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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Britmick, May 4, 2007.
The mud usually comes off easier if you wash it as soon as you get home. The sooner the better.
I always use a tire brush and just a garden hose after each ride and it comes right off. I never need to use my pressure washer on the bike.
If you let the mud dry overnight it is considerably harder to clean off.
If you keep it clean all the time it isn't such a big job either.
My bike has been muddy enough that it more than half filled a 5 gallon bucket when I cleaned up the driveway after washing it but you would never know it by looking at it.
anybody have starting issues under 50deg fahrenheit
Just be ready to grease and check, the engine mounting bolts, swing arm bolt, bearings on a regular basis, but you do that anyway right? Id avoid any direct pressure, just pressure wash from 6 or more feet away. Personally ive only needed to pressure was out dried caked on mud and still a constant stream from 6 feet away worked fine.
On another note, being as the.bike is new to you, you have pulled the swing arm rod and greased the crap out of it right...right...
Thanks for the tips guys, the mud is dried up, on top of other dried up mud, on top of ... you get the point its so thick i gotta stab it with a flat head screwdriver to get it to knock off, lol
As far as greasing, guilty as charged, havent done a thing. :huh
Nope. At altitude, 3500 ft, before jetting it took a bit of cranking. Now at 36F sea level and altitude it fires up quite easily.
Which carb, jetting, needle position and pilot are you using?
Fitted my bar risers and waterproof 12v socket today
Redneck engineering at its best! Good idea ya done got there yup.
Glad you like it, not my idea, lots of guys do it over on thumpertalk, as can be seen here.
pressure washer - twenty feet away is OK
brush n hose if you have to put your beer down, you're washing too much
remember, its a dirt bike, not a piece of ass
Im a pressure washing guy. Some say don't but if your into your annual maintenance I don't think there is a problem. The chassis lube is important though. Check your wheel bearings, swing arm, shock connections, steerer tube and fork seals annually and hose away.
make it more fun, link what he or she did here
So right after I bought my bike I started going through it and figuring out what needed to be done, fixed, or upgraded. I quickly realized that the PO had neglected to tell me a fork seal was leaking and that that fork had a gouge in it which he tried to buff out. Of course the leaking seal also took out the brake pads. So off I went to find a new set of forks, I quickly found a set on eBay for a decent price...done. So I bought some new oil/dust seals and some new springs and commenced to taking it apart. Little did I know that taking it apart and riding my 200 2 stroke would change my life for a while. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=830324 So since I was out of commission and needed to get the bike back together and out of the garage I elected to send the forks off to Cogent Dynamics with my parts for a full upgrade to include revalving. I got the forks back several weeks later and noticed that the fork boots were quite torn up and needed replacing. After searching several places I found I would be out about $80.00, not that $80.00 is a lot but I find the boots kind of ugly. Having a lot of time on my hands now I found a link over on Thumper Talk http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/751949-ktm-blade-style-fork-guards-drz400-s-or-e-model/ which talked about using hard plastic covers or blades which are similar to the same things used on USD forks. I figured what the Hell I will give those a try. So I began sourcing parts only to find out that a key component, plastic fork clamp, was no longer available but only after buying all the other pieces. I called several KTM parts guys and everyone had the same story....out of stock and will not be replenished. So I went to the secondary market, used, and found a set...again on eBay. I got the parts in and the one part I really needed which was the clamp was damaged. :eek1 I made it work and just finished getting them installed yesterday. I still can't ride but at least the bike is back operational again. Here are a few pictures of my install.
Shows the blade guide and clamp (clamp is discontinued)
Just showing how the brake line feeds up behind the blade through a hole so that it can move freely during compression and rebound.
Because the clamp is slightly too big for the fork I added a few turns of electrical tape to give the clamp something to bite on.
This shows how the brake line gets pinched between the two clamps to keep it in place
and the last picture just shows my dash configuration with GPS mount, SPOT mount, and fold away mirrors, I would like to upgrade the complete dash area with some type of rally setup someday so I can get all the crap off the bars....maybe some day!
I just want to thank my good buddy Dave, EOD3MC, who helped me get the bike back together and test the new suspension. Thanks Dave!!! The good news is because he helped me, the DRZ bug bit him and he now is the proud owner of a DRZ as well.
Any form of mechanical work on a vehicle, be it a bicycle, motorcycle, car or even a lawnmower.
"What did you do at the weekend?"
"I spent all weekend in the garage spannering, got the car running again by Sunday"
Had to look that one up.
Them strange folk that we rebelled against a few hundred years ago still don't know what a wrench should be called.
...or the trunk of a car, or the hood for that matter.
The Good News?? That's twice you've gotten me to get another bike after riding one of yours....
I'm running out of garage space....
Since most of y'all probably have a DRZ I thought I'd let you know I'm parting out my DRZ. If you're looking for something read this thread.
I'm off with 5 mates on a 5 day ride through the Australian alps. We are staying at pubs at night so don't need sleeping or cooking gear but wondering what tools i need to take. I have a fender bag, Wolfman sack on the rear rack and maybe a backpack.
It's an "E".
This is most of my kit. I did post it on the other DRZ400 thread, but couldn't find it.
Plus tubes, pump, nut & bolt assortment, short length chain + joining links (I've never needed it on the DRZ though.) short length of electrical wire, fuses to suit your set-up. Torch. A few Rags. Some riders carry a folding wood saw.
As a general guide for setting up uour kit- if you use it to prepare the bike, take it.
Apart from the head stem, front spocket and swingarm nuts, I can pull my bike apart with my kit.