Extended Carbon Fiber beak.....Help me design it....

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by ebrabaek, Apr 15, 2011.

  1. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Ok ok...... Sipping my last cup of coffee....... Will enter the dark realm shortly......:D
  2. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    This is truly a crazy shape to mould. So careful to score the edges all along the perimeter will help the release. There are simply so many angles, and edges, and you have to be careful not to find out that this needs a two piece mould.....after you molded it.......:lol3
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    First of.... is the original beak....
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    Then the epoxy clay part.......careful here, as both the mould, and clay is rigid.....
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    All parts separated.....
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    Then sanded with 600 wet to clear any nicks...... buff, and ready for a first cast....
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    Toppled, ready for first layer of release agent....
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    After first layer of release agent.....
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    Second layer of release agent.....
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    Note the small areas of voids in the case..... Might look detrimental to the untrained eye, but with these crazy angles..... I am quite happy. No reason to fix them if this design looks like crap, so I will take one print.....Install it on the bike, and have a look. If it looks good, then onward to fix the mould. No reason to spend more time that necessary.
  3. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Over the years when I make something, the first edition usually are being replaced with the second edition. Historically that has been my score. Usually the second one stick's. I already have a plan for the design, drawing the stock lines all the way forward......In case this ends up looking like a bear claw....:D Sort of what I intended. As a symbol of great traction.... Might not come out like that, but I thought a blend of the stock lines....and a bear claw/paw, would be a nice touch. But it is really hard to picture this inverted...... So it might come out more like a nose of a seagull.....:D:rofl:lol3... We shall see tomorrow. Then construction of the USD fork sliders ( protectors) begin....:evil:evil
  4. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    What a pain in the a$$ this was.... But it was to be expected. One of the beak's design is the hard angles. It looks good...imho. I am really trying to honor that, but that same style is really pushing this layup style. I have a feeling that when it comes apart tomorrow, or this afternoon...... I will discover that more sculpting is needed, plus all the fixing of these crazy angles.
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  5. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Went and visited our local hose maker...... He whipped up an extension for me when I put on the Rox risers....... This time we measured length,angles, and made a 3 foot, and 3'6" with a 90 deg, and a 45 deg.. and 15 on the bottom. Took us about one hr. US$ 120..... Yay......
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  6. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    First press, is not yielding what I thought would be a Panzer bear claw........ Oh well..... On to number two.......
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    Movie time.....:freaky
  7. SDDinNH

    SDDinNH Ridgerunner

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    :clap :beer :freaky

    I like it !
  8. therivermonster

    therivermonster Been here awhile

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    It looks good earling!! What about it don't you like?

    Did you lay down a coat of epoxy in the mold and let it get tacky before laying up the part? It looks like you almost would have to with the angles that you are dealing with there.

    The finish looks really good! Did the mold or the part have any blemishes at all?
  9. Loutre

    Loutre Cosmopolitan Adv

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    Well this worked out all right! great beak dude!
  10. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Thanks guy's..... I was trying to create a flow of the extension that mated with the old lines, and as I don't have access to a CAD, and draw matchstick men..... Only thing for me is visualize, and make one. This one is certainly functional, but I wanted it to look better. I am my own worst critic, but I don't mind plugging along. There are some voids that needs fixing. That was ironically not just due to the crazy angles, but more so to the fact I laid down 3 layers wet. You see you can get away with doing strange things to one layer.....two.....perhaps....three....Not so much, and it now becomes very stiff. If you lay down the first layer tacky.... at least two things will happen. First... The resin you have brushed on the mould will now have pooled .... Two....Lots of small voids because the now low viscous resin will not yield good saturation of the cloth. It will stick like flypaper though.....:D, and the voids could be fixed after separation. Instead... you come back every thirty minutes, and " re-attach" the fibers as the resin gets tacky.....:deal. I will fix this beak, and begin work on the next one, that I have visualized..... Then focus on the Fork slider, and brake lines. Fork sliders should be done in a day or two.... Heat gun....check...... lexan sheet.......check.....:freaky:freaky
  11. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    What a pain in the A$$ to bleed...... After both brake lines installed...... I was huffing on the mighty vac for a pint..... Then just hooked it up to the vacuum chamber and sucked the Snot otta it. That seems to work. They are now back to as they were before. I guess , as all the lines were disconnected, perhaps lots of air entered back to the abs module. Am I missing anything..... Bleed the master cylinder.... then right, then left....back to the master cylinder. No bleed at the ABS module ....right...????
  12. HighTechCoonass

    HighTechCoonass Living the Dream....

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    what a master artist on this mold! you inspired me to try a few parts... Water bottle holder and brake guard... it did not come out quite as well!


  13. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    :D... Thanks.... It alright.... Just sand the top....uhmmmm... not so pretty looking part......re-coat with resin.....and don't tell anyone......:D:freaky
  14. runnin4melife

    runnin4melife Been here awhile

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    Erling, for the brake lines you need to flush the whole system to rid the old fluid. Best way to do this is to disconnect the right caliper first (it is the terminal caliper) then open up the reservoir up top and pump away. Once fluid has ceased coming out of that caliper then DC the left one and pump some more. I add some clean dot 4 while doing this to flush out the ABS side. Once those two calipers are relatively dry I DC'd the top banjo and set a rag up to pick up any fluid run off. After you have your new lines connected it is easier to open the bleed valves on both and fill the reservoir and pump until fluid comes out continuously. This will remove the most air from the lines. After this point it is time to initiate the bleeding. The lil vacuums are great but I have broken two of them so I just do it the old fashioned way. The trick is that you bleed one line at a time while maintaining pressure on the brake line. If you try to bleed both simultaneously or one then the other you will not expel the air from the lines. I think all and all I did about 15 bleeds before I had complete pressure. It takes a bit but it definitely helps to do it like this.
  15. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Yeppers...... I guess that is what I ended up with..... I did not blow all the old fluid out.... But rather just flushed about a quart of dot4 through. First half pint was the nasty old stuff, and then it became clear, as the fresh fluid filled the lines. I was just puzzled as of how long it took. Once I hooked up the vacuum chamber, it became short work....he he.....And brake is back to normal.:D