Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Britmick, May 4, 2007.
Numbers is the one to talk to.... but he stroked as well.
I've found the answer by by myself, I've bought a Y2K seat from e bay and it's exactly the same as my 03.
Can you guys give me opinion on a couple of DRZ400S I'm interested in buying (New England area). Both DRZs were fairly stock.
2000 DRZ 8k miles asking $2750
Owner says PO jetted the bike
Engine Side Cover Protection
Bike appeared taken care of, though was a little dirty. Bike was cold when I arrived and hadn't been ridden in a couple months. It started up after a few tries. On the ride the bike sputtered and stumbled a lot at low RPMs and 1/4 to 1/2 throttle opening (choke didn't improve it much). At higher rpm it pulled strong and cleared up. Owner said that the bike really needs to warm up, I rode it, he rode and then I rode it again (total of maybe 20 min). It was better on my last ride, but still very noticeable. The Yoshimura muffler only had the spark arrestor... holy hell was it loud and popping on decel was tremendous :eek1
2002 DRZ 8k miles asking $3200 (said paid $2700 a couple of years ago for it, minus the muffler and jet kit)
FMF Q4 Muffler
Dyno Jet Stage 1
3x3 airbox mod
Engine Side Cover Protection
Bike appeared taken care of, was also a little dirty, new chain was loose and crusty (NOT rusty) with accumulated grime mixed with lube, missing fork boots. Bike was warm when I arrived as we met in a parking lot. Bike started right up. On the ride the bike ran well and again the exhaust was popping a bit on decel. There was a noticeable chatter felt through the bars when using the front brake, (steering stem bearings/adjustment, rotor deposits/pads).
2000 DRZ 16k miles asking $2200
Haven't seen it in person, listed on here with a TON of mods, appears to be well taken care of.
I'd pass on the all of them. I'm not an expert, but prices seem borderline outrageous for early model, ratty bikes with so many problems being sold in the dead of winter in New England. For this money, clean, later-model bikes should turn up.
Any love for a motard?
Not sure what's worse, the seat or the front tyre on dirt.
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
That's how I felt for what they were asking for the two I saw, but looking around craigslist... people in New England right now are asking a lot (I think) for these bikes. Its hard to gauge what they are really going for, since they can ask whatever they want. I don't know how reliable NADA or KBB are for these bikes?
Anyone know where these go? Theyre not broken off of anything, i swear thry fell out of the head when i turned it upside down. I cant find their home, theyre not on any schematic either...
They tend low, especially for clean/older bikes. But the prices you've been quoted aren't even in the ballpark. Again, I'm no expert, but I would think $3K should net a clean/nice-running/relatively-stock 2005 or later.
All of those bikes are too expensive but if you can buy this one for $2000 thats not too bad. It needs a carb clean and a baffle insert for the pipe.
Those are the pins from the neutral indicator. Kind of by the bottom of the motor on the left hand side (if you're sitting on the bike).
I'm trying to find a micro fiche for you but am not having any luck - I can take a picture of where they need to go when I get home if you need it.
So, they go inside the case? I found them when I took the head off...well before I split the case, or removed the side covers even.
Found an engine pic.
Check here: http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h203/sionide28/switch_zps9b7ac008.jpg
Circle indicates the switch that those pins go underneath. :)
They are magnetic - so you would have pulled that switch cover off a while ago and they wouldn't come out. You have to take a magnet to the top of them to get them to come out normally - otherwise they just sit there till you move the engine upside down or something and they fall out. Pesky little buggers.
I know what your talking about, I reintalled that already,, I didnt see anything indicating those pins go there, ill check the schematic thanks...
Any idea what schematic theyre under?
There isn't anything indicating where they go to my knowledge - just two holes for them to slip into.
The clymer manual mentions them in the "engine removal" section if I remember correctly. I can't find them in a micro fiche to save my life though. Good luck
I'll throw up a pic of how they fit when I get home if you need. Just let me know.
Ok, ill pull it off when I get home, any idea which direction they go, im guessing round nose side in, towards the engine.
The smaller part goes toward the engine - the round top is the contact for the cap that goes on top.
I dont see a place for them...
Theres only 2 holes for the bolts...
I just noticed the link in your sig - your rebuild thread in October is part of what helped me decide to get a DRZ and rebuild it (as oppose to just getting a brand new bike).
If you hadn't started your thread I probably wouldn't know jack about those pins. Funny how that works.
Really? Alright, I thought those were oil holes...
So, I put them in the holes, they just sit in there? No springs or anything? Theres no magnetic pull from the engine or the other piece...
I can't believe yours just fell out - I was holding my engine sideways and shaking it to get them out before I was told
by someone to use a magnet, then they came right out.
Anyways - hope all goes well with the rest of your build.
Edit: I think there are springs - when you put them in and depress them they should pop up a little less than a quarter inch to keep tension against the cap.