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Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by RobStar, Dec 27, 2009.
I said "But Leaking"
Got my valve cover re-sealed the other day...9,800 miles. Tech said I had the up-graded bolts (whatever that meant) but the factory seal wasn't right. Under warranty, no problemo. BD6
I have the same issue. 34k km. Top left side, some minor oil "perspiration". If I clean it, it reappears after 20-30km. If I dont, the whole left cylinder cover will be more or less covered in oil but still no dripping.
My dealer says the gasket has to be changed every 20.000km. While admitting the bolts have been revised and have a different length now
Price for fixing this issue now: 150usd, parts&labor.
Really hoping I won't miss my Yamaha.
I got the revised gasket during my 20K service last September, and it hasn't leaked/wept at all since, now at 30K.
I got the revised gasket too.Problem solved. I hope for good.
I posted earlier in this massive thread and now using Permatex ultra black for the last 32,000. miles every time the cover comes off and back no there are no leaks. BMW should just figure it out and place some oil resistant gasket sealant on each side of the gasket and rest assured no oil leaks.
Have you ever used Hylomar for valve covers?
Yes and it fails due to the tight clearances required. Hylomar is great up to 0.0010" and that is why it is used in aerospace industry where clearances and machine tolerances are very tight.
I have seen it fail on my Husky water pump and cam cover. I went back to Permatex and never has it let me down.
Thanks ... Ultra-black it is ...
I was hoping Hylomar would work as it would make reusing the gasket set a lot easier... but ... oh well....
I take it Indy, that you are referring to this type of Permatex:
If so, I've used it for as long as it's available here, going back a couple of years at least. The Ultra Copper I carry in my tool kit for incidents like my "hole in the engine cases" on my DR 650, where I need to pull cases off track side and get it all to seal first go for a run back to my workshop. The last lot, a month ago, I had to redo the clutch side cover on the DR in the pissing rain on the side of a mountain at near zero degrees C after removing it and patching up a hole. Hasn't leaked a drop.
I clean the surfaces with a rag dipped in the fuel tank. I put a good bead on, and let it go tacky so it doesn't stick to my finger, then reassemble.
The Ultra Copper is rated high temp, I've used it on muffler joints with good success.
They also make some good metal putty.
It comes in handy.
I think Indy meant this stuff:
I'm a bit worried I'll not get things re-assembled before it starts to set up which was the other reason i was hoping to use Hylomar... but ...... sigh........
I've used the Ultra Black as well. It has a pretty good ...whatever they call that time between coming out of the tube and going too hard to work.....time.
As my dear old Dad used to say....it sticks like shit to a blanket.
I had a tube of that handy when I did the DR cam chain tensioner gasket a few weeks back. Worked perfect.
Edit: it seems like every tool box I open in the garage has a different type of gasket sealer in it. It's a big garage. It took me 3 days to find the silver solder and flux I had for the bathroom pipe repairs. Now I can't find the blow torch.
I have the same problem in my garage ... except my garage is not that big....
That is the stuff! Ultra Black is rated to 500F and has never let me down on any of my engines - No oil leaks ever period!
But on balance ... the Ultracoper is rated to 700F (intermittant...)
Copper is better for high pressure head gaskets and not for cam cover gaskets. In my experience.
Ultra-Black it is !...
Getting mine out of the shop today. Replacing both leaking valve cover gasket and water pump at 14K mi. under warranty.
Has the issue been fixed on the 2013 models or still ongoing problem?
Had the gasket problem before on my '09 F8GS. Can't remember the mileage. Now at 26k miles and there it is again. Not happy. Requested a service appt. this better be a warranty item.