use some gorilla glue tape on both sides. it won't budge. http://www.gorillatough.com/index.php?page=gorilla-tape Use for while you do testing. when you finally have it dialed then you could expoy some plastic over the hole or maybe not needed.
go back to stock settings and do I carb change at a time and see what happens. are your guidlines elevation the same as yours and if not did you compensate for that? you also have to measure float bowl height.
everything as set per instructions in the instructions. basically sea level.
I will have more time to mess with it today. I will follow the above instructions which I missed the last time I came on these forums. I am thinking it just needs to be covered up on one side, and that will probably be where I need it to be. I am just frustrated, and prone to tossing stuff off cliffs. Except puppies, I would never toss a puppy off a cliff.
I don't know jack about bowl float height.
I am not sure if I can go back to stock settings because I grinded down the restrictor weld on the header pipe and the exhaust tip is bored out.
All running well. Holes fully covered. Needle set richer, different pilot jet and now she runs like a dream. And for my next disaster I will be putting on my new 52T rear sprocket. Any special crazy things I should know for this one?
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make sure to clean out the allen bolts real good so your tool can seat all the way in. on the nut side heat helps a alot either with heat gun, propane or even a lighter for a 30 secs of so.