Drz400 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Britmick, May 4, 2007.

  1. bobbed06

    bobbed06 Cavalera Conspirator

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    That one place......
    Thats a modded S, I wanted a street legal full subframe bike to start with.
  2. buls4evr

    buls4evr No Marks....

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    Motor and frame are lumps. You could spend a fortune and still be in the 295 range.... Unfortunate.
  3. ohgood

    ohgood Long timer

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    all of it ! get a lighter bike ! the drz ain't, won't, ne'r be it !
  4. BEEF706

    BEEF706 King of the dumb dab

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    So... I have issues (I know, this is not Dr. Phil) with my DRZ. Went out to start her up this weekeknd and she tried to turn over, but stopped abruptly. I assumed the battery had atrophied, which was why I went to start her in the first place. but after charging she didi the same thing, so I did a little research, and I think I have had a fuel petock leak, and that maybe the cylinder is full of gas. I already have a plan i place to replace the petcock, and check the floats in the carb, but I have a dumb question, (the main kind I seem to ask :D) how do I get the top end drained to get her started again? Thanks for the help.
  5. Gadget678

    Gadget678 Long timer

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    In the absence of a decomp ...pull the spark plug out & turn it over.
  6. BEEF706

    BEEF706 King of the dumb dab

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    In the words of Homer J Simpson, DOH! Thanks mate, I really should have known! :norton
  7. DR-Zamboni

    DR-Zamboni Been here awhile

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    Ive been in that boat... I wouldnt use the electric start to clear the cylinder. Pull the plug, put her in 3rd maybe 4th, and push her up and down the driveway a few times. Get ready for a fuel geyser. You are going to have fuel in the case too, so drain it and put some fresh oil in there while you are at it. This happened to me over the summer, i also mistook the situation for a weak/dead battery. I ended up cranking the thing so many times that i hydraulically bent an intake valve. I felt like an idiot, but it gave me an excuse to order a 440 kit while I had the head off, and install the thinner base gasket (as the E model is built) for higher compression.

    Let us know how it goes, if you still cant get it to start after everything send me a PM. The whole ordeal is still fresh in my mind and I can probably help you diagnose any issue.
  8. buls4evr

    buls4evr No Marks....

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    Then replace your petcock with one from a Yamaha 660 Raptor ATV....manual so you can turn it off.
  9. BEEF706

    BEEF706 King of the dumb dab

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    Thanks guys, I have a weekend project now:rofl
  10. MotoBoss

    MotoBoss Bad Influence

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    I'd like to try and avoid an issue like BEEF706. I have a 2011, so would the Raptor 660 petcock work as well on my bike.

    I'm new to the DRZ world, as you can see by my avatar a KLR, now gone.

    Thanks
  11. 150ron

    150ron Long timer

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    I allready have the Yamaha petcock on my drz, on/off/reserve, and still had the same problem he had with a hydrolocked engine full of gas, my problem was the o-ring around the valve seat in the carb bowl, pretty easy fix,

    When my engine was hydrolocked, i did not know the proper way to drain it out, i just kept cranking and cranking until it started :D
  12. The Recycled Teenager

    The Recycled Teenager Been here awhile

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    Any images of the O ring location :wink:
    Oh and where did you get it :ear
  13. buls4evr

    buls4evr No Marks....

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    Ok you guys so here it is. Raptor 660 petcock, Yamaha part # 5LP-24500-01-00 . It was about $26 when I bought mine. It fits on exactly like your Suzuki one internally and at mount holes. Cap off your vacuum line right on the carb itself with a cap that fits from your auto parts store and safety wire it on the carb.... no leaks!

    If you are thinking each time ,you will shut it off at the tank and then you will NEVER hydraulic your engine overnight no matter WHAT your carb does. There is not that much gas just in your float bowl.
  14. 150ron

    150ron Long timer

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    You see part number #18 in this chart

    https://www.thumpertalk.com/shop/oe...anufacturer=6&category=5&year=2007&model=5203

    its that little o-ring that sits around the valve seat, i removed the valve seat and the o-ring was completely flat, took it with me to orielly auto parts and found one that looked the same, that fixed up the problem, but just to be safe, i now turn the fuel to the OFF postion when the bike is gonna be sitting for a few days or so.
  15. ifixfords

    ifixfords Been here awhile

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    Call me crazy, but I turn my fuel off every night. It can easily fill the cylinder overnight. Keep fuel out of the engine, check your oil and coolant on a regular basis. Your DRZ will last a very long time.

    DRZ400E Tagged
    KTM200XC-W ""
  16. CatfishRacing

    CatfishRacing Just a rider.

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    If you're flooding your cylinder with fuel your carb float is not shutting the fuel flow down properly.
    Fixing your carb will help.
    I never had that problem (with my DRZ's) but I bought the petcock from eBay that allows you to shut the fuel off so I wouldn't need to rebuild my carbs every year with the crap ethanol we get here.
    I was on the highway for 3 exits with it off before it actually starved for fuel.
    I shot the lock off my wallet and bought a Pingel for my "S" and another for my "SM".
  17. ifixfords

    ifixfords Been here awhile

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    Sorry, I should have stated that more clearly. I don't have a problem, just planning on avoiding the possibility. I really like my DRZ just like it is. :)

    [​IMG]

    DRZ400E Tagged
    KTM200XC-W ""
  18. toadl

    toadl Been here awhile

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    I like the stock Fuel Petcock because when I drop the bike, which is often, fuel doesn't come pouring out the side of the carb. I have 20,000 miles and my bike is 11 years old, I run crappy fuel through it and have never had any problems with the petcock.
    When I wipe out and am a little shaked up, I don't want to have to run over to my bike because gas is rapidly spilling out. I like that I can leave the bike down while I cry and swear.
  19. threadkiller

    threadkiller Semi-feral Pappy

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    Or you can use a golf tee and zip tie. It's worked for me for two years.

    *former KLR owner here...
  20. DR-Zamboni

    DR-Zamboni Been here awhile

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    I agree with the above idea. Even though i needed to install new valves and basically do an entire top end rebuild after having my petcock leak and fill the case. i still like the vac operated petcock.

    I think some people in here mis-understand the reason for using the raptor petcock. It is so you can shut the fuel off manually every time you stop the bike.

    The stock petcock actually does shut off when its not running. Its done through a vacuum line from the carb that activates a diaphragm. This is nice for when you take a spill because the float in the carb stays open when a bike is on its side, and when the bike shuts off it will cut fuel flow so that you dont spill gas out the overflow.

    The reason for the raptor petcock is to protect yourself from when multiple things happen:
    -The diaphragm in the stock petcock gets worn and doesnt do its job
    -the o-ring in the carb is old/cracked/flattened
    -the overflow on the carb is clogged or not working.

    Those 3 things go wrong and you hydro-lock. The raptor petcock is so you manually shut the fuel down instead of relying on the diaphragm, eliminating the first thing in the line of events. BUT Leave the raptor petcock in the on position and you basically just made it so 2 things need to fail instead of 3, a worse situation.

    Sorry to write a book and take everyone to school, but i really want everyone to understand the reasoning behind the use of the raptor petcock so we can avoid the hydro-lock issue all together. Basically if you do the raptor petcock, remember to shut off your fuel every time you stop and park.

    that being said... my set up is: Stock petcock, Inline fuel filter, Inline shutoff valve. The shutoff valve being my backup to the diaphragm in the petcock.[​IMG]