Eastbound, to the Stans

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Boarder06, Dec 25, 2013.

  1. MrGoldfish

    MrGoldfish Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2011
    Oddometer:
    538
    Location:
    Chandler, AZ
    Looking forward to it! :ear
    #61
  2. Boarder06

    Boarder06 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2008
    Oddometer:
    294
    Location:
    Christchurch, NZ
    Happy New Year Inmates!

    Here is some light reading for you to recover from last night's debauchery.

    Getting off the ferry was quick and customs and immigration was a breeze. I think I was the first one through. After getting some Albanian Lek from an ATM in a shopping center in Durrës I headed toward Krujë castle. By the way, the Lek is supposedly named after Alexander the Great, which is shortened to Leka in Albanian. How can you shorten "The Great"? Does it mean the "little Great"?

    On the way I noticed a lot of places with hand painted "Lavazh" signs. Turns out they are car washes, and there is one every few hundred meters.

    In the town of Krujë a bus managed to wedge itself into a very tight turn. It was quite a spectacle. Instead of giving the poor fella some room to maneuver, all the other vehicles just crammed him even further. This didn't look like it would resolve itself any time soon. It was pretty hot as well. So, I just said to myself "screw the castle" and headed out of town again. By all accounts I have heard I didn't miss much. Apparently, the castle has been "restored" to a Disneyesque appearance and is a prime tourist trap.

    I looked at my map and noticed a twisty mountain road that promised a nice little detour on the way to Lake Shkodra. The road was labeled SH36 and turned into SH37 and later into SH6. SH means State Highway, right?

    Well, I very quickly learned that these road designations don't mean a thing in Albania. The road did exist though, which isn't always the case. The first bit of dirt road had a bit of construction going on and maybe it will be sealed at some point in the future.
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    <i>The road ahead</i>

    Some sections looked like natural rocks had been piled up to make a sort of durable surface.
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    <i>It ain't the Yellow Brick Road, but it is a very good section of SH36</i>

    At some point I couldn't go on. There was a long, wide and deep trench crossing the dirt road. I think they were trying to install a water pipe. No problem. They filled in a section they had just dug out, just for me. Big smiles all around. Really nice fellas!

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    <i>They are making a path just for me</i>

    The dirt road ends at some sort of mining facility. It's tared from there on, but some section are really chewed up, due to the mining trucks. There was almost no traffic and the few mining trucks are very easy to overtake. They are so overloaded that they can only move at a snail's pace.
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    <i>Take a left to Germany?</i>

    It was a nice ride back to the main road through some nice valleys with lush, green mountains either side and rivers and reservoirs down below.
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    <i>Bridge over the Shkopeti, near Ulëz on SH6</i>

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    <i>Reservoir in the valley</i>

    I made it to Lake Shkodra just in time for sunset.
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    <i>Lake Shkodra sunset</i>

    I decided to do the loop to Theth, leaving most of my stuff at the campground. The approach from the south is still 2/3 dirt and I started from that direction. After crossing the bridge near Mes
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    <i>Ottoman era bridge in Mes, on the way to Theth</i>

    I was on a brand new asphalt road
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    <i>Brand new road</i>

    which thankfully didn't last too long. Soon enough I was up in the mountains on a great dirt road.

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    Someone tried to conquer this road on a Loncin bike. Bad idea :D

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    <i>Do not attempt this track on a Loncin bike :D</i>

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    <i>Amazing panorama</i>

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    <i>The bridge has seen better days</i>

    Shortly after this bridge came a really rocky section. Basically handball sized rocks, which can be a bit of a mission on a bike. There was also an election coming up and there were a number of election rally vehicles stuck in that section with not enough room to pass by. So, I just let them do their thing and waited in the shade under a tree. I have some video of how they got a van unstuck. Not enough bandwidth to upload it from here though.
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    I did make it to Theth with enough daylight left that I could return to the campground on the Northern leg.
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    <i>Theth village</i>

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    <i>Abandoned house in Theth</i>

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    <i>Theth river</i>

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    <i>There was still snow on the approach to the pass</i>

    The snow itself wasn't much of a problem. The melt water runoff created a pretty slippery surface but it was usually easy enough to find a dryish patch to go through. Some of the cars were sliding wildly all over the place and started sliding toward the drop off. The camber was going that direction. So, I passed them at the very first opportunity.

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    <i>More snow</i>

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    I got some gas at the first sizable settlement on the main road. The old chap manning the pump looked like he had never left his home town. Well, he started chatting to me in perfect English. Turns out he had lived in Detroit for most of his life and he figured there are better opportunities in his old homeland now. Hm, food for thought.

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    <i>Another great sunset at lake Shkodra</i>

    I had a fantastic day doing this loop. I should have stayed in Theth for the night though. I think that would have been fun. There is a bit of a gold rush going on at the moment. The expectation is that they will seal the Northern road all the way to to Theth and there seems to be a lot of cowboy construction going on at Theth. Everyone wants to be ready for all the tourists. I think the southern approach will stay unsealed and adventures can be had there in the future. This road is also very popular with mountain bikers.

    The bike handled really well and for me this loop was a great confidence builder. No chance of getting to cocky though. Whenever you feel like you are doing something especially tough and cool some local will be coming from the other direction in his trusty, rusty Mercedes van; cigarette in one hand, cell phone in the other and make it look like nothing, at which point your balls shrink back to their rightful size
    #62
    SmilinJoe likes this.
  3. swamp

    swamp U lie&yo'breff stank

    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,384
    Location:
    lower appalachia, Alabama
    beautiful pictures.
    looking good.
    thanks for putting the time into the report; it makes a difference.

    :thumb
    #63
  4. Prutser

    Prutser Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2012
    Oddometer:
    1,335
    Location:
    The Dutch swamp
    Great pictures Steffen,
    Its a shame a big part will be tarmac soon.
    Its nice to see the same spots where we stopped last summer.
    But we stopped to wet our "cool vests" which you probably didn't need at that time :D
    #64
  5. Spaggy

    Spaggy Long timer

    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,134
    Location:
    Western Canada
    Wow, Albania is really beautiful. Good stuff!
    #65
  6. Bonnie & Clyde

    Bonnie & Clyde Wishing I was riding RTW

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,966
    Location:
    Gardnerville NV
    :lurk
    #66
  7. BIKE-R

    BIKE-R Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2008
    Oddometer:
    249
    Location:
    Hungary, Budapest
    Great RR, I'm in!
    #67
  8. poolman

    poolman Gnarly Poolside Adv.

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2010
    Oddometer:
    806
    Location:
    Darnestown, MD
    Wow, I think we are previewing several future front page photos!

    Fantastic!


    .
    #68
  9. gunpowder

    gunpowder Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 28, 2009
    Oddometer:
    31
    Location:
    Istanbul - where the continents meet
    great RR to come again...:wings
    amazing photos as expected...:thumb:thumb:thumb
    but shame on you, you passed through Turkey and didn't notified??!?!:2cry
    #69
  10. Boarder06

    Boarder06 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2008
    Oddometer:
    294
    Location:
    Christchurch, NZ
    What can I say. Busy, busy, busy and it was in the middle of tear gas season. Stayed out in the suburbs :D
    #70
  11. Bob

    Bob Formerly H20Pumper

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2002
    Oddometer:
    3,078
    Location:
    Corral de Tierra CA, Ketchum ID
    Great ride report!
    Thanks
    #71
  12. Cuttle

    Cuttle twisted

    Joined:
    May 17, 2008
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    16,241
    Location:
    Mars




    woah - what an amazing area, makes me I wish I'd be back in Europe to take a trip...
    #72
  13. pip_muenster

    pip_muenster curious

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2010
    Oddometer:
    589
    Location:
    Karlsruhe, Germany
    In!
    :lurk

    Can we get a close-up of the bike badge where the propeller used to be?

    I've sent you a PM with some question on your bike, too.
    #73
  14. jackalsour

    jackalsour Dreamer

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2010
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    775
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    Classified
    :thumb This is just great :lurk

    #74
  15. gunpowder

    gunpowder Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 28, 2009
    Oddometer:
    31
    Location:
    Istanbul - where the continents meet
    failed, it was a good season, I would take you to some carnevale :beer
    we expect the new season soon, you still have chance...:D
    #75
  16. Boarder06

    Boarder06 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2008
    Oddometer:
    294
    Location:
    Christchurch, NZ
    It's just an IMZ logo. &#1048;&#1088;&#1073;&#1080;&#1090;&#1089;&#1082;&#1080;&#1081; &#1084;&#1086;&#1090;&#1086;&#1094;&#1080;&#1082;&#1083;&#1077;&#1090;&#1085;&#1099;&#1081; &#1079;&#1072;&#1074;&#1086;&#1076; (Irbitsky Mototsikletniy Zavod, Irbitsk Motorcyle Factory) is the current manufacturer of the Ural bikes.

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    Not having a BMW makes you almost invisible. I've told a few people that this is the new Ural :D
    #76
  17. Boarder06

    Boarder06 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2008
    Oddometer:
    294
    Location:
    Christchurch, NZ
    Time to leave the great Lake Shkodra campground and head off to the Valbona Valley by way of Lake Komani.

    When I got to the pier, I was approached by a German speaking Albanian while I was having an espresso (some days are harder than others). Nice chap, not pushy at all and after a quick negotiation they loaded my bike onto the boat.

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    <i>Bike being loaded on the bus boat</i>

    The boat is actually a bus that somebody built a boat around. Quite genious, really.

    There are other options, like this guy:

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    <i>This guy will take you as well</i>

    Or this guy:

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    <i>Two bikes, one boat</i>

    They all seem to cost the same amount of money. For convenience you can't beat the bus boat.

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    <i>Ready to go</i>

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    <i>Other have been here before :-)</i>

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    <i>Off we go</i>

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    <i>Cell phone reception in some areas</i>

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    <i>Brand new tarmac :-(</i>

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    I found a place that had nice little cabins for not much money. Perfect for the night.
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    Next to my cabin was a pretty awesome abandoned hotel in ruins.

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    <i>Albanian American friendship camp?</i>

    I ended up not far from Theth, where I was a couple of days before
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    #77
    SmilinJoe likes this.
  18. pip_muenster

    pip_muenster curious

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2010
    Oddometer:
    589
    Location:
    Karlsruhe, Germany
    Great update. I skipped lake Koman as I had limited time for research and everything I read sounded negative. Not my wisest decision ...

    I can relate to that. It's annoying when people assume you're a lawyer or worse just because of the BMW badge. My 12 year old GS gets that reaction whenever it's clean - even in Germany. I've been looking for a clever replacement badge for the XC, e.g. from Rotax, but I doubt I will find something as cool as your IMZ solution!
    #78
  19. cristiano

    cristiano Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2013
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    285
    Location:
    Italy
    Great!
    I visited Albania two times and I think is one of the best european country for adventure biking
    #79
  20. Boarder06

    Boarder06 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2008
    Oddometer:
    294
    Location:
    Christchurch, NZ
    Yes, I liked it a lot. From Italy it's a no brainer. Just hop on a ferry and enjoy.

    I'll be back. Missed out on a lot of offroad stuff there. Time was too short.


    #80