Engine problems!

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by binman41, Jul 8, 2013.

  1. Reaver

    Reaver Outta Here

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    No way, that price is just for the bare block or something. Last time I checked a new engine complete was $10G!!!


    Yep.... HERE

    Just "Add to Cart". That was easy! :D
    #21
  2. Capt CF

    Capt CF Pontificating Nobody

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    He's right - $9785.64. That's more in line with what I was thinking. Back to worrying I guess. :)
    #22
  3. sarathmenon

    sarathmenon Armchair Adventurer

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    The top end should transfer over, but if I am right, the bottom end is different. The S and ST engines are mounted with a forward tilt, and it probably means it has a different crank case.
    #23
  4. luke-eole

    luke-eole Adventurer

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    Hey, looks like your not the only Brit who it shit out of luck

    I think i have had the same thing happen to me on a 08' with 10800miles on it.....

    does yours sound anything like this

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_TRj5...ature=youtu.be

    mine went last week, not seized solid but wasnt able to turn it by hand so may well be close...

    have a look at the UKGSER site

    http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=343042

    Cheers
    Luke
    #24
  5. Reaver

    Reaver Outta Here

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    Yeah, well that AND the S ST engines are silver. C'mon now, that would look silly. :evil

    When you figure it out let us know what parts you need.

    Or be like pkbinder here and just buy a new bike! Maybe he has some parts?
    #25
  6. jttele

    jttele Been here awhile

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    I've got some engine lower end parts in good condition as well as a good condition cylinder head with valves and followers (no cams) that I'd be willing to talk to you about selling. I'm in the USA (North Carolina) though, so I'm not sure what the shipping across the pond might be, but it's another option anyway.
    #26
  7. Rider 101

    Rider 101 Highly paid idiot

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    Having a laugh
    #27
  8. jakell2010

    jakell2010 n00b

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    I would jump on that,,,that looks basically what you need
    #28
  9. Capt CF

    Capt CF Pontificating Nobody

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    +1 - the pics aren't very high res but from what I can see it looks like a really clean motor!
    #29
  10. jttele

    jttele Been here awhile

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    Alexander, NC
    +2, I hate to say it as much as I'd love to sell you some of my parts, but that engine looks like a great deal. I'd jump on that quick if I was in your shoes.
    #30
  11. binman41

    binman41 Adventurer

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    AHHHHH.....only just seen the replies about the motor in Italy and its already gone :(

    Gutted.

    Haynes manual arrived this morning so am starting the strip and engine out of the bike. I will let you all know what I find.

    EDIT. The listing was removed and relisted, have found the new listing now. Am trying to contact member about postage....wish me luck!
    #31
  12. Loutre

    Loutre Cosmopolitan Adv

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    REAVER!! Stop "buying" spare parts for your wife's bike!
    #32
  13. Reaver

    Reaver Outta Here

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    Shipping was only 150 EU! :deal

    I thought about it I'm not in need of any engine parts. That one was too good of a deal........There's an F8 for sale local with an irreparable title that's used for off road only. I'm waiting for my house sale cash.

    The twins are damn good engines and I've only heard of a few exploding. Buying a used bike you never know how it was maintained. The ones on Ebay usually have a spun lower bearing. I'm waiting for the OP's diagnosis......
    #33
  14. bajaburro

    bajaburro Ancient Adventurer

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    thats cheap in U S dollars because its made in china by a guy working 12 hours a day 6 days a week for 1.50 an hour.
    #34
  15. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    The 800 is not made in prc. The sixfitty I believe is.
    #35
  16. binman41

    binman41 Adventurer

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    Evening/afternoon all.

    So today and last night i set about tearing into the bike to find out what was wrong:

    [​IMG]
    started stripping bits of the bike.

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    Trying to label al wires etc for when I rebuild her.

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    Engine ready to come out

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    Engine out

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    Homemade engine stand!

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    Bronze metal shards in sump....(suspected bearings)
    #36
  17. binman41

    binman41 Adventurer

    Joined:
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    [​IMG]

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    Even more brass shards on gasket!

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    [​IMG]


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    Showing scaffold home made stand :)

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    All covers off

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    Shims out

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    Crankcases split

    [​IMG]
    Btm Crancase removed

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    Gearbox all operating correctly

    [​IMG]
    Balancer rod
    #37
  18. binman41

    binman41 Adventurer

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    Okay so what I have found up to now:

    • Dieselboys, write up thread on DIY cam chain replacement is an amazing write up. I found myself using the thread rather than the haynes manual to remove engine and split block. Really good thread and really well documented, which is why I havnt bothered to go into more detail on mine :)
    • BMW's exhaust studs are shocking. One stud has snapped off in the block which I will have to drill out, the other three all the studs came out rather than the nut release. I will be replacing with stainless steel.
    • There was a lot of fine brass partcles in the sump! :(
    • Its a long old job just to remove the engine. Anyone who attemts it, book a day off work rather than on a school night and working till 2am! ooops
    #38
  19. binman41

    binman41 Adventurer

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    [​IMG]
    So with theblock split it was easy to very quickly diagnose that the balancer rod bearing had completed collapsed, I could wiggle the balancer rod in just about every direction by a good 2/3mm!

    [​IMG]
    Not the best photo but from peering down into the cylinder bore, it all looks ok, no scores in the bores etc.

    [​IMG]
    Balancing rod removed. Note the heat marks on the top of the arch.

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    Photo showing the 'fractured' split on con rod

    [​IMG]
    Note the bearing shells had worked their way around 90 degrees to the split of the conrod. Also note the heat marks on both sides.

    [​IMG]
    Bottom of con rod out, same heat marks on top of arch.

    [​IMG]
    Look at the machined surface on the crankshaft where the balancing rod runs, it appears that the surface seems to have been worn away. New crank?
    #39
  20. binman41

    binman41 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2013
    Oddometer:
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    So now I'm after some advice on the following:

    I intend to replace the crankshaft bearings for the piston conrods and the balance rod conrods. The two piston crankshaft bearings seem to have a little bit of play in them.

    The question is can I do this with keeping the pistons in place....i.e remove crankshaft from engine and slide the bearing shells out of the one half of the conrod that is still attached to the piston?

    The reason I dont want to remove the pistons is that they appear to be ok and I do not have a honing tool nor a piston ring compressor to reassemble.

    The crank may be sjot anyhow so that will come out. Aslong as I set the crank to TDC before installing the cams at TDC it should all allign....correct??

    With the crank out I will check the main end bearings also. If required I will replace the shells, but on inspection they seem ok.

    My theory is that the balancer rod bearing shattered/collapsed and this has caused a vibration/out of balance engine that has strained the piston crankshaft bearings.

    Can anybody comment on the crank (last picture above)....to me it looks like the surface of the crank has started to break up and it feels rougher than the rest of the machined surface......I presume that means I need a new crankshaft?
    #40