Early Honda Trail 90 build

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by 4doora, Aug 9, 2013.

  1. 4doora

    4doora Moped guy

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2013
    Oddometer:
    29
    Location:
    NH
    Hey everyone. My name is RJ. I signed up on this forum not too long ago looking for info on Honda ct90s. After seeing a lot of builds (and spending hours reading the postman's story), I got determined to build one for myself.


    One of the reasons I decided to build one is I have a 140cc lifan motor that I bought new not too long ago. It's currently attached to this bike.


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    It started life as a PUCH magnum. 50cc two stroke moped. It was a fun build, but it's not a very practical bike. The grey area of registration (moped v. motorcycle & inspection) has always been a concern as well. Not to mention the moped community hates 4 strokes :rofl. The engine is just too heavy for it. I'm probably going to convert it back into a moped after I rob the engine off of it.

    Just yesterday I purchased a lot of CT90s from a craigslist ad.
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    One of the rollers is a ct90 with a bottom end to the motor, the other roller is a ct200, and theres another ct200 frame cut in two.
    From what I've read on this great forum, the lifan should bolt right up to the ct200, so that's what I'm going to use.
    (please excuse the shitty ipod pictures)

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    I just started tearing into it tonight. Not I'm not so sure which direction I'm going to go... either give her a new shiney coat of paint, or try to bring the original stuff back to life again. Any input is appreciated, as I'm one of the most indecisive people around.
    #1
  2. 4doora

    4doora Moped guy

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2013
    Oddometer:
    29
    Location:
    NH
    Well, I got her all torn apart all over my garage. I discovered somewhere down the line someone welded the top and bottom of the forks together, so out came the grinder and I separated them. luckily there was a spare shell of a former set of forks on the half bike I got in the deal. They were straight, so I robbed the guts from the junk forks and built myself a decent pair. The past weekend has been filled with cleaning and sanding of all sorts of parts.

    Forks cleaned and primed:
    [​IMG]

    Frame cleaned/ primed:
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    After the first few coats of Rustoleum apple red. It's a great match for the original red.
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    And here she sits tonight. I polished the aluminum bits on my buffing wheel to give them a bit of sheen. I can't resist polishing aluminum, it cleans up so nicely.

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    You can see my '78 Honda Hobbit in the background of this pic. I just got her forks and front wheel all fixed up from an accident last week.
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    #2
  3. Kennon

    Kennon Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2011
    Oddometer:
    323
    Location:
    Oxford, NT Hong Kong, Moscow
    This will be a good build, well done sir
    #3
  4. 4doora

    4doora Moped guy

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2013
    Oddometer:
    29
    Location:
    NH
    Thanks kennon!

    Here she sits tonight. I got the wheels all cleaned up as best I could and got the brakes all freed up. Also got the front fender painted and fitted along with the front mudflap.

    The tank/seat are off the '68 ct90. The inside of the tank is absolutely spotless, and the original paint on the outside isn't so bad. I'm debating on painting it or just leaving it original. It's a bit more orange than the rest of the bike though.


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    I also placed an order for some odds and ends on ebay from a shop in Thailand... shipping was almost as much as the parts cost, and it's probably going to take about a month, but there's not many other options :dunno
    #4
  5. Kennon

    Kennon Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2011
    Oddometer:
    323
    Location:
    Oxford, NT Hong Kong, Moscow
    Perhaps try abit of T-cut and polishing up to try and bring the faded red up to a reasonable standard with the rest of the bike.
    #5
  6. The Bigfella

    The Bigfella Big Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2010
    Oddometer:
    2,517
    Location:
    One of the Burj's
    Got a link to the Thai shop by any chance?
    #6
  7. 4doora

    4doora Moped guy

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2013
    Oddometer:
    29
    Location:
    NH
    Just an ebay shop:
    http://stores.ebay.com/otto-classicbike?_trksid=p2047675.l2563
    They're one of the few places I could find the headlight surround, so I ordered some other parts from there as well. I can't yet say how apt I would be to recommend them.


    I've also dealt with this store in the past on an order for my Honda Passport c70, and was pleased with my purchase. The mirrors I ordered were very good quality, and only cost me about $15 plus shipping.
    #7
  8. 4doora

    4doora Moped guy

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2013
    Oddometer:
    29
    Location:
    NH
    Got the motor bolted up!

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    It took a bit of work with the grinder to get the clearance to fit, but the bolt holes lined up nicely after that.
    #8
  9. Dirt Road Cowboy

    Dirt Road Cowboy Sometimes I'm A Jerk

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    505
    Location:
    Tyler, Texas
    Looking good. I'm doing the same build, even down to the high $$$ Rustoleum Apple Red paint job! :lol3

    Here's my report:

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=909247

    I didn't get any complete bikes for my build though. People here can't tell garbage from gold. They're asking $2k for bikes that are in the condition yours started off in.

    Mine is being Frankenbiked together out of a pile of misc. bike parts that I've assembled over the years.

    And, yes, the Thai bike shops take a lot longer than the Chinese ones!

    .
    #9
  10. 4doora

    4doora Moped guy

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2013
    Oddometer:
    29
    Location:
    NH
    I hear ya man. It took me a bit of searching to find anything worthwhile. Everyone seems to have the mindset that a ct90 in decent shape just under a grand is a "a bargain". I managed to pick up the lot of bikes for $225. Whatever I have left over I'll probably sell for parts. I'm sure someone out there could use a nice frame and bottom end. The half bike I'm going to hang onto for a chopper project in the distant future.



    Anywho, last week I managed to piece together an exhaust. The header on the stock honda pipe was banged up, and the flange isn't right for the lifan anyways; so I cut it up along with the pit bike exhaust and made a decent pipe. After a coat of BBQ paint on the pipe, and gloss black on the guards, here's how it looks:


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    I also got the rack painted and mounted, along with some grip tape to dress it up a little.


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    Amazing how much the look of the bike changes with just the signature ct90 exhaust and rear rack mounted up.


    Since I didn't have any brake levers or good controls I decided to try out a set of cheapo chinese honda-style controls off ebay. The quality of the metal isn't the greatest; I had half of one of the original honda levers and it was still heavier than one of the cheap levers. For 25 bucks, I can't complain.

    I didn't need the directional switch so i took it out.

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    And I'm not sure why there's both a 3 position light switch on the right and a hi-lo switch on the left. Oh well, they're shiny.

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    While I wait on parts I guess I'll start on wiring:bore
    I think I'm going to wire it up to run without a battery like I did with the magnum, not certain yet.
    #10
  11. Dirt Road Cowboy

    Dirt Road Cowboy Sometimes I'm A Jerk

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    505
    Location:
    Tyler, Texas
    :lol3 I got the same kind of Chinese controls, but mine has a red button on the right side. I'm going to wire it up as a kill button.

    I'm keeping the turn signals too. I know they aren't required, but maybe they will help cagers to be able to "see" me in traffic. Most of the drivers around here wouldn't know a hand signal from the ADV salute! :rofl

    Good job on your build! :clap
    I like the exhaust. I picked up a Chinese cheapo CT70 pipe on ebay for $50 that I'll need to make fit.

    The wiring shouldn't be much of a problem, since you had it wired once before.

    :freaky

    .
    #11
  12. orangebear

    orangebear Long timer

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    Aug 12, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,295
    Location:
    dumfrie scotland
    I would run a battery as the lights will stay brighter when on the go,.
    #12
  13. dbarale

    dbarale Squiddly slow

    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,338
    Location:
    Western NC
    I like to wire the turn signal button as a kill switch. Middle is on, both right and left are off. Makes a cool anti-theft device....
    #13
  14. tuna101

    tuna101 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2012
    Oddometer:
    248
    Location:
    Joshua Tree,Ca.
    Watching this over on the Yuku site.
    #14
  15. billfires

    billfires Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2008
    Oddometer:
    47
    Location:
    SE Mass
    Is the middle position on the right side switch for "parking" lights? I know that Honda use to have a position for just the tail light to stay on. Bill C
    #15
  16. Salsa

    Salsa Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 12, 2006
    Oddometer:
    435
    Location:
    Arizona, Alaska, Kalifornia
    Nobody has objected to my 4 stroke Moped.

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    Here are my 2 CT200's.

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    Don
    #16
  17. YamaGeek

    YamaGeek Ancient trailbike padwan

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2007
    Oddometer:
    6,640
    Location:
    western oregon
    Depending on the clone engine, wiring the headlight to the battery isn't always a great idea if the alternator has a circuit for AC power to the headlight.

    This is because the electric start engines tend to have a more powerful alternator to handle keeping the battery topped up, which would be my choice for an engine powering a battery powered headlight.

    I've found both of my clone engined bikes,. ( both are not E-start..) keep the battery in a happier state of charge with the headlight on the separate AC lighting circuit. Most honda clone regulators have a voltage regulator ( usually integral with the battery regulator.) on the AC side, for the headlight.

    It does mean you have to wire your headlight to constantly on, or chose a separate switch arangement that isolates the lighting AC from the battery's DC current.

    Good luck on your build, I wish that these engines had been available back in the '70's when I owned a pristine old CT200, the extra thrust would have made the commute a lot more fun. That being said, those old ironhead OHV 90's were very good engines, and could withstand running for hours with the throttle near pinned.

    Change your oil often.
    #17
  18. 4doora

    4doora Moped guy

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2013
    Oddometer:
    29
    Location:
    NH
    I've been pretty busy lately with other things, but I've managed to find a bit of time for the bike.
    I got her running, and I had some issues with the exhaust smoking really bad. After taking the head off and replacing the valve seals, the exhaust smoke was gone. I also replaced the junk clone carb with a genuine mikuni vm26 and she's running better than ever.
    I also had an issue with the engine knocking. It turns out the 'centrifugal oil filter' was loose. easy fix:D

    Last week I got my parts from across the globe. Here's a couple of pictures.
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    The color of the headlight surround is a bit off. Might paint it, might not.

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    Here you can see the bracket I made for the oil cooler, along with my new carburetor. Praise mikuni!:clap

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    I just need to wire everything up and work out a few things, and she'll be ready for a plate and an ohrv sticker!
    #18
  19. Dirt Road Cowboy

    Dirt Road Cowboy Sometimes I'm A Jerk

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    505
    Location:
    Tyler, Texas
    Looking good. Are you going to run a battery?

    I know what you mean about being busy!
    Wife's brakes...
    Daughter's car...
    Oil pan seal leaking on my car...
    Other bike work...
    Plus, the job!

    I really need to get back to work on mine before the fall riding season.
    #19
  20. 4doora

    4doora Moped guy

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2013
    Oddometer:
    29
    Location:
    NH
    I'm thinking I'll wire it up without a battery like I had it on the magnum. If I find my lights aren't bright enough, I can always throw a battery in it later.
    #20