Enduralast from Euro Motoelectrics

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by BlackHoof, Sep 15, 2005.

  1. adventure950

    adventure950 Anglo-Saxon

    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2005
    Oddometer:
    572
    Location:
    Northumberland UK
    This is I believe the regulator my mate used - They are made in the UK and of excellent quality. I will double check - but it was the later modified version of the rr51 (as the early model /old stock ones had some type of problem) http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/RR51.html also there is the possability that the rr52 might suit some applications - if you look at this link they do a huge amount of different voltage regulators
    http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Regulator_Rectifier_206.htm
  2. Malindi

    Malindi Zen Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2001
    Oddometer:
    5,421
    Location:
    Vancouver, BC
    Thanks!
  3. adventure950

    adventure950 Anglo-Saxon

    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2005
    Oddometer:
    572
    Location:
    Northumberland UK
    Confirm its the rr51 to go with the Endurolast - I managed to pick a spare one up cheaply. However I spoke to John at endurolast and he stands by the Ducati items stating they are one of the bigger VR manufacturers - supplying many bike manufacturers and their build standards and quality control are second to none. He believes that sub standard fitting , faulty or old batteries and wiring harnesses have more to do with VR problems than the VR themselves - and I have to agree that his argument make sense. The VR are being fitted even with the best will in the world in some cases by people with the best intention but maybe not always with the best skill or experience - an area without of his control. I have found John always willing to help and offer advice and his viewpoints often backed up by a sensible argument. So on this one I have decided to comment no further on the quality of the Ducati items. cheers. jake.
  4. Steve G.

    Steve G. Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2004
    Oddometer:
    7,402
    Location:
    West is the Best
    Sorry for bumping this in a different direction for the moment. Long story, but I've just been given a complete Enduralast 450 system free and am about to install it on my '91 GS. Really the main reason is I want to get rid of the original rotor before it flies apart and takes out everything.
    I really curous as to how many owners of this unit have bothered to put a new oil seal in there at the same time? I havn't got a seal handy.

    As for the reg/recifier, Ducati has used Denso regs for a long time and they are of questionable quality. I'm hoping they're not from the same supplier as Ducati.
  5. Airhead Wrangler

    Airhead Wrangler Adios Mexico

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2008
    Oddometer:
    6,630
    Location:
    Back in Seattle, FINALLY
    I installed my enduralast system exactly as supplied by Euromoto electrics and haven't touched it since (except when I dismantled the whole bike). No complaints yet. Also, I didn't switch out the oil seal either. It didn't leak before and didn't leak after.
  6. Malindi

    Malindi Zen Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2001
    Oddometer:
    5,421
    Location:
    Vancouver, BC
    I have two Enduralast systems, on neither did I replace the oil seal.
  7. Steve G.

    Steve G. Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2004
    Oddometer:
    7,402
    Location:
    West is the Best

    Thanks Kevin!

    BTW, where did you end up installing the regulator/rectifier on your machines?

    Also, really envy your current world tour. Be safe. I hear Lima, Peru is a frickin' gong show of criminals.
  8. Malindi

    Malindi Zen Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2001
    Oddometer:
    5,421
    Location:
    Vancouver, BC
    Here are my setups:
    http://berettaconsulting.com/other/Enduralast/Enduralast.htm
  9. Steve G.

    Steve G. Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2004
    Oddometer:
    7,402
    Location:
    West is the Best

    I just wanted to bump this great picture up. I'm currently installing this unit on my bike. I will admit right off the bat that I'm more of a mechanical person than an electrical wizz. The whole procedure has gone well, certainly not a 1 hour install,,,,,,for me anyways. It's the switched power source, and relay wires that had/has me flumuxed, to the black and white wires off of the reg/rectifier. The above pic helps with [I think] the starter relay power, but where the heck do you find switched power, and charge light wire without disassembling the stock harness?
    John Rayski has been very quick to my initial questions about regulator location. But this unit is hardly plug & play, I'm very reluctant to start cutting away at the stock harness, but I'm assuming now that this is the case. The illustrations in the kit, and the components' style of plug ins/attachments, are all very different than what the kit has.
  10. photomd

    photomd Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2007
    Oddometer:
    752
    Location:
    The Land of Cotton (SC)
    If you're looking for a switched lead, jumper off the running light in the back. FWIW, I have a relay under the tank that provides current to my heated grips. This way the grips turn off/on with the key. I soldered a wire to the running light in the back as a source. My R/R is connected to the wire coming from the tail light: works great.

    I've had the enduralast system on my airhead since 06 or 07. I thought it was straight forward to install, but did have some "learning experiences". Mine had to do with the connections. I was having a weak charge under load. I found my R/R had a diode out, but as I worked through the system, I found the connectors that came with the system were loose. I pulled all those connectors and soldered everything with shrink wrap. It's been good since. As a result, I don't trust those threaded connectors.
  11. Steve G.

    Steve G. Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2004
    Oddometer:
    7,402
    Location:
    West is the Best

    Thanks for that. I don't have alot of experience with the posi-lock connectors, souldering is always better.
  12. Steve G.

    Steve G. Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2004
    Oddometer:
    7,402
    Location:
    West is the Best
    Mildly disapointed. Havn't had a chance to look at the bike for a few days now, busy at work. Just had a quick 1/2 hr on it tonite, and noticed the kit is incomplete. The 12" black 16 guage wire used to connect the black portion of the now vacant black/blue plugin,,,,,,to, the male blade of the now vacant starter relay,,,,,is not in the kit. I rummaged through my tool box to see if I had some new 16 guage wire hanging around. Nothing. So after work tommorow, I'll stop by the auto parts place to get a chunk of this stuff. I'm going by the recomendations in this kit to use new wire only.
    Everything is looking good. Regulator/recitifier bolted on, rotor/stator all torqued on, most wires routed. Still wondering what would be the best, most solid switched 12v source off of this bike? The instructions in this kit 'sort' of say for 1970-1984 BMW's, that the power off the coils is the best switched 12v source. My '91 GS coil looks absolutely nothing like the old school coils in the pics the kit supplied. There is no access to a power terminal on my coil. There is a big warning note in the instructions stating that this source MUST be a solid 12v or this will cause unwanted high voltage from the regulator. Anybody have any thoughts on another really good switched power source that does not require major surgery to the stock harness?

    Steve
  13. Malindi

    Malindi Zen Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2001
    Oddometer:
    5,421
    Location:
    Vancouver, BC
    You do need to get good connections for all those wires, just not the switched positive. Posi-lock connectors are total craps. I use SAE twin trailer plugs and use both leads for on strand. On the G/S there are a few switched fuses under the tank. I ended up splicing open a wire and soldering the switched positive into there. Sometimes you just need to do that.
  14. photomd

    photomd Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2007
    Oddometer:
    752
    Location:
    The Land of Cotton (SC)
    The running light in your tailight is a good one. Other than that, you'd have to search for one with a test light. Also make sure you have a good ground. I seem to remember that a weak ground will also cause high voltage to the battery. I ran a seperate wire from the mounting bolt on the R/R to my neg side of the battery.
  15. SaltyDog

    SaltyDog Anchor Clanker

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2006
    Oddometer:
    18
    Location:
    Hills of Arkansas
    I've had the enduralast system on my '89 R100GS for many years now. I got it right after it was first introduced. I used the coil power connection at first until one day I noticed my voltmeter was reading high at 16 volts. It had always been a steady 14.5 volts until then. I cleaned up the connection to the coil and decided to make a more reliable low resistance voltage sensing point. I added a automotive relay that is switched by the ignition switch and feeds full battery voltage through the relay's 30 amp rated contacts. This isolated regulator voltage sensing path insures that the enduralast system regulator sees the correct battery voltage and therefore maintains the bikes battery at the 14.5 Volt output throughout all speeds and loads.. This relay setup has lasted many years and is easily tested and has provided many miles of troublefree riding.
  16. Steve G.

    Steve G. Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2004
    Oddometer:
    7,402
    Location:
    West is the Best
    Finally got the bike together. Fired right up, charging at esentially 800rpm. So, initial output readings of the system seem quite high. At 4000rpm, voltage to the battery is 16.25 volts. With heated grips on high, and high beam on, battery is getting 15.85 volts. This is way too much. It seems to me at this point, that the regulator/rectifier is not doing it's job. It is grounded direct line to the battery. I must admit that I'm not surprised, I've had 3 Denso unit failures on other bikes of mine, and Ducati 'regs', where this unit was sourced, has a notorious reputation for burning up batteries because of too much voltage.

    Any thoughts? Improper wire connections surely would result in 0 voltage output, or a complete short, I think.

    Steve
  17. khale

    khale ride dirty

    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2009
    Oddometer:
    557
    Location:
    Atlanta, GA
    Couldn't be more pleased with my Enduralast kit. Of course I've only had it installed for a few months. I'll write back on this thread in a few years with a different tune if it craps out on me.
  18. Zoef zoef

    Zoef zoef Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2009
    Oddometer:
    406
    Location:
    Finn√ły Island, near Stavanger, Norway
    Sir,
    The post above your post tells about a more or less similar problem. In your case, perhaps the ground wire between the engine and the battery might be the problem (or another wire in the charging system with too uch resistance). The regulator has to see the correct battery voltage to enable proper regulating.
  19. Malindi

    Malindi Zen Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2001
    Oddometer:
    5,421
    Location:
    Vancouver, BC
    It's essential to have the black wire to the rec unit, which feeds from a switched positive, to have a good connection. If it had the supplied plug, clip it off and replace it with something else or, better, solder it directly to a switched positive. It took me weeks to figure out he supplied plugs were bad and I was fighting high readings like you are.
  20. Steve G.

    Steve G. Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2004
    Oddometer:
    7,402
    Location:
    West is the Best
    Thanks for the heads up on a god ground set up guys. Today, I built a more sustantial ground wire from the reg/rect body to the neg side of the battery. I used 10 guage wire, really paid attention to a good solder at both ends. Fired it up and got the following results:
    800rpm - 13.15volts
    1500 rpm - 14.55volts
    4000rpm - 14.75volts
    4500rpm - 15.10volts

    Still too high for my comfort. But the reduced resistance wire had a decent effect. I was looking at those giant 4 guage car wires they had, but they're too big for the battery connection. I really don't want any more than 14 volts at ANY rpm. I honestly don't know the spec range of this particular regulator.