F800GS DIY 12k Maintenance

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by AngryRed, Oct 24, 2012.

  1. AngryRed

    AngryRed Lost in Cyber Space

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    Ok I just called my local shop in Las Vegas and they want a wallet splitting $650.00 for the 12,000 mile service for my trusty 2009 F800GS. I couldn't believe the price but the service manage did his justification spiel and told me it is what it is. I called some other shops and confirmed the 12k service was anywhere from $400 to $500 so my opinion is this shop is high and they can be, they are the only game in town.

    Nuff said on that, I want to do the majority if not all the service myself. I'm no stranger to maintenance, I did all my own on my old Ducati Monster and if you can adjust cam belts successfully on that guy you can do pretty much anything.

    Point of the post then is resources. I've been searching most of the day and I just can't find the definitive information I need on the web so I figured heck, let's ask the inmates. I've read the dealer won't sell you a manual? Does anyone have a link or reputable site that will? I've been looking for a detailed list on what is included in the 12k service but only see posts about bikes for sale. Any listing or resource on what one should do for 12k? Basically I'm looking for any resources you guys can provide to assist one in walking through the 12k service for this bike. Again I'm no newbie to the wrench but I also want to follow a checklist on items to check.

    Thanks in advance and my family's savings account thanks you. $650... come on, even with inflation there is a breaking point.
    #1
  2. Yip

    Yip Dirtlover

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    #2
  3. mitchapalooza

    mitchapalooza Rider is Air-cooled

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  4. AngryRed

    AngryRed Lost in Cyber Space

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    Thanks, great start. I'm thinking of having the shop do the valve check and I can do the rest. Engine oil change is a walk in the park as I've done it many times on many bikes including this one, but the oil change in the forks may take some research. Service manual on CD will definitely be a must.

    Everything else is trivial and basic mechanical skills can cover. It definitely doesn't add up to $650 bones.

    Thanks again for the link.
    #4
  5. Hayate

    Hayate ADV Monkey

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    Good theory, but the labor involved in the 12k is mostly getting at the valve check. They knocked off $75 for me once because I did all the trivial stuff (brakes, chain, oil). I'm at 42k and haven't done the 36k interval yet but mean to tackle the whole job myself for the first time.

    In addition to the service schedule already linked here is a great walk through that I for one learned a lot from and will be using to assist my maintenance. I do have the BMW shop disc (you can in fact order them from your dealer even though I also heard that rumor at one point... should be like $110), but these pictures and explanation of the valve adjust procedure are worth so much more to me.

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=623587

    Oh and the Haynes manual is out too. A guy in my club got it and though I have not reviewed or compared it to the BMW shop manual he claims it is doing the trick. And it's a lot freaking cheaper.

    http://www.amazon.com/F800-Twins-Se...ie=UTF8&qid=1347456188&sr=8-4&keywords=800+gs
    #5
  6. Loutre

    Loutre Cosmopolitan Adv

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    I bring mine to the 12k maintenance on Saturday. If you want me to send you the detailed "bill" just PM me this weekend. In France it's about 250-300€. Great bill but if you live in an appartment you can't perform a great oilchange by yourself
    #6
  7. Reaver

    Reaver Outta Here

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    Your fork oil change isn't due yet so don't bother. 30, 000 kms is the next inspection. I don't think that was included in your estimate cause that involves removing the forks and turning them upside down (upside right on an 800 :D). That's another hour or so.

    The valve check is lengthy and meticulous but not high tech. You shouldn't need an adjustment on the first check unless the factory messed it up from the start. I just did our 658 in under 2 hrs and that included lots of care and cleaning, setting up a table and being real careful with the body panels since she hasn't scratched them yet. My 800 is also due but I expect to have to adjust it as the last check showed I had an exhaust valve tight.


    The write up posted here is great. The trickiest part is getting the valve cover out/in as it's a tight fit in the frame. The only special tool I had to buy was the long 6" feeler guages.

    Should be easier there in that nice weather. Good luck!
    #7
  8. JRWooden

    JRWooden Long timer

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    2 Hours ... I'm impressed ... I'm thinking that being as "meticulous" as, and this being the first time I'll have done this I could make this an all-day project easily .... :rofl

    Hmmmmmmm I had not thought about the possible need for longer feeler gauges ... dang

    Commenting on the cost:
    The dealers do charge a lot of money, but it is a somewhat lengthy procedure even if you are NOT meticulous...
    Also you are paying retail price for a fair number of parts that BMW is kinda proud of .... valve cover gasket set,
    air filter, spark plugs, oil & oil filter etc....
    #8
  9. Reaver

    Reaver Outta Here

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    Faaaaaaaaaaack!

    I went and jinxed it. A cager pulled out in front of her last night and took her out. In a slow zone in front of the church...... As they say, close to home. We've done countless miles together and she even wore out her last GS. First bike accident in 10 yrs riding. She's having an operation right now on her wrist......waiting.

    Anyhow, I've done the valve check many times so it does go easier. I put alll the parts with their hardware together and in the order I took them off so a spare bolt is immediately identified before it's too late. Even saved the cut cable ties so I knew how many to reinstall. Take notes if you have to, pics help if you're iffy. I'm sure you could stretch it out if you wanted to. Maybe play "what's this" while sipping on something. You won't get an exact measurement on the valves cause you're bending a feeler guage over and blindly sticking it in. Kinda like a "go, no go" check. I'm an Aircraft Mech so it's much easier than a variable inlet guide vane mechanism inspection. Even so, you can always ask here if you get in trouble .:1drink
    #9
  10. JRWooden

    JRWooden Long timer

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    Awww crap............. that stinks! :cry
    I hope she heals fast and well!

    Thanks for the tips, I found a set of 6" gauges @ local tool supply, will pick them up this week!
    #10
  11. AngryRed

    AngryRed Lost in Cyber Space

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    Wow sorry Reaver... hope she heals up quick.

    Thanks to everyone else on the advice. Everyone willing to help each other out, that's why I love this place
    #11
  12. Loutre

    Loutre Cosmopolitan Adv

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    just came back from my 12k maintenance:

    249€ which included the change of my rear brake pad. The actual thing is around 200€. can't imagine why it would cost 650$ o0
    #12
  13. mapuda

    mapuda Crash Tested

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    Red,

    I am in Summerlin and have a GS-911 so I can read any fault codes and reset your service interval. I have the maintenance CD and a Haynes Manual. I also have a 2009 F800GS.

    Check Oso Blanco's most excellent post on valve check/adjustment here

    The local dealer has been good to me but $95 per hour labor? Nein Danke.

    PM for contact info.
    #13
  14. vtbob

    vtbob wanderer

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    fwiw the 800 likely does NOT need a valve check/adjustment at 12k miles.

    I took my bike into my dealer, of a long time/several bikes..for the 12k and he did not do the valve check after he listened to the valve lash and said it was not needed. Just and oil change and the general check list about $250 if memory serves.

    I took the bike back for the 24k at about 20k(just before leaving on a long trip) and again the dealer listened to the bike and said no valve check needed, did get new front pads and the general check list.

    when I came back for the 30k He did do the valve check....$68 for gaskets but there was no charge for valve shims...wonder if they were free (does BMW replace any wear parts for free???) or the bike did not need adjustment...did not think to ask.

    If the factory did the original assembly correct(ie the valve not too tight) normal wear will only open the tolerance...no damage just a bit noisier...

    bottom line if it were me...I'd listner carefully for bad valve lash (or get some one who knows to do this for you) if it does not sound loose....skip the valve check.
    #14
  15. JRWooden

    JRWooden Long timer

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    It was mentioned in another thread that typically the valve lash on these engines gets tighter as time/miles go by,
    and not looser like most other engines.

    I am not personally 100% certain that this is true, but if it is true .... then listening to the engine is not a sure-fire way of ascertaining that check is not needed.

    I had the dealership do the 12K check just to avoid any arguments about warranty if I needed it in the future. I asked the mechanic that did the check if he would write down all the clearances for me, and he was nice enough to do so.
    As soon as I gather up a few more items I'll be going in and doing the next check my self and will report back on how the clearances have changed.

    In other news, for those of you that have a GS-911 the twins keep an internal "mileage counter" that says when the next valve lash check is "REALLY" due ... the 12K intervals is what's in the print documentation, but the BMS-K is doing some sort of internal calculation based on rpm/load/how-much-German-beer you have drunk.....
    In my case the GS-=911 said the check did not need to be performed until ~29K miles....
    #15
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  16. vtbob

    vtbob wanderer

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    take a look at the cam/shim/bucket design. there are two modes of wearing in on these engines. one is the cam/ follower wear. as this happen the cam to follower gap will increase...ie get looser. this is the primary wear and it is a sliding interface. when this happen, the gap is measured and thicker shims are added.

    there is a secondary factor, that is the valve seat wear and valve deformation wear. these would make the valve lash get tighter. In modern engine with very hard/ high quality valve and seat materials I do not beleive this is the primary wear mode. If some one has better info please pass this on.

    the issue of paying for the valve lash inspections for warrantee concerns is valid. If you consider this important pay the couple of hundred for the inspection....consider it insurance to keep insurance/warrantee....

    I would like to hear from people on this list who know for a fact that when the 12, 24, 36k mile inspections happens, how many actually have enough wear to cause thicker shims to be added.

    I believe most of this inspections ..will only be that...just opening the engine to see that nothing is needed.
    #16
  17. JRWooden

    JRWooden Long timer

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    I hear ya bob ... the idea that clearances would decrease with miles is a new one to me.... :huh
    This is one of the threads I was following on it, there is another one someplace...
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=19917471#post19917471

    I am prep-ing to do the check on mine in a few weeks - I do have a baseline for comparison so will post my results.
    #17
  18. UnDealership

    UnDealership BMW Master tech

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    In my years of working on motorcycles (6 years of working on just BMW and Triumphs)....the v-lash gets tighter over time. Its the area where the valve meets the seat that gets worn. This causes the valve spring to pull the valve further toward the cam system (what ever kind your bike has). Problem this causes is, the valve touching the seat actually cools the valve.

    You have probably heard of a "Burnt valve" before. This is when the valve lash gets too tight. The valve does not get its proper cooling and it (the valve) starts to erode. Once this starts its over! You'll need to have the head removed and a new valve(s) installed.

    Clicking valves are good! Quiet valves are NOT good! Noisy valves can be a sign some something really weird happening...and you should get it looked at asap.

    I hope this can clear up some info on proper valve lash.

    Sean
    BMW Master Tech
    #18
  19. JRWooden

    JRWooden Long timer

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    Thanks Sean!

    I guess I'll just have to get used to that ... :lol3

    On most of my other bikes (mostly air-cooled Honda dirt bikes) the lash gets bigger with use.

    I had intended to do the second lash check myself, but ended up getting it done at a very nominal charge as my water pump was getting replaced under extended warranty and they had to replace the drive gear on the end of the camshaft as the pump had been re-designed ...

    Thinking quickly I said ... "Hey ... while you're in there ..." :deal
    One valve was a few thousands tighter than desired (not below the low end, but moving that way) so the technician re-shimmed to to be close to the loose end of the range. This was the same thing that was done on the first lash check (but different valve).
    #19
  20. kc275a

    kc275a Adventurer

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    What is the torque setting for spark plug?

    Thank you
    #20