Dual Sport Trailer assembly thread

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by The Cheat, Jan 13, 2006.

  1. DakarNick

    DakarNick Swabee

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    Axle is hollow but has two huge aluminum nuts. The nuts could probably be drilled out but I don't want to weaken them.
  2. oPAULo

    oPAULo jack of all terrain

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    Didn't do much today. Got the bolt size for through the axle and got a bushing figured out so the trailer won't pull where the threads of the bolt are.
  3. oPAULo

    oPAULo jack of all terrain

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    Does it have axle blocks? I saw some extended axle blocks somewhere.
  4. ben2go

    ben2go Moto Flunky

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    Trailer turned out better than I imagined.

    I resemble that remark except mine are brass. :D
  5. DakarNick

    DakarNick Swabee

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    Yes, it does have blocks. Sorry, I've been thinking about the front wheel so much I told you it has two nuts!

    The rear actually has one nut. One side has the axle connected to the axle block. The other goes through the block to the nut. I'll look at it more tonight and try to figure something out.
  6. oPAULo

    oPAULo jack of all terrain

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    Nothing new. Put a few more miles on it. Might take it apart for paint this weekend.
    [​IMG]
  7. Eddieb

    Eddieb www.AdventureRidingNZ.co.nz

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    Keen to see some close up pics of how you did the mountings on the axle.
  8. DakarNick

    DakarNick Swabee

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    I got it! I didn't look very thoroughly to begin with, so I looked more tonight. The 950 swingarm has a threaded "standoff" parallel to the axle on the bottom of the arm. One on each side. Beefy enough to hold a trailer I'm hoping! Thread is 10mm.

    Pic tomorrow.
  9. oPAULo

    oPAULo jack of all terrain

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    Got the new 7/16 X 12 bolt and got the skewer figured out.
    Here it is assembled. The carabiner locks it from coming apart. The bushing at the right end is a slip fit inside the axle and over the threaded end to protect the threads of the skewer.
    [​IMG]

    There is a rod welded to the nut and captured by the pins to keep it from turning.
    [​IMG]

    Here you can see the bushing has a flange on it to keep it at the threaded end. The trailer pulls on this instead of the threads. This is why I couldn't just weld the nut to the trailer.
    [​IMG]

    Then the wife and I tested it some more. Gravel, some trail and interstate. It's still awesome!!
    [​IMG]
  10. Mr. Fisherman

    Mr. Fisherman PROUD 2B Riff Raff!

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    Great problem solving ideas... loving it.
  11. DakarNick

    DakarNick Swabee

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    Looks great, Paul! Here is my progress so far. Like I said a few posts ago, I "found" two 10mm x 1.50 threaded "lugs" cast into the bottom of the swingarm.

    Like so...
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I then drew up the mounting plates. The plates will be bolted to the swingarm with two 45mm long bolts through a spacer and two PTFE-impregnated bronze flange bushings. I'll show that when I get them. Everything except the yellow cardboard mockup is on paper.

    The parts in yellow will pivot in the vertical direction. The yellow "spacer" at the back will be where the horizontal "axle" will be. Somewhat like a bicycle head tube. That's on paper, too. But one thing at a time.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Everything will be steel for now. For a few reasons. One, I have some 1" tube and 1/2" tube already in the garage. Two, I can weld steel with my mig welder but have no experience with a Tig so... I'll work with what I have for the time being. I've spent $22 on bushings. I hope to build the trailer for less than $100. Most of the cost will be in a tire and shock.

    More pics as I progress.
  12. oPAULo

    oPAULo jack of all terrain

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    AWESOME!:clap
    That lug cast into the swingarm looks a little small and weak but maybe it's bigger in person.
    Isn't your axle hollow? You could get a locking nut to fit with a hole through it.
  13. DakarNick

    DakarNick Swabee

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    Thanks!

    Yeah, it's 10mm. Little smaller than I'd like. I may look for another way to do it.

    The axle is hollow but only nutted on one side. The chain side is held in position with the chain tensioner.
  14. duanew1

    duanew1 In my Pajama pants

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    Mr Bracket has some solutions on this page.

    http://www.moto-mule.com/hitching.html
  15. oPAULo

    oPAULo jack of all terrain

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    That's a $398.36 KTM nut!! You don't drill those....:nah


    :lol3
  16. DakarNick

    DakarNick Swabee

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    If there were two nuts, I would drill them. Since there is only one nut, I would need to drill it out to the same inside diameter of the axle, because the other side is open (nutless) and the axle tube is like 40mm or something.

    I have tried to get in touch with Mr. Bracket but no responses yet.

    The lugs on the swingarm are for crash pegs and rear wheel stands, I learned.
  17. DakarNick

    DakarNick Swabee

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    Ha, "only" $10.

    Good news! I took the nut off to measure the inside axle diameter. 11/16". Grind the top of the nut off and I'll go from there, I figured.

    Digging in my scrap steel bucket I find an 11/16" OD tube that fits PERFECTLY inside the axle. Now, to just figure out how to put some bushings on it and adapt it.
  18. MrBracket

    MrBracket Been here awhile

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    Hey DakarNick,
    I simply buy the standard KTM nuts and machine the end off in a lathe. You could just sand the capped end off of yours.

    Looks great!
  19. DakarNick

    DakarNick Swabee

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    Thanks! I am redesigning for the axle mount. I ground the top of the nut off and have some bushings on order from McMaster-Carr.

    I'm trying to build slowly since I probably won't have it done before the snow flies and it will make a good winter project but it's so fun to build.
  20. DakarNick

    DakarNick Swabee

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    Hi guys. Here's an update.

    I made some brackets for the axle. I'll probably run 1/2" tube where the balsa strips are. The cut in the steel is so I could bend the ends of the V-shaped bracket toward the wheel. I'll then weld the "crack" and the other joint. The balsa also helped me bend the metal just enough to maintain wheel clearance.

    [​IMG]

    I had to adapt the trailer axle to my bike axle. The bike axle is 11/16" ID. I found a tube that was 11/16" OD and 9/16" ID. But it wasn't long enough so I decided to run all-thread as the actual axle. The tube is just a reducer. I'm running two 9/16" OD x 7/16" ID bronze bushings inside the tube and then using a 7/16" all thread as the live axle.

    Here is a pic showing an "exploded" view of how it all stacks together.

    The nut will be replaced with a nylock nut. The bike's axle doesn't sit flush with the large axle nut, so the two zinc washers bring it flush and prevent any rubbing. The bronze washer will be drilled out to 7/16" and sit opposite the flange on the outside of the bushing. This will allow the threaded adapter (once cut down) to sit between the flange and the washer on top bushing.

    [​IMG]

    This is an assembled view. Like I said, the nut will be a nylock, and the zinc washer is taking the place of the bronze washer that I need to drill out. The cut down threaded adapter will sit in this "channel". The bracket will be drilled and the threaded adapter will be welded in this hole. Both V-brackets will then be able to rotate freely on the bushings.

    [​IMG]