F800GS Break-in question?

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by The Griz, Apr 14, 2009.

  1. def

    def Ginger th wonder dog

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2004
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    13,741
    Location:
    The woods and mountains of Alabama
    Yes, ride safely...don't be concerned about your break-in. There are enough hills between Birmingham and MS to provide varying engine loads. I would stop at rest areas and inspect for leaks and some cool down along the way. If you have time, stop at the Barber Vintage Motorsports Museum...its on you way home http://barbermuseum.org/index2.php
    #41
  2. JoelWisman

    JoelWisman Long timer

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2009
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    STL, MO, USA
    +1 to all the above.

    Modern rings seat in no time and nothing you can do will screw this up.

    Bearings are a different animal. One part of the bearing is an alloy sleve in most bearings, what's riding on this sleve is usually high carbon steel. Both are tempered to an exact hardness by heating to a high temperature and cooling at a specific rate.

    No matter how hard you run the engine, you will never heat any componants to a temperature that will affect tempering ONCE THE ENGINE IS BROKEN IN!

    Before run in is completed, bearings do not mate perfectly, this leads to localized heating. If the engine is run at high enough rpm for long enough durring break in, retempering will occur with the result being a softening of localized areas.

    The above is not important to race engines, which are made with exotic materials and machined to more precise tollerances, because longevity is not the goal.

    The reason that every single manufacture of mass produced vehicles with internal combustion engines reccomend a gentle break in, is because this is what will give you the longest engine life.

    If you ride it like you stold it, your engine probably won't blow up, but it also will not last as long.

    Yes run in instructions are conservative, but mainly because every manufacture knows some people will push the limits so manufactures set those limits tighter then they need to be.

    Do what you like.

    If you want my advice, keep the revs low and gently run them higher for the run in time.

    Vary the load and rpm's often. Your anealimg componants and releaving casting stresses through repeated heat cycling. Also metal is somewhat elastic so the rpms do need to be varied, and higher over time.

    Stop often and allow the engine to idle, or better yet, turn it off for about the time it takes to smoke.

    Change your oil at the reccomended time. This has absolutely nothing to do with abrassive particulate load, that is what oil filters are for. Change your oil at the reccomended first service because it will have suffered viscosity break down and addative depletion due to super heating from high friction points.

    If you insist on running your engine hard durring break in, change your oil early as it will be fried.

    Incedentally. The color of engine oil has nothing to do with it's performance, no relevence to it needing changed, no indicitation of how well or poorly your run in technique was.

    Oil turns black due to carbon loading. This carbon loading comes mainly from blow by which is most sever durring cold starting and warm up.

    If you take many short trips, especially in cold climates, your oil will turn black very quickly. If you idle to warm up your engine, the oil will turn black quicker yet. If you tend to take long trips with fewer cold starts, your oil will remain light longer.

    If you desire to know how your oil is doing, and how much of your bearings are in your oil, contact "Blackstone labs". http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ . Send them around $20, and mail back the kit they send you.

    Opinnions are like assholes lol, but I defy anyone to find a cradentialed automotive or motorcycle engineer that says different.

    Either way have fun and enjoy the ride
    #42
  3. DockingPilot

    DockingPilot Hooked Up and Hard Over

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    Mar 24, 2004
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    I use Blackstone myself. In fact, next sample going out with this next drain.
    #43
  4. KnuckC

    KnuckC F8er

    Joined:
    May 11, 2010
    Oddometer:
    199
    Location:
    North Vancouver, B.C.
    I recently purchased an f8 and have enjoyed reading about the various controversies. Some claim the bike is incapable of going beyond a well maintained gravel road while others claim it is capable of the most demanding single track. Some claim the bike is poorly manufactured and is destined to leave you stranded while others claim it is the best built bike on the planet. Some claim you must change your oil after 20 miles (how many of us do that) and break-in your bike like you stole it while others take the position that your motor will lose significant longevity if it is not broken in gently. What are we to believe?

    With respect to break-in, I suspect that the truth lies somewhere in the middle. I wouldn't recommend only riding the bike below 3000 rpm for the first 600 miles nor would I recommend riding it to redline through every gear in its first few miles. I agree with those who say do not ride for extended periods at a constant rpm and do not allow it to idle for an extended amount of time. I agree that the oil and filter should be changed within the first 600 miles, not at 20 or 3000. Other than that, I suspect that those who ride the bike during break-in in the same manner they intend to ride the bike during the time they own it will be fine.

    These forums are a great resource and we all try to help each other in pursuit of our passion. Unfortunately an unintended side effect is we sometimes scare those of us who are not "experts" in the area of concern. As a result we may inadvertently mislead. We should all be wary of extremes and write our comments accordingly.
    #44
    hgwilliam likes this.
  5. The Griz

    The Griz Long timer

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    Minnesota
    Bravo!:clap
    #45