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Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by johngil, Mar 2, 2010.
Anyone happier than normal w/ any aftermarket pads using the stock rotors?
I wish I could offer up some advice on current brake pads but at 13600, I'm just about to put on some Galfer FD165 Black pads on the rear and FD 172 Green pads on the front.
It'll be a couple of weeks before I can offer any advice but I'll try to follow up for you.
I may try these as well. It's time (again).
If you didn't ride in so damn much mud . . .
"when i get home, i'm gonna punch your momma right in the mouth, because there is no wayyyy you came from my loins."
I love Jackie Gleason in that movie
I've got a set of Galfer Gold's on the rear now. The rear is very easy to lock up b/c of the studded knobbies, but the gold's have a nice feel and are easy to modulate. Much better than the stockers.
Can't comment on longevity yet.
CrazyMike, thanks for the info. I will ride Sunday and report back.
I have a set of carbone Lorraine pads on their way from bmwboneyard.
Any trick to mounting these new pads. Do you just push the pistons back in and if so what are using to push them back in with?
I was also planning on flushing the old brake fluid while doing this. Is there anything I need to be aware of when flushing the brake fluid (ie abs got yas)? I have always just opened the bleed valve and squeezed the brakes while replenishing the old fluid with new in the resevoir being careful not to run the resevoir dry.
Any advice would be appreciated.
The rumor is that you don't have to unmount the calipers to replace the brake pads. Removing the calipers is not that hard so either way that works for you will be fine.
I use a large flat-bladed screwdriver to compress the pistons back into the caliper.
No extra tips for bleeding the brakes even with ABS (which I have and I've bled).
I pulled the rear wheel. Easy enough.
For the front, I removed the calipers. Probably unnecessary, but so easy I really didn't think about it.
As for bleeding the brakes...
I have changed a couple of brake lines on the bike (w/ ABS) and bleeding the system was totally painless.
Proper method for brake pad replacement on an ABS system includes opening the bleeder screw when retracting the pistons. This prevents any sediment from being forced back up through the plumbing and F-ing up your ABS valving, which you definately don't want to have happen.
(I've done it without opening the bleeders many times, :ie when they're siezed, and rarely had troubles. However these bikes are new enough nothing should be stuck. Opening them regularly will ensure it stays that way.)
Love the green up front. The black in the back works well, but may be lacking feel. Only got in 120 miles or so. Lots of fire roads and sliding.
I may be tempted to try the green in the back as well.
The gold has good feel (IMO) out back, John, and should last longer than the greens.
I have used the gold on my KTM's.
I'm reluctant to try them on the brokeback beemer only because of them being harder on the rotors. From the price sheets I have seen, I would need to sell my son and pimp out my wife to pay for a new set of rotors.
I'm sure I'm just being paranoid.
Hmm. I hadn't thought about it in that way. I'm not a heavy rear brake user, and I was shocked how quickly my stock rear pads got toasted (especially given the lousy amount of feedback and grip they provided). I presumed it was from the abrasiveness of mud/dirt/etc so I opted for the golds out back over the greens (or black).
I'll have to keep a good eye on the rotor wear now.
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="539"><tbody><tr align="LEFT" valign="TOP"></tr><tr align="LEFT" valign="TOP"> <td class="TextObject" width="475"> Galfer Black Pads (GG rated)
If you are looking to upgrade your brakes without paying an upgraded price, Galfer black pads are the perfect choice for you. These GG rated pads out-perform most original equipment pads (which are usually G-rated only) by maintaining functionality at temperatures as high as 700 degrees. They offer extreme versatility with the ability to be used on both front and rear, and on both street and dirt with excellent effectiveness. These Semi-Metallic & Carbon pads offer great longevity while limiting rotor wear. These pads will give you a strong progressive feel allowing for a controlled braking modulation.
Composition: Semi-metal, Carbon Installation: Clean rotor surface & bed-in with easy braking first 60-120 miles.
Galfer Green Pads (GG rated)
If you need to stop on a dime, you better put on the 'Green'. The Kevlar-organic Green pads offer powerful, initial bite time after time with no fade. The versatility of these pads is unmatched. They can adjust to abrupt temperature and moisture changes and take little time to recover between braking. They can be used in all types of riding whether it is street, dirt, race, and any combination of each. These are better for an aggressive rider, since these offer one or two finger stopping power. For many riders, the ideal combination is using Galfer Green in the front with Galfer Black in the rear.
If rotor wear is of great concern, the Galfer green would be an optimum choice. They won't last quite as long as the black, OEM or the HH pads, but their soft, organic material composition causes minimal damage to the rotor surface.
Composition: Kevlar, Ceramics, Basalt Fibers Installation: Clean rotor surface (be extra diligent in cleaning if following an HH (Sintered) compound) & bed-in with easy braking first 60-120 miles.
Galfer HH Pads (HH rated)
These are the hottest pads on the market. This sintered metal & ceramic composition allows for the ultimate friction, making their stopping power unmatched. It will provide instant powerful braking intensity in any weather condition or speed. The ceramic coating on these pads disperses the heat evenly, keeping the brake fluid temperature lower. This minimizes brake fade. These pads also have a longer life span than most other pads because of the high metallic content. These HH pads are rougher on rotor surfaces but work with optimum performance on Galfer Brake Rotors and other high-carbon content discs. Despite this assumption, these pads have remained popular with the aggressive off-road and street riders and are supplied to many race teams.
Composition: Sintered Metal, Advanced Ceramics, Carbon Fibers Installation: Clean rotor surface & bed-in with easy braking first 60-120 miles.
Notes on rating of pad friction: Pad Friction levels are designated by the alphabet system... the further down the alphabet the higher the friction level and double letters is stronger than single letter designations (for example: GG has stronger friction than G rating).
That'll learn me for going with the vendor's description instead of the manufacturer's...
Yeah but,,, "Don't worry. We sell rotors too."