F650 battery relocation

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by dwayne, Feb 19, 2007.

  1. dwayne

    dwayne Silly Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2006
    Oddometer:
    4,424
    Location:
    wheelie in purgatory, Calgary
    I started a write up for a F650 Battery relocation in another thread, but it was at best incomplete, and at worst incomprehensible.
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    The reason for this mod, was I could not comprehend BMW moving the gas tank low in the frame, then moving a heavy battery in the place where a traditional gas tank would be. It raises the COG and puts more weight on the front wheel, which is OK for street applications, but can be detrimental to handling when in the rougher stuff.
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    I think I need to start with a few details to help you decide it this mod is for you.
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    -My bike is on &#8217;02 F650 GS Dakar without ABS, I have never seen an ABS bike disassembled, but I am lead to believe the servo is also located where my battery wound up, and really have no idea on if that puts the kibosh on this mod or not.

    -This took a lot of disassembly, reassembly, redisassembly, etc to get the wiring and fit up to the point I was satisfied.
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    -The stock wiring harness did not need to be cut.
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    -The only additional parts that I used were some misc. fasteners, electrical tape, a ground strap from a 1985 Kawasaki Ninja 1000R, battery box from the same bike, and a bit of sheet aluminum and sealant to seal the bottom of the battery box.
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    -Oh yeah, I did this mod over a couple of months, so I may have forgotten to include some bit of info you may need, so ask if you get stuck.
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    The following photo show just how high the battery is mounted. The rag is covering the intake to the throttle body.


    <o:p>[​IMG]</o:p>
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    The goal is to move it here. This is below and forward of the ECU, in front of the gas tank. Note: ECU was already removed, it normally sits right above the gold tube (shock reservoir) and below the rubber mount band


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    So the issues that need to be addressed are
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    -moving the shock reservoir to make room for the battery
    -moving the regulator (for the same reason)
    -manipulation the wiring harness to facilitate these changes
    -creating a mount for the battery, including a vent line.
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    Obviously there is quite a bit of disassembly. Remove the following:
    -seat
    -&#8220;gas tank&#8221; fairing
    -air box and snorkle
    -battery
    -battery bracket
    -the &#8220;horse collar&#8221; that the fuel filter mounts to
    -disconnect the supply side of the fuel filter
    -remove the ECU (no need to unplug it, but you can)
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    The first issue was such a no brainer, I didn&#8217;t even take pictures. Most F650 already have the shock reservoir located on the underside of the right hand frame tube. The brackets for heavy duty zip ties were already there. All that was left was to remove the original mounting clips. This involves unbolting the cross member that supports the regulator. Remove the bolts on each and the bolts that attach it to the gas tank.
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    <o:p>This is the regulator/shock reservoir mount, that will become the battery mount</o:p>
    <o:p>Note that I have already drilled out the rivets that hold the reservoir mounting clips to the bracket. Also note the hardware on the right side of the picture mounts the regulator.</o:p>
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    <o:p>This is where the mount lives (note clips removed), and you can see the underside of the regulator in the far right of the picture.</o:p>
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    <o:p>Remove the regulator mounting harware including the nut plates</o:p>
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    <o:p>At this point I fabbed up a battery box. As I stated I used a Ninja 1000R as a donor. The BMW uses a Y12 battery, and the Ninja a Y14 (which has slightly larger dimentions), I could use either batter in the BMW now. Any type of box will do, as long as it fits the bike and the battery. I had to cut the flanges and pan off the ninja battery box, sealed the bottom agains leakage, and mounted it from the inside of the box down into the rear, and cross portion of the original regulator/shock reservoir mount with counter sunk fastners (sheet metal screws) to prevent the heads from wearing through the battery. Be sure that the tails of the screws do not contact the gas tank, or anything else.</o:p>
    #1
  2. dwayne

    dwayne Silly Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2006
    Oddometer:
    4,424
    Location:
    wheelie in purgatory, Calgary
    I checked to see if the battery would clear the ECU, and it does. It&#8217;s tight, but the battery terminals face forward so they won&#8217;t touch the ECU. Still I think it&#8217;s important to make sure the boot over the positive terminal is good shape. A further point of consideration is how tough the battery will be to get at when the &#8220;horse collar is back in place. I am will run a 2-pin SAE trailer connector (like heated vests use) with heavy gauge wire to handle charging and booting requirements.

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    The next part is finicky, and requires lots of plugging, unplugging, rerouting etc&#8230;but this is what I came up with.
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    The regulator gets mounted on the original battery mount. I considered loosing the mount as it weighs a ton, and still may, but I wanted to prove the concept first. If I loose the battery mount I will use sheet aluminum to make a bracket to mount the regulator to. It will pick up the upper mount locations for the battery mount.

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    Here is the regulator mounted, but getting the wiring here is a touch tricky. I did need to drill a new hole in the battery bracket to mount the regulator. The wiring loom is now routed on the right side of the battery mount.

    [​IMG]

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    You need to peel back the stock tape that holds the loom together to separate out the regulator loom. You need to go all the way back to the cover on the right side of the motor, at the base of the cylinder. You will need to remove this cover as well.
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    In this photo I am pointing to the regulator loom connector in it&#8217;s new routing, it runs below the cover in the center of the photo. These connectors normally are below the cover. I will tape the loom with electrical tape.

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    #2