F 800GS Wheels... to all owners...

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by Airbornexts912, Mar 25, 2009.

  1. Riteris

    Riteris Dessert Runner

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    Don't be a looser!:D
    #21
  2. TedShred

    TedShred PHAT BASTARD

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    Liten up will ya?:D
    #22
  3. Riteris

    Riteris Dessert Runner

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    Okay, I will put the breaks on it.
    #23
  4. Bayner

    Bayner Long timer

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    Well, I just put my Battlewings back on for a road trip and confirmed 2 dents in my front rim and one in my rear. I was running Karoos and always had 30ish PSI so it isn't a pressure issue. I suspect the imbedded rocks and the cross ditches on our forestry roads are responsible. Possibly the suspension isn't valved properly for higher shaft speeds...??
    What are the rest of you experiencing?
    #24
  5. AKTroy

    AKTroy BE AWARE OF TRAINS

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    Wonder what the chances are of getting them tubeless?
    #25
  6. bxr140

    bxr140 Flame Bait

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    After taking out a SIGNIFICANT amount of oil from the forks (like, ~1.8" of oil height), I've found that they work noticibly better off road. That's not saying much, of course, but its a step in the right direction...at least I can use that last inch of travel that seemed elusive with the stock oil height. I also have my forks raised way up (24mm above the top clamp) which of course helps turn in and puts more weight on the front end...whatever it really does, it seems to make the suspension work a little better. Dunno. Could just be in my head. Next up is lighter oil with cut springs.

    Regarding the topic at hand, I have a number of good rock shots, including one that bottomed on a hard hit (with the above setup). I'm rather surprised given the reports to the contrary, but my front rim is still round. Stock Battlewing with 10k+ miles and 30-something pressure.

    You can get a Tubliss in 21". Haven't really heard much about them either way. Your only other really feasible option is to go old skool with RTV and tape and whatever else you can think of over the spokes.

    Personally, I don't really have a problem with the tubes. Thought...my feelings might change after I have to break the beads on that 150 street tire out in the middle of nowhere...
    #26
  7. PackMule

    PackMule love what you do Super Moderator

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    It sucks big balls. DAMHIK


    [​IMG]


    :baldy


    I've got a decent dent in my front rim -- from a sharp-edged pothole in VT.
    #27
  8. sdsmye

    sdsmye Adventurer

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    I haven't had occasion to try it out yet (fortunately), but Globeriders demonstrates on their F800GS maintenance DVD an interesting technique to break the bead on a rear tire using the bike's weight via the sidestand. It's worth checking out.

    Stephen
    #28
  9. RAD800

    RAD800 Been here awhile

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    I was on 24psi for about a week and managed a few big dents in the front, regardless of how ordinary the rims are in suspicious of the front suspension, it bottoms out hard at the sight of a cattle grid, pothole or anything uneven at speed causing the flat spots.
    #29
  10. RAD800

    RAD800 Been here awhile

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    I thought everyone did it that way...:dunno
    #30
  11. WoodWorks

    WoodWorks House Ape

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    I gave that technique a try when I replaced the original Battlewings with some Heidenau K60s, Stephen, and even in the comfort of my garage, breaking the bead on the rear tire using the side stand was an exercise in extreme frustration. I eventually got the tire off. But I have no illusions about being able to do that on the trail. So I got me one of these Motion Pro bead poppers:

    [​IMG]

    Works much better.

    David
    #31
  12. PackMule

    PackMule love what you do Super Moderator

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    I've done this many times -- with the sidestand of another bike. Are you saying they use the sidestand of the stricken bike, rear wheel removed to somehow accomplish this? :ear


    I happened to be alone in BFE Nova Scotia for the above pic. :bluduh
    #32
  13. sdsmye

    sdsmye Adventurer

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    Woodworks and Packmule,

    All I can suggest is that what Helge Pedersen showed in the Globeriders DVD seemed to work.

    With the rear wheel off and the bike on the centre stand, he then rolled the bike sideways, loading the weight onto the side stand which was strategically positioned to break the bead from the rim. He did caution it was a delicate process to avoid dropping the bike when the bead lets go.

    For the front wheel, he used a bead popper like the sample Motion Pro in your photo. Later in the DVD, while demonstrating a puncture repair, he successfully used the bead popper on the rear too (TKC 80), rather than the sidestand method.

    That said, I have no experience with any of these techniques - hence why I bought an instructional DVD...:augie

    Stephen
    #33
  14. PackMule

    PackMule love what you do Super Moderator

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    So, I had occasion to try the one-bike-sidestand-beadbreaker method tonight. It took a few attempts to refine the technique, but it is doable. Sketchy, but doable. At least for the rear tire.

    Shimming underneath with a 2x4 (or other similar object) helped, but by no means made it "easy".


    The bead on those stock battlewings sucks ass. :fyyff
    #34
  15. push_bars

    push_bars Been here awhile

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    I have done it a couple times... I propped up the opposite side of the rim using the tire I intend to install (guess I will need to find a rock if I am on the trail).

    You can pretty simply pull the bike over off the center stand and onto the side stand... little bounce and the bead usually lets go...
    #35