Erasing Decals

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by disston, Nov 11, 2012.

  1. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    I can buy a rubber wheel, maybe even the name brand "Eraser", 4" wheel for removing decals and use this in an ordinary 3/8's drill or a 1/2 drill. I don't want to ruin any of my drills and this happens if they get side loaded too much, I think. I have a large decal to remove from both sides of my car so it can be painted and replaced.

    Will I do OK with the $15 to $20 plain wheel or get the $50 special wheel or get the DynaZip air tool for $300.

    Anybody ever done this ?

    [​IMG]
    #1
  2. dave186

    dave186 Been here awhile

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    I just removed the decals off the doors of a truck a customer just bought. I just use the eraser wheel in my cordless drill. If I did it more often I would buy the air tool. The truck was white and the wheel did leave some yellowing behind. I had to use a buffer and medium cut cleaner to get it off. I havent had that happen before, even on other white vehicles.
    #2
  3. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    The car has been painted several times and we paint around the stripe sometimes but it's gotten so bad the only thing to do is take the decal off then the whole car will be painted. Thanks. I have other air tools but I can't find some of them lately. I think a couple of grinders were stolen. I didn't want to buy another air grinder that I would use twice a year.
    #3
  4. kubiak

    kubiak Long timer

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    i use the cheap eraser on the end of a 15 dollar harbor freight air drill. i set the air pressure low on the compressor so i dont burn through the paint.
    #4
  5. kirkster70

    kirkster70 moto junkie

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    Yep, same here. I use the 4" eraser with the 1/4"-20 male threads.

    I have an el-cheapo (central pneumatics or maybe astro - cant remember) straight air die-grinder with a 1/4" female collett. I think I may have paid $40 for it.

    Works great. I normally use 90psi.
    #5
  6. superhak31

    superhak31 Adventurer

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    3m rubber wheel works great on a drill gun. Cheap
    #6
  7. kantuckid

    kantuckid Long timer

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    As you are repainting -perhaps it will be faster to use a heat gun on low setting & peel the decal?
    #7
  8. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    I got my rubber wheel today. Also thought to buy an adapter so I can get it into some tool. I think the rubber wheel is a 1/4 X 20 thread, not sure. But the end stud of the adapter won't fit a small chuck or any air tools I have. It will fit my 1/2 drill. Guess I'm set. I will prolly have to do a bunch of sanding after I get the decals off but I'm hoping I can get a smooth paintable surface in a couple days and turn it over to the paint shop.

    The rubber wheel and adapter was less than $20 at Mattos. Not 3M but AP which I think is Astro Pneumatic.
    #8
  9. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    The Eraser Wheel is a neat tool. I'm glad I got the chance to learn how to use it. Another time if I had this much decal to remove and knew that I would be patching voids anyway I think a scraper, some are heated I think, would work better. The Eraser is exactly what it sounds like, like an eraser on a pencil, or more like the gummy bigger erasers that do a better job than the one on a pencil. It works much the same way. It turns into a bunch of rubbery rubbish as it works against the decal and makes a pretty good mess. It is rather slow as you work against each square mm of decal. But in several hours at least I'm done with one half of my car. Actually a little over half because I have done the trunk. I have used two Erasers so far. Only have one more but I can go get another if needed. Slow, did I say it's kinda slow? And because the paint on my car is a repaint the Eraser sometimes cuts into the paint too. I think if a better quality paint job or an OEM paint job this wouldn't be a problem.
    #9