Evaporative Emmission Control Expert??

Discussion in 'Old's Cool' started by darmahman, Jan 21, 2007.

  1. darmahman

    darmahman "Illogically Deluded"

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    I have a 91 GS with the evap. emi. control system above the starter(Fuel shut off solenoid,air solenoid, blah blah blah. Does anybody have experience with just throwing this stuff away and running it w/o ? What can I plug up,ect? My main concern is the wires that go into the canisters. I hate this sh--!
    #1
  2. Spider-eyes

    Spider-eyes Curmudgeon

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    It won't run any faster nor better, it will cost time and trouble to eliminate it and the air will be dirtier as a result. Why not leave it be? The days of eliminating the "smog equipment" and gaining power are long gone.

    My $0.02
    #2
  3. darmahman

    darmahman "Illogically Deluded"

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    Well - I am not worried about faster or better but if the fuel shut off solenoid goes capute in the middle of nowhere all the environmental P.C. thinking goes down the toilet if I am left stranded. Only by special mail order will any BMW dealer be able to sell me one and your local auto parts store surely won't. So if I can I will get rid of it now. Not asking for P.C. thinking but practical thinking. This bike wasn't originally designed for this crap. Thank you very much tho for the advice.
    #3
  4. Stephen

    Stephen Long timer

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    Remove the fuel and air solenoids, run fuel lines as done a decade earlier, rubber tape the wire ends.

    You can ditch the secondary air system, too, if you want. Just remove it and plug the holes with FD filler plugs.
    #4
  5. darmahman

    darmahman "Illogically Deluded"

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    Thanks for your help. - Already done the later.
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  6. Mugwest

    Mugwest .

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    it ai'nt about performance gain, it's about throwing away a couple of pounds of US-legislated hardware that is added weight and hassle when you want to pull the trans out for annual spline lubes, clutch r/r, driveshaft boot replacement etc.

    oh and the gurus have long suggested that the Pure Air syst = higher combustion chamber temps that can warp heads (see the stock 800 cc G/S motor sitting on my floor with warped right head).

    The solenoid plumbing under the starter cover (NOT the long large-diameter j-shaped crankcase vent hose!) is removed and the crankcase nipple blanked with a rubber vac plug. You will then have a black starter cover with swiss cheese holes where all the hoses used to route. Pick up a non hole-y earlier cover if you wanna keep critters out.

    There's likely some vent nipples/connections on the underside of the tank that need capping too-- never had to do that myself. Check Snowbum or search here for tips

    likewise, see ShowBum or search here for which stock drain plugs to use in the cylinder heads after removing the Pure Air System connections (heat and LiquidWrench those spiggots coming out, and anti-seize the replacement plugs going in). At the airbox the holes are neatly filled with stock airhead rubber timing hole plugs (with some silicone adhesive to keep them in place)


    If you keep the stock Emissions, the first time you have to pull the airbox to move the transmission you will make an oath to throw that mass as far as physically possible. Most of us have been down this path.
    #6
  7. jtwind

    jtwind Wisconsin Airhead

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    The airheads will also run slightly cooler with this stuff removed. JT
    #7
  8. darmahman

    darmahman "Illogically Deluded"

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    Thanks for the help. Exactly what I needed.
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  9. jtwind

    jtwind Wisconsin Airhead

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    These are the parts you need to plug holes etc. JT

    Go to your local dealer and get the following BMW part numbers:

    2 head plugs (actually oil drain plugs for R11 series)
    BMW# 07 11 9 919 117

    2 crush washers (for the above plugs)
    BMW# 07 11 9 963 252

    2 vacuum screws for the carb
    BMW# 11 11 1 744 327

    2 timing plugs (for the airbox)
    BMW# 13 11 1 259 869

    Removes the guesswork and experimentation.!

    You need two 16 mm oil drain plugs (BMW -not sure which models) use lots of
    antiseize paste, two timing light rubber plugs for the airbox. two screws for
    the carb vacuum lines or use one inch of vacuum hose and put a short screw in
    it to plug it up. There are also some rubber tips around that may work.
    You may need to richen your mixture 1/8 turn out or so if you get more
    trailing throttle burbling. (Tech term) :-)


    #9
  10. BajaJim

    BajaJim Dirt Research

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    Just FYI, some (Snowbum for one) strongly suggest NOT using antiseize on the plugs in the heads. I used red loctite on mine and do not intend to ever remove them.
    #10
  11. Suppermotodd

    Suppermotodd Tag Thief

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    The most inportant reason to remove that crap is fire. Once the fuel lines start leaking inside the starter cover and one litle spark! The resulting fire and melting motorcycle parts will emit 10 times the polution of a top fuel dragster!:rofl
    #11
  12. AntonLargiader

    AntonLargiader Long timer

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    I have the fuel solenoids on my R100R and I am leaving them in place. I pulled off the pulse-air system because the pipes siezed to the flare nuts at the head, making them impossible to remove normally for service. I like the solenoids because the carbs NEVER drip when I turn the bike off, no matter where I leave the petcocks or how much crud is in the carb float valve.
    #12
  13. Mugwest

    Mugwest .

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    Jim-- you're correct, in part. I reviewed the Bum's advice and see that he does indeed foreswear the use of anti-seize at the PAS head fitting. He seems to be agreeable to Loctite Red here, but nor is it a fullblown endorsement.

    personally i don't like the idea of Red on anything beyond conrod bolts-- stuff that has to stay put forever and ever amen. I know he specifies Red on the carb inlets where they meet the head-- but i'll go Blue on the PAS plugs from now on. Red on a steel/alu interface seems like future trouble, but that's just me.

    Thanks for the wake-up call on anti-seize there-- it's been 3 years since i installed those port plugs, and i'm almost certain i used anti-seize. Time for a torque check.
    :thumb
    #13