F 8 engine noise/engine oil

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by Steveman, Oct 13, 2012.

  1. Mongo357

    Mongo357 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2008
    Oddometer:
    178
    Location:
    High Plains of NV
    Well I spent some time in the garage with my girl lady night...

    First took all the plastics off, and looked for any hose / plastic damage - no sign of heat or melting.

    Next checked the coolant level in the radiator - filled to the brim, started leaking when the cap was loosened. Expansion tank is approximately at the "cold" level.

    Next checked the wimpy fan - no big gravel or rocks, but won't turn on its own for the first 5-10°. I get it through this sticky spot, and then it feels free, I don't feel a hang-up when the blades go by any particular spot.

    Finally I got to changing the oil. After warming the bike up (only for oil changes now, I swear to the BMW gods!!) I drain the oil. Darker than new, but not black. It has approximately 2,500 miles on this oil change. The oil is very thin (was Maxima Maxum4 10w-40). The magnetic drain plug has a thin coating of grime, but no visible shavings. A little background info: about 50 miles back I changed from the BMW aluminum skidplate to the Ricochet, and changed the oil filter (not oil). The BMW skidplate was banged up enough that it was difficult to get all the mounting points to match. The old oil filter also got a crease in it, causing it to leak. I note that the new oil filter which I installed already has a dimple despite of the Ricochet skid plate (thinking of ways to fill in their slot). I caught an oil sample as I drained the oil and sent that off today. Hopefully I'll hear back by the weekend. Filled her back up with Castrol 20w-50 4T motorcycle oil, and reinstalled the "old" filter. Starter her up.......... Normal racket, louder because the plastics are off, and then quiets down right away. Let her run for about 15 minutes. The ambient temperature was pretty much similar, although maybe I should look up a weather report. Kept one eye on the temp gauge, and the other on the cooling fan. After the gauge gets to half-way, neither of them move. Not a sound from the cam chain after the initial start-up, but I wasn't about to let things get hot. After about 5 minutes with the engine off I check the oil - it reads overfull, even though I only added 3 qts (capacity is listed at 3.1 qts). I'm not sure how to read that. Normal the oil being over-full is an indicator of a blown head-gasket, meaning coolant leaking into the the oil (correct?). But like a said, the coolant level looks fine, in the radiator and reservoir. On a carburated engine it could also be fuel filling the cylinder and getting into the oil, but I don't think the fuel injection would allow this to happen. Don't understand this one, but all I can figure is that not all the old oil drained.

    To be continued when I get the oil sample results.
    #61
  2. JoelWisman

    JoelWisman Long timer

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    It sounds like your probably okay. If that engine hat ever gotten above 250F you would have been more then a quart low on coolant.

    The high oil level likely means nothing. Vagaries of slightly off level / not all the oil draining / new filter style that holds slightly less oil.

    If your head gasket were blown you would have white smoki coming out exhaust or visible leaks or oil that looked like a vanilla milk shake.

    Your fuel would not load up with gasoline that quick and if it did the oil would smell very gassy and be ignightable when hot.

    I think your okay.
    #62
  3. JRWooden

    JRWooden Long timer

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    Does anyone have the P/N for the cam chain wear measuring tool?

    I asked my local dealer about it, got a quizical look ... then I described how it worked ... the parts manager tried to find it in the dealer catalog and was unable to do so... I'm betting it's called something really clever :lol3
    (something along the lines of valve shims being called "oil sinks" )

    Does anybody have the P/N?
    If they could find it my dealer would order one.... :cry
    #63
  4. Indy Unlimited

    Indy Unlimited Long timer

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    You can use the same trick as with a drive chain.
    Pull on a link at the center of a wrap around the cam sprocket and if the link pulls away from the sprocket time to swap her out. Mine seems to go about 24,000 miles before needing replacing. I use the Diesel Boy method with a master link!
    #64
  5. JRWooden

    JRWooden Long timer

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    I didn't realize it was QUITE that bad ... 24K miles from timing chain sheez ....... :cry

    I've got 30K on my bike now ... but it is the 658, so with the much reduced lift on the cams vs. the 800 I would "think" my chain should last considerably longer? [FONT=&quot]Lift is 7.2 mm vs. 9.64 mm[/FONT]

    I wonder if you can get masterlink sideplates that are colored?
    I guess I could use dykem or something... It sure saves a lot of work to do the master-link method, but as Joel mentioned ... if it works loose it'll send the engine to the trash bin. Having the masterlink flagged would make it eaiser to find and inspect during lash checks...
    #65
  6. Indy Unlimited

    Indy Unlimited Long timer

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    I have been doing master links on dirt bikes and now I am ready to do my third timing chain on my BMW F800GS. I have no fear in the master link method.
    But do not try it if you don't have a good understanding of how to mushroom the pins to retain the master plate from walking off.
    Joel is just being cautious because if you get it wrong it it will be expensive.
    The master link is just as strong as the other links if done correctly.
    #66
  7. MikeMike

    MikeMike Long timer

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    Indy, just curious here, have you ever changed your cam chain tensioner assembly?
    #67
  8. Indy Unlimited

    Indy Unlimited Long timer

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    Yes I did at 24,000 and Diesel boy recommended it as well. I agreed it would be wise to replace it with every new chain.
    #68
  9. Ratchdaddy

    Ratchdaddy Been here awhile

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    Wow Mongo, Hope your bike is ok. After an oil change I usually only add back in about 2.5 qt. Then I warm the bike up, shut it down, check the oil and add whatever is necessary to top it off.

    That was good info on the radiator fan. I live in the desert and ride a dirt road everyday, so I am definitely going to to check mine this afternoon. I live where temps stay above 100 after May so I need that fan to work.
    #69
  10. JRWooden

    JRWooden Long timer

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    Thanks Indy!
    Understood, I'll never done one of the mushroom jobs...
    I'll seek advice/help from someone with experience when I do mine! :deal
    #70
  11. JRWooden

    JRWooden Long timer

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    Bueller?
    #71
  12. MikeMike

    MikeMike Long timer

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    If anyone has the latest version of the manual on disc, it might be listed on it. Just a thought. Locally, neither the independent nor the dealership factory trained mechanics had heard of it.
    #72
  13. JRWooden

    JRWooden Long timer

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    Parts Manager at my dealership tried to look it up on line through the dealer logon system ... couldn't find it .... :cry

    I have the 4th edition of the manual but it is that is from 2009 so no go ...
    anybody know the revision level of current manual?
    #73
  14. TheCowboy

    TheCowboy back in the saddle again

    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2008
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    611
    Location:
    The frozen tundra - Minny Sota
    youse guys are freeking me out - all this talk of changing timing chains and tension adjusters and stuff at 24,000 miles or so.... damn, I got 75,000 miles and the only thing (other than tires and oil) I've changed is the stator, oh, and rear wheel bearings.

    I've had the same noises as everybody else since she was new....

    TheCowboy
    #74
  15. The Island

    The Island Im lost.

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2013
    Oddometer:
    255
    Location:
    Clayburn, B.C.
    Since new and about 15000KM later —*my f800gs makes a rattle sound when hot, too. These colder months, the bikes engine sounds so smooth but when hot, it sounds like a tin can, haha.
    #75