easier tire changes - milling stock rims or replacing?

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by jimmy2020, Jul 12, 2006.

  1. Nillbymouth

    Nillbymouth Been here awhile

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    Thanks for all the responses.

    First of all ,to answer the safety issue, Yes, I use two straps to tie each side of the centre stand to the front wheel.

    Woody grinding the bead. Great idea except I'm in Scotland. Regardless off the shipping costs, I'd be without my bike for quite a while. As Woody says, the bead is that large for a reason so I'd rather perfect getting the tyre off the rim as it is rather than reduce the safety of the rim - having the option of riding the last 40 miles home instead of fixing a puncture on the road does appeal to me. It has been suggested in this thread that pre 2005.5 bikes have a larger bead. My bike is an 04.

    I've tried using WD40 but maybe not correctly. I would place the wheel under the sidestand and where the stand is pressing down on the tyre I'd squirt some WD40 between the rim and tyre. Maybe it cannot penetrate between the tyre and bead. Maybe I should try and squirt some in using a tyre lever before putting the wheel under the stand. That way it should get between the tyre and bead. I'll try again in the next couple of days and report back.
    #41
  2. ktmnate

    ktmnate Long timer

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    I have tried the wd-40 while doing all the other things (side stand and bead breaker) and it still didn't work! I don't think you are doing anything wrong with the WD. It's just one tough bead to break.


    Nate
    #42
  3. woody's wheel works

    woody's wheel works Built to Last

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    nillbymouth,,,i've shared with you and everyone what,where, how and why we modify those rims,,,,

    remember the whole point of this conversation is coming up with a BETTER way.... a win win scenario where we maximize the benefits of that big safety bead AND minimize our chances of getting a heart attack or tire dimount rage

    ya don't have to send em to me,,,do it yourself

    the quickest way we use is with an air powered angle grinder sporting a coarse/brown Scotch-brite pad to get the majority of the material off and give it a good shape,,,we follow up with the red/medium grit disc for a nice smooth finish

    how ya get the material off depends on your resources,,a plain old file and elbow grease always works in a pinch,,,cave men used stones:evil

    i'll get some pics hopefully today
    #43
  4. k7

    k7 Ancien cyclist

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    True story .... years ago, I used to do the Mojave Trail yearly - sometimes twice a year. I've done that trip on the motorcycle, a Land Rover Discovery and a Land Rover Series III.

    One year, my buddy and I had a couple of Brazilian cuties with us. I married one of the cuties btw. This is about a 2.5 days trip w/ 2 nights on the trail and due to the women, we decided to rig up a shower that was fastened to the top of my roof rack on one side of the truck.

    The girls knew we'd have a shower and ... a shower curtain. We got them busy doing something else while we rigged up the shower. The frame for the curtain was a simple pvc frame - nothing fancy. The bottom of the shower was the lid from a container. The shower curtain was clear, see-through plastic. :clap

    We got it set up, got our chairs set up facing it and then called them around to see our creation. You should have seen their faces when they saw the clear shower curtain. :lol3

    Of course, we did swap it for one that wasn't see-through but the look on their face was worth every penny for the extra curtain. :lol3
    #44
  5. ktmnate

    ktmnate Long timer

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    Now that's a great story! Thanks.


    About the wheel. I ground down some of the bead holder (~8") and will be testing it out shortly. I will post with the results. Once I have the bead broken, the tire is just like any other tire.


    Nate
    #45
  6. k7

    k7 Ancien cyclist

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    Post pics of your works also....thanks!
    #46
  7. Conner

    Conner Charlie Ringo

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    Only had one flat in 250K miles, but that was enough to convince me to go tubeless. Woody (Chris actually) built me a Sun rimmed rear wheel. Kept the tube up front, stayed with stock sizes. A true work of art.


    Conner in Sacramento
    #47
  8. MookieBlaylock

    MookieBlaylock Long timer

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    anyone know what this is or where to get it



    [​IMG]
    #48
  9. YOGOI

    YOGOI Prick

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    #49
  10. Jabberwocky

    Jabberwocky 950 Adventurer

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    Hmmmnnnn - I'm a bit puzzled.

    It must be easier to break the bead opposite the valve, then lever the tyre over the rim at the valve - because the tyre will drop futher into the rim well opposite the valve. The other way around, surely the valve area on the tube will stop the tyre going as deep into the well.

    Now I'm confused after writing that - am I right or not?

    If I'm right, it'd be better to mod the rim opposite the valve, wouldn't it?

    Or, have I got this all mixed-up?
    #50
  11. Misery Goat

    Misery Goat Positating the negative Super Moderator

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    i have a limited frame of reference but i don't see the difficulty in changing 950 tires. :dunno

    i pinched a tube the last time i did my rear but i was in a hurry and not paying attention.

    what tires are people changing prior to the 950 that leads them to think the task is so difficult?
    #51
  12. LKN4DRT

    LKN4DRT Mended

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    #52
  13. ktmnate

    ktmnate Long timer

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    I did mine opposite the valve stem. I can still remember where it is.


    Nate

    ps -just about two weeks out before I test mine out. and Yes, I will post results and pix.
    #53
  14. woody's wheel works

    woody's wheel works Built to Last

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    it does NOT matter where you modify the rim,,,as long as YOU know where ya did it or where it was modified.....the point is to first break the bead ,,then ya push down and bust the bead the remainder of the way,,,,

    it DOES matter where ya start to spoon the tire off the rim,,,,in the case of the LC-4s and 8s without rim locks,,the better choice is to start spoonoing it at the valve stem,,,cuz like ya noticed,,,the place that will give your tire the most slack will be opposite the valve stem
    #54
  15. Nillbymouth

    Nillbymouth Been here awhile

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    Well, I said I'd report back after trying various things, and I'm glad to say that tyre changes are no longer a problem!:clap

    No matter how much I tried, and soaking the thing in WD40, there was no way that the bead was going to break using the sidestand. To initially break the bead it took 4 (yes, Four) G-Clamps.

    Tyre off, my first surprise was that the bead was only 2.2mm high! I was expecting at least 3 times that! Used a bench grinder to reduce the bead to about 1mm on each side for a length of about 5inch.

    After refitting, I still couldn't get it to break the bead with the sidestand although it only took 2 G-Clamps this time - I probably could have managed with 1 but couldn't be bothered struggling too much. I didn't want to remove the bead altogether unless I really had to, so refitted the tyre and decided to try again later.

    By this time I'd run out of WD40 so tried Washing Up liquid instead. Using sidestand, POP!, immediately broke the bead, easily. I guess washing up liquid is much more slippery.

    I know Washing Up liquid is not the best of things for alloy but this is for emergencies only and will, hopefully, only be used once every few years.
    #55
  16. kitjv

    kitjv "Old Guys Rule"!

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    I know that folks have had varying experiences with breaking the bead, but I found that RuGlide tire lubricant (purchased from Napa stores)enabled me to break the bead using a Bead Popper (i.e. plastic chisel) & a couple of whacks with a hammer. After removing the valve stem, I gently pryed the edge of the tire from the rim & brushed RuGlyde into the gap. I did this all around the rim. Maybe I just have good Karma, but breaking the bead was simple.
    #56
  17. Brucasso

    Brucasso Been here awhile

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    I did the Woody recomendation and ground about 8 inches by the valve stem, 4 in. each side this past weekend. I'm wondering if WD 40 has some properties that after awhile cause the tire to gum up and stick to the rim. I cleaned a a crap load of sticky rubber off the inside wall of the rim with some acetone.

    Just a thought..
    #57
  18. ktmnate

    ktmnate Long timer

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    I didn't take any pictures but it works great now. I actually had to take my work truck to the shop for tires so I took my rear 950 wheel. Because my buddy won't charge me and will balance it. I did break the bead at home using the side stand. I did try stepping on the bead but it wouldn't budge. It took some work (about 3-4 minutes) with the side stand but came off. When I get it back, I will break the bead again and get some pictures of how I ground it down.


    Nate
    #58
  19. ktmnate

    ktmnate Long timer

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    I got the pictures up on Smugmug. Here she is. I got picked it up yesterday and broke the bead again using the side stand. I ground down about 8-10" to allow me to get a tube out without issue. Some riders have concerns of the tire comming off the wheel at speed when they get a flat. I doubt that it will happen. I still had to use some force to get the bead to break.

    [​IMG]
    #59
  20. k7

    k7 Ancien cyclist

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    Cool - thanks. I've got a new rear tire to mount before Creel so I'll try and grind mine down once I have the old tire off. Last time, I used a couple of 2x4's and a PT Cruiser to leverage the bead off. That's pretty simple too but I can't carry a 6' length of 2x4, a 1' piece and a PT Cruiser when I travel. :evil
    #60