First of all - Why "no man's land"? Because that was the impression Albania left us, since entering the country. Impression that changed radically as we started to discover people and places. I at least know that I had not many expectations, but still, I think I had an open heart. I went to discover, to see, to admire. And although the initial plan was to just cross Albania towards Montenegro, we ended up spending our entire holiday in the beautiful Albanian lands. But let's start with the beginning ... Friday, August 12, 2011, Sibiu, Romania Helloween are singing in the Grand Square and I am struggling to shove a bunch of shirts, boxer shorts and socks in a side bag. I'm angry as time goes by and I miss the concerts, but a fresh weissbier from the refrigerator and the thought of the trip to come calms me. Finally, the bags are ready, I get out in the yard and mount the on the Vroom-vroom. The "one beer" becomes about four beers ... and I go out in the square to continue with the good mood. I miss the Helloween concert, but at least I make it to Tarja's. Finally I gather a group of former and current colleagues, we share all shorts of memories and experiences, and we get "a little bit" drunk. The next day, with great difficulty we pull out around noon. We meet my coworker Marius and his wife, in order to start the trip "softly": a biker meeting about 150km away. We get there in the afternoon and enjoy the fun until late in the night: It is here we discover that we have a problem - a broken sleeping mat. So we decide to spend two days on our next sleeping place to wait for a new mat. That is even better - since next place is one of my favorites - Bazias. It is the place where the Danube enters Romania. It is a place where the water is really wide, really calm, not a lot of currents, you can swim without any problems, and you get an amazing view of the sunset. Almost forgot to mention - the bike is our trusty '99 SV650S After receiving the mat we start early in the morning towards Macedonia. We follow the narrow winding road near the border with Serbia, we pass through semi-deserted villages, where the few people we see are looking at as as if we were riding an UFO. We arrive at the border where we face a very surprised customs officer: "Where are you going?" "Albania and maybe further" "Albania?!? Why?" "Well we don't know yet, but we hope to find out!" "OK, have a good trip" "Thank you!" And we are off riding through Serbia. The road is good, almost empty, the sun is up, and it is not too hot, not too cold. Just perfect for riding. Everything in green around us. The sky is an intense blue. I listen to the beautiful rumble of the V-twin engine and to good ol' Johnny Cash. A small tear is going down from my right eye - but it's because of happiness - a bit of freedom at last! As we were in Serbia before and this time we were looking for something else, we just took the shortest way to Macedonia. Another quick border control and we are riding on Macedonian roads. Landscape is different here, green fields have been replaced by arid mountains. And it is quite hot: We arrive in Strumica at sundown. This is the last pic we have taken before getting dark. In Strumica we find a cheap and nice hotel (altough I think this was the most expensive accomodation during this trip - around 30 euro) and we sleep for the night. Next day we will visit the waterfalls and head for Ohrid.