F800GS oil change

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by thelouv, Jul 16, 2011.

  1. thelouv

    thelouv ocd

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2008
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    So I can't seem to get the search box to work on here. Keeps giving me some sort of Error 505 message. I know there are great posts on "how to" things here. Can anyone direct me to an oil change for the F800GS? Time for me to start doing it myself and I just want to make sure there aren't any little things I could miss (like on my previous Aprilia Capo and its 2 drain bolts).
    #1
  2. CheckerdD

    CheckerdD Long timer

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    Dave Rankine, Reno NV
    I did not take pics last time I did it.

    Looking forward on the left side, do you see that Aluminum colored bolt? Tap it LIGHTLY with a hammer to help it break loose. Then you stick your 10mm hex head into the hole and twist. I needed a little cheater bar since the dealer did the 600 mile, and it was really tight. Note the oil is going to come out nearly horizontally. So you need to have the pan below and to the side in such a way the oil lands in it. Next remove any crash plate you might have that prevents you from accessing the filter. Insert the tool you have to remove oil filters over the head and twist off. Make sure the rubber O' ring comes out with the filter. a portion of the oil in the filter is going to drain as you remove it. Then you put a bit of old oil on the new o'ring from your finger so it seals easily and twist on the new filter. Do not over torque it. I hold my socket close to the center (meaning my hand next to the socket) and twist firmly, but no harder.

    Now put a new washer on the drain plug and insert. Dont over torque it. It made of soft metal and it gets heated by the motor. Maybe some nice person will post the torque setting. Its not a lot.

    Now pour in your 3 quart containers of MOTORCYCLE grade 10w-40 oil. Run the bike looking for leaks, and top up as necessary. Dispose of the old oil in an environmentally friendly way. Dave
    #2
  3. thelouv

    thelouv ocd

    Joined:
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    Sounds pretty straight forward. Thanks for the hint about how the oil projects out. The most difficult part may be getting a new crush washer ahead of time. Start adding to the list of chores for next weekend.
    Thanks again!
    #3
  4. mitchapalooza

    mitchapalooza Rider is Air-cooled

    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2010
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    Location:
    Bethesda, MD
    The drain plug torque spec (per service dvd) is 40nm or 29.477ft/lb.

    The filter (who torque checks this anyway..:huh) is 14nm or 10.317ft/lb.

    The drain plug crush washer is part number "11 41 7652949"

    What other specs can I spew out from the service dvd for you?

    Hope this helps.

    -mitch
    #4
  5. thelouv

    thelouv ocd

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2008
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Cajun Country, LA (Lafayette)
    It does help. Any idea if I can get a proper size crush washer from a normal auto parts house? The closest BMW dealership is over an hour drive away. Although perhaps I can convince them to drop one in an envelope & mail it to me. Then they know what I am doing. But alot of us do our own maintenance. Especially given the sparsity of the dealer network. I might chat with a friend of mine that is the German service mgr at the local MB,BMW auto dealership here. For kicks, I'll give him that part #.
    Thanks again.
    #5
  6. jessehere

    jessehere Ridin'

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    Jersey(EXIT 10)
    I just anneal the old copper crush washer and reuse if I dont have one handy.I heat it up till its red hot on the stove and reuse.
    #6
  7. thelouv

    thelouv ocd

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    someone else told me you can just flip it over and get 2 uses from 1 washer. then get a new one for the next time.
    #7
  8. L8APX

    L8APX Slightly Oversquare

    Joined:
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    In a pinch, I have used the old copper washer up to 3 times without a leak. I always torque the drain bolt to spec (about 30 lb-ft).
    #8
  9. 'Flagger

    'Flagger ..this space for rent..

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    10mm hole? Gotta be a feature added to newer models. My '09 doesn't have this.
    #9
  10. B-B

    B-B out of my lane

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2008
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    Location:
    N. Georgia, USA
    Yeah mine is like 24mm bolt, no hex cap type.
    #10
  11. Tor

    Tor Norwegian Viking

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    South Carolina
    I have used the washer on my ST ever since it was new. It now has 70000 miles on it. 70000/4000=17 point 5. Never a leak. Doing the same on my F8GS.
    #11
  12. jkosc1

    jkosc1 n00b

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    Oct 12, 2010
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    Location:
    Hamilton, Montana
    the 10 mm "hole" appeared on the 2010 model
    #12
  13. Y E T I

    Y E T I Unpossible

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    BMW recommends replacing the older style with the new as the bolt-head strips pretty easily.
    #13
  14. Stackator

    Stackator F800GS goodness

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    North Ryde, NSW Australia
    Read your bike manual in particular the part about getting the bike up to temperature (when the fan kicks in) prior to checking your oil volume. It's a very straight forward oil and filter change to do.
    #14
  15. OZZY-DUCK

    OZZY-DUCK Been here awhile

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    wow I can't believe it but I managed to round off the head of my drain plug:huh(by the way I have a 2010 model and it sill has a 24mm Aluminium plug?)
    Anyone have any good advice as to how I can get the bastard out?:eek1
    Any help would be appreciated!
    #15
  16. Motoriley

    Motoriley Even my posing is virtual

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    Cut a slot in it with a dremel and use a thick washer clamped in a wrench as a screwdriver blade. Flatten one of the sides of the washer to get more contact and make sure the fit is tight. I have the 10mm replacement sitting in my toolbox so I'm hoping I can get the 24 out....
    #16
  17. 4TooMany

    4TooMany Been here awhile

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    Aug 23, 2011
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    Ann Arbor
    Just in case anyone's reading this (like I did) before their first oil change, on my 2012 the drain plug is a 10mm Allen. I have no idea when they changed exactly, but be aware to check before you go out and buy a 24mm socket (like I did).
    #17
  18. Flashdog

    Flashdog Long timer

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    Always use new oil to lube the fresh filter's o-ring.
    #18
  19. malloy

    malloy Been here awhile

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    THE FOOTHILLS
    OZZY-GS: Take a chisel to one of the flats on your 24mm bolt head and hit it hard in the off (counter clockwise) direction, getting it to dig into the flat. This should "unfreeze" it. You can use a bolt grabber (http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10-p...p-00952166000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1) if the head is severely damaged.

    CheckarD's advice "Tap it LIGHTLY with a hammer to help it break loose." is a minimum when removing the drain bolt. Some BMW techs say to set your allen key or 24 mm socket in place on a breaker bar and bang it hard on the off direction or lightly in the on direction then hard in the off direction. So OZZY, you are not alone :lol3.
    #19
  20. MikeMike

    MikeMike Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2009
    Oddometer:
    4,150
    Avoid all this in first place by doing your own oil changes and tighten the drain bolt nice and snug.
    Get a Sharpie and put a nice thick line on the drain bolt at the 12 o'clock position and look at it from time to time.
    The 10mm bolt is not a good idea IMHO, it looks like it was made simply to have people have difficulty removing it.
    Amazing how Motorrad can source a 10mm drain plug but not decent front disk bolts.
    Only use a 6 point socket on the conventional drain bolt. Forget the copper washer, I have reused mine a half a dozen times
    and it doesn't leak a drop, the drain bolt never comes loose, and you can forget the idea of torquing the oil filter, too.
    #20