Drz400 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Britmick, May 4, 2007.

  1. bonekrusher

    bonekrusher Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2009
    Oddometer:
    58
    Location:
    UT
    Ok, so I was wrong about them having any magnetic anything holding them in place - guess mine were just stuck :lol3

    However they are spring loaded.

    http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h203/sionide28/2013-01-2120172025_zpsd0d07dc9.jpg

    Will post spring dimensions shortly - have a question about which microfiche shows these on TT, hopefully someone responds.


    Ok - they are about a half inch long (uncompressed) 11.5mm and just under 3/8ths in. (4.5mm) wide. Wish I could be more help...
  2. focallength

    focallength jefe de servicio

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2007
    Oddometer:
    8,569
    Location:
    Behind you, move over!
    Thanks, I knew there had to be springs..., that pic will help me find them.
  3. ohgood

    ohgood Just givver tha berries !!!

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2010
    Oddometer:
    5,578
    Location:
    alabama
    mmm

    Sounds like a timing chain stretched to me... I wouldn't worry about the head until the valves are needing reshimmed every oil change.
  4. bkwags

    bkwags Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2012
    Oddometer:
    115
    Location:
    Central Wisconsin
    Anyone know where I can find a coolant overflow tank for my 2001 DRZ? I hear turkey basters work, any tips on that will get me by till I find the real thing would also be helpful.

    Cheers!!
    BKWags
  5. DualSportDad

    DualSportDad Long timer

    Joined:
    May 11, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,598
    Location:
    Cape Coral, Fl.
    Use a turkey baster and don't look back. Mine has worked great for years.


    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
  6. DualSportDad

    DualSportDad Long timer

    Joined:
    May 11, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,598
    Location:
    Cape Coral, Fl.
    Nope, sounds like a tight valve. A timing chain that is stretched makes a rattle noise as idle comes down... Like when you adjust a mcct. A tight valve will tick constantly.

    I've had my can chain loosen up a couple times over the years.... Once with a acct and a couple times since the mcct and new chain. It has never sounded like that. When my valves got tight tight many years ago it sounded exactly like that. I also had the starting problems that he mentions. Bike would run fine when warm but cold I would kill my battery at times trying to get it started.


    Edit: oh and... The two main weak parts of a DRZ in my eyes are the valves and the oiling system. I don't take chances with either. I use the best oil possible and of a valve gets tight I rebuild the head. I'll only shim it once on the initial rebuild, check them at 3,000 miles and never look back. I also make sure to run very clean air filters at all times to help make sure I don't have to rebuild a head again. Its worked so far.
    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
  7. focallength

    focallength jefe de servicio

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2007
    Oddometer:
    8,569
    Location:
    Behind you, move over!
    Really? Why not just use the OE bottle?

    Got pics?
  8. DR650SEDDY

    DR650SEDDY ride2discover

    Joined:
    May 31, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,522
    Location:
    Phoenix,Az
  9. Adrian V

    Adrian V Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2008
    Oddometer:
    775
    Location:
    Albany Western Australia
    I want to get a Seat Concepts seat for my DRZ 400E, but am not sure whether to get the standard height seat, or the low seat and whether to specify standard or hard foam. I have short legs, 30" inseam and weigh about 220lbs. I want to use the bike for desert trips in Oz. I have a few questions:<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
    Is the standard height seat more comfy than the low seat? <o:p></o:p>
    I am thinking either standard height standard foam or lower with hard foam might be the go; anyone any experience or thoughts about this?
    Can I specify gripper for the sides as well? Is this a good idea?

    :earCheers, Adrian
  10. Wlfman

    Wlfman Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,294
    Location:
    TN
    A few months ago I purchased a 2004 for $2000 8600 miles, pretty much stock except bars and case savers.

  11. WayneJ

    WayneJ What?

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2010
    Oddometer:
    7,820
    Location:
    Down On The Farm
    Got a low/standard foam for my S last summer. The low seat, being wider, feels like it's about the same height as the stock seat but much more comfy. The standard foam works for me. I'm about 165lb/30" inseam.
  12. Starchamp

    Starchamp Rebel Scum

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,483
    Location:
    Out there
    What exactly do you mean by "rebuild the head"? New valves/springs/guides/seals, or actual machine work? Reason being, I've got about 9k miles on my '05 SM, and am shimming the valves for the first time. I'm going from 285s on the intake side to 280s, and from 308s on the exhaust side to 305 for the left and 300 for the right, based on my calculations. I thought about upgrading to stainless valves and new springs/retainers at this point, but not sure if I could get away with just lapping in the new valves, or if something more extensive might be needed, seat-wise. I've had no starting/idling/running issues with it so far, just trying to be a little pro-active. Thoughts?
  13. DualSportDad

    DualSportDad Long timer

    Joined:
    May 11, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,598
    Location:
    Cape Coral, Fl.
    Why are you shimming the valves, are they out of spec or are you just trying to get them into a better spot? I set mine where I want them and never touch them again. Thats why I check them after the head rebuild at 3k and then just keave them until they get tight then rebuild. And yes by rebuild replace all the parts. Honestly id just send the head out to eddie and have him order the parts / do the machine work. From what I understand there are two options. ... stock 2 piece valves with stock Springs, retainers etc. And then ron hamp 1 piece valves with aftermarket spribgs etc.

    The seat needs to be machined cause the valves have a coating on them. You can't lap the valves or you'll take that coating off.

    If it were me is do one piece valves on a supermoto and 2 piece on a of road bike. The 2 piece are not as expensive and I hope that the sand will wear them out before a weld breaks. On a street used bike id assume the valves would last much longer snd id be afraid the valve could come apart at some point.

    Sent from my Galaxy Note 2 using tapatalk 2
  14. focallength

    focallength jefe de servicio

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2007
    Oddometer:
    8,569
    Location:
    Behind you, move over!
    getsome kibble whites and ditch the 2 piece stock valves...$30 ish a piece and theyll last forever, you can use the stock springs, but for $100 you can get a kibblewhite spring set. $220 gets you a bomb proof head, set it and forget it.
  15. Starchamp

    Starchamp Rebel Scum

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,483
    Location:
    Out there
    The valves are within spec, but on the tight side. I'm looking at replacing the enire valvetrain with a Kibblewhite stainless valve/spring/Ti retainer set, which I imagine (hope) can just be lapped to the seat (shouldn't be any funky coating on the stainless, right?). Though it's an SM, it sees a lot more dirt that tarmack, so I like the added reliability of the one-piece valves. Guess I'll start shopping! Thanks!
  16. savedzrex

    savedzrex Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2013
    Oddometer:
    30
    Location:
    was Ft. Lauderdale, now Tallahassee
    Nice pic & video........ looks like a good time!
    Thanks for sharing:D

  17. Jvs

    Jvs n00b

    Joined:
    Nov 14, 2012
    Oddometer:
    6
    Safe to say I won't be riding anytime soon

    [​IMG]
  18. focallength

    focallength jefe de servicio

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2007
    Oddometer:
    8,569
    Location:
    Behind you, move over!
    why? no rain or snow forecasted...
  19. DualSportDad

    DualSportDad Long timer

    Joined:
    May 11, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,598
    Location:
    Cape Coral, Fl.
    I was under the impression that the kibble whites didnt last long at all and tjat people have had a lot of priblems with the valve Springs. I think ron hamp uses ferra valves and then adds the coating to them like suzuki does.

    Edit: Here's my thread from when I rebuikt my head. I pretty much asked everything that is needed to know. My gosh I was such a noob. www.thumpertalk.com/topic/643778-valve-replacement-cost/

    Sent from my Galaxy Note 2 using tapatalk 2
  20. Vulfy

    Vulfy Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2012
    Oddometer:
    576
    Location:
    NYC
    Hey all. My DRZ all of a sudden developed a real bad surging when the throttle is open about 1/3. Bike behaves like it is running out of fuel. If I open throttle more, surging goes away, but bike feels under-powered, even when I completely open up the throttle.

    Here are a few things that happened prior to this.

    1. Cold weather. I've never ran this DRZ in cold weather yet (got it just this fall). This might be the culprit, but how to fix it for cold weather, if its so?

    2. Diluted gas with Sea Foam. I've been using Sea Foam on all my bikes without any problems. However DRZ is my first thumper. A friend of mine used to have a 125cc MZ Super Moto, and he experienced the same problem when we added a little bit of Sea Foam to his tank. After next refueling, without adding more Sea Foam, his bike was behaving normal, without any surging. I still have a good amount of gas in the tank, so did not refuel yet.

    3. A week earlier, I left the fuel switch in the "primer" position, and rode the bike for a while like that. I then proceeded to turn the bike off and left it for a few hours, not running. After I came back, the bike wouldn't start. I completely depleted the battery, trying to start it.

    At that point I noticed the fuel switch, and twisted it back to "ON" position. (There is no "OFF", only "ON" and "Prime")

    I left my bike at my parent's house, took out the battery and re-charged it at home. Bike sat like that for a whole week.
    After re-installing the battery, bike did start up, but after that it started to surge.

    4. I have a feeling that it has to do with the carburetor, but its clean, as the bike been in the shop only recently, and the carburetor has been cleaned.

    5. Could it be a fouled up spark plug?

    Please keep in mind that I don't have a lot of experience, maintaining bikes, nor do I have space to take it apart. (I live in the apartment, and nobody that I know has an available garage for tinkering).

    I usually take my bikes to the shop for maintenance, for any repairs needed. However with constant abuse I put on my bikes, the small repairs like these start to pile up and so do the costs.

    I'd like to avoid taking it to the shop for this, and try to fix the problem myself. Of course, having limited knowledge, tools, and most importantly space where to work on the bike, I can only do so much, before I'm forced to take it to the shop.