no spokes! ok, i should also tell you about final day backroads lunch stop with the wildest waitress ever. sunniest possible disposition, tremendously up beat, hearty laugh, knew the menu by heart, and had a big wide smile that went ear-to-ear...the only problem being that she owned a grand total of one tooth, an upper incisor. yeah, ya shouldn't stare, but that tooth kinda grabs your attention. she was sneaking smokes behind the counter, wasn't supposed to, but did it anyway. when she smoked, she would trap the cig filter between the prized tooth and gum, smiling the whole time. i had to look, couldn't help it, except she caught me staring and now she's staring at me, eyes starting to get a little wild. lordy, time to run. "check please". left a nice tip in case she had, ya know, dreams of some nice cosmetic dental work. next stop...Beirut.