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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Britmick, May 4, 2007.
I'm saying that if the valves have come so far our of adjustment that you ate having starting problems that you are to late... plain and simple. I have not heard a single person post up yet that they have had the v valves tighten up to the point where the bike was hard to start and adjusting the valves was the fix.
I have been through this myself , I adjusted only to need to adjust again after one ride.
From what the owner said he had limited experience working on bikes and he might have to take it in and pay to have it repaired. From what I also understood it was his daily driver. So I take it his only option was to learn how to adjust his own valves...which could take a novice more than a weekend. I'm sure he also doesnt want to pay to have the job done twice. I've said it before and I'll repeat myself again... If it were my bike I'd rebuild the head.
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I said I'm probably going to get someone to switch the cam chain and do the valve adjust at the same time for one thing, because I don't have a clutch basket tool, not because I think it's above my abilities! I'm sure It wouldn't take me the whole weekend to adjust my valves!
Thanks for the advice, do you have any spare parts to donate to my cause?
sidestand that is? Just picked up a new to me DR Z400E and the side stand seems way too short. I did the search thing here and on Google and did not find the answer. I realize that when you lower one of these bikes you will need a shorter stand, but this stand is suppose to be stock. Thanks in advance for the help.
E/S should be about 9.75" from lower spring catch to the foot; SM is about 9".
Sorry in all the hoopla I forgot who originally posted in the first place.
When I took mine apart I used a impact gun to get the clutch basket nut off. Beer careful when putting there basket back on not to damage the plastic oil pump gear. Honestly I'd change that gear while in there to for peace of mind.
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I had this horrible loud noise coming from the engines top at exactly 6k+ RMPS and 63-66MPH, it started recently and was driving me nuts, i checked all sorts of things to make sure stuff was not loose, all was good,
Today i instaled the ThumperTalk MCCT and then took it for a spin, I WAS SO DAMN HAPPY THAT THE NOISE WAS NOW... GONE!!
It was always there before, i would have to rev up or let off the throttle to make it go away, any faster then 66mph it would go away, and any slower then 63mph it would go away, but right between 63-66 it sounded like a screaming 2 stroke in the head, the bike would always run great, but that noise was really starting to worry me alot.
Really glad i put this thing on, noise is gone, and all is great.
old and new
and on the bike, took about a hour+, not bad, was my first time opening up the head
Really glad that loud clatter/screeching noise is now completely gone, bike runs great, just out of curiosity, what does this plug look like to you inmates?
If you have not done the MCCT yet, look into it, the stockers spring is very strong imo, glad i finally did this.
Looks upside down, kinda silver with some white on the end. hehe
I'd run it. Perhaps slightly lean, but not enough to worry about, IMO.
Cool just checkin'!
Not sure on how far mine is Eddie set it and I haven't touched it. Plus with the spacer the chain will be tight to begin with.
Hard starting is a standard symptom of out of spec valves. Get them in spec then check them often. I check mine every 1-2k miles. I record the number then just watch them. If they move after the first adjustment it's usually downhill. If not no worries. With it that far out you might want to check it every 500 miles for awhile. Or tear it down its personal choice/comfort.
No not sarcastic.. when I had my DRZ ,I spent too much time on thumpertalk.. it was a new bike to me and after a while I felt that the bike was going to explode on me in no time if I didnt do all the things that some people on there said "must be done". I then made a joke and received a warning from one of the "cocks"
I love the DRZ... its a great bike, and I know of many of the guys here who have just run them with nil of the must do's and guess what... sweet FA has happened
Reading some of that stuff will kinda freak you out a little. Its worth doing the lock tight fixes... I've had a few friends bikes have the stator bolts back out and one a starter clutch bolt broke off amend destroyed everything on the left side of the engine. Lucky for him he was still in warranty and he didn't ride the bike much at all so it was no big deal not to have it for a couple months while the dealer repaired it.
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I'm trying to be proactive and looking to replace the float valve assembly since it has been running on E10 fuel for the last 5 years. I don't want to pay Suzuki's price so after a little searching on the web I've found several other machines that use the BSR36 carburetor. Yamaha's Raptor and Grizzly to name two. Bike Bandit has part #1800883 needle/seat assembly for $19.99 as opposed to Suzuki's part at $56.17. Has anyone tried this yet or should I be the lab rat?
If the bike isn't making any funny sounds, the just run it. I'm closing in on my 6000 mile mark with no problems at all. I'm sure that the cam chain might need to be replaced at 15 or 20 thousand miles, but I'm not touching it till I hear it rattling.
The DRZ is a driver bike with very little to fix. Some folks have had the carb gumming up because of old gas. Other then that, it is one tuff cookie !!!
From jeathrow Bowdean
I hear that. I believe to many folks create their own problems with the never ending additions and quest for better performance. Given my DRZ is a newer model, 2011, I just change the oil, add fuel and ride the hell out of it............
At that price its worth the risk as long as its returnable if unopened.
Maybe pull your carb and compare the parts (with some magnification if possible) if it looks identical then PLEASE be the lab rat
Worst thing might be another carb pull and replace the original parts for the time being.
Anywho at least if you pull the current parts and take a careful look you will get an idea of their condition. So its just a matter of how much time you can afford to spend going through the process and whether you can justify the money or the time or the Susuki stuff.
Keep us posted please
If it ain't broke....
Mines been running on E blended fuel for 11 years. Nothing wrong with it.
Hey guys, first time poster here, was looking for some help with my new purchase...recently brought home an 03 klx 400r. When i went to look at bike, owner started it up no problems with a cold engine, then again a couple times afterwards, no issues. I brought it home in a truck, and went to start it, would crank and crank but just wont seem to catch. I replaced the battery cause it was on its last leg, replaced the spark plug(original was gas fouled when i pulled it out), checked the kill switch, and filled the tank....no change. Doing some more research i checked the clutch safety switch and kickstand switch and those mods were already done, need to verify that the connections are good, but i figure they must be decent if the bike was just running.
The first time after bringing it home i was able to get it to start firing right before it ran outta gas(got 3-4 blips out of the exhaust before it died). At this point i know im getting gas to the carb, havent pulled that apart yet, and i know the ignition system is working. Have not checked compression with a gauge, but seems to be fine, enough to blow finger off hole. Aside from ripping the carb apart to verify thats ok what else can/should i be looking at....im at a complete loss of where to go now besides digging into the carb or valves, and being as that is just was running,cant see the valves getting out of adjustment from the truck ride. Any advice would be greatly appreciated...
WELCOME to the asylum XJHero, sounds like a fuel restriction issue. May be junk in the jets in the carb. Is there a filter in-line that may be clogged? Is the tank clean inside? Maybe pull the petcock and see if the inlet screen is clogged, restricting fuel flow. Check choke assembly to ensure the choke is working properly. Check fuel supply hose(s) from tank to carb for obstruction. Try spraying a little starter fluid in the carb while trying to start. If it fires with an external fuel supply then definitely is a fuel delivery issue. 10 to 1 I suspect clogged jets, especially if it has been siting for a while.
Option 2: check to ensure your engine cut off switch (kill switch) is in the proper position and in working order. You may have to disconnect it and/or straight wire together to eliminate the switch as the problem.
I had this happen to me before, bad switch, and it drove me crazy trying to track down.
Good luck, keep us posted...............
Thanks for the response MotoBoss. A fuel issue does seem like it could be a problem, maybe even a flooding issue. I know i flooded it the first time i tried starting it by checking the plug(fuel fouled). Smelled gas as well. I cant check my oil for fuel contamination cause the fill was tightened by hercules and i cant get it off without some heat/serious force.
Theres no in line filter, so could be junk in tank/line/carb. Should i try starting with the fuel/tank? I have gotten bad gas before, had similar issues on bikes/cars with that problem, so ill prob pop the petcock off, drain the tank and refill with a different brand. I heard trying to drain the carb bowl will tell me if the carbs getting fuel, just not sure which screw it is. If it is clogged jets, how would i go about cleaning them? Need to remove or can i use carb cleaner with them in the carb still?
I did check that kill switch. I should also mention, its an R version, but it is plated with all the street legal stuff, horn, blinkers, etc, and i have a light switch that powers the ignition,(wont turn over unless this is on, not sure if all models had this switch on the leftside or if its aftermarket), as well as an ignition, and a pull in type kill switch(pull in the make contact and kill ignition, let go and contacts are spaced. I didnt put a meter to the kill switch, but it seems all good, no corrosion or anything to suspect a fault. Im still fairly new with electrical work so I cant say for sure its good. I also have a red push in button for high and low beams, and i heard on another forum that button needed to be in a certain position, but what that was i never got clarified. Any more info?
Again, thanks for the help.
Silly question perhaps, but are you using the choke?