F800GS R/R Mosfet replacement....How to...

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by ebrabaek, Apr 13, 2012.

  1. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    I will mount the unit in the am......and do a few on the road tests. and post the results... But what I have seen so far is promising. In recap.... I was told this is a mosfet shunt R/R with Japan as origin.... Until tomorrow.......:thumb:thumb

    Erling
    #21
  2. WayneC

    WayneC Long timer

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    Interesting on the AA designation, the Shindengen is japanese but unless they have upgraded the unit the fleabay seller is a bit liberal with the spec.

    Would be good to get the actual spec document from Shindengen. I cant see it online at their web site

    All up though, none of the F650 single users have reported problems or failures so your change should work very well
    I noticed a while back the F8's have far better cooling to the VR than the stock locations on the single
    #22
  3. Hicks

    Hicks der Überluber

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    +1
    #23
  4. lawe

    lawe lawe

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    Great writeup Erling!

    One question though: The three yellow cables. Do they run parallel or do You have to connect them to the R/R in a specific order? I couldn't see that in your post.

    I guess it one from each stator and the individual order doesn't matter, but it would be nice to get it confirmed :-)

    Lokks as it's not only the 800GS with this issue:

    http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php?topic=12507.0

    http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/...p-R-for-a-Shindengen-FH012AA-(MOSFET)-R-amp-R

    http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-tri...-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade.html
    #24
  5. Gangplank

    Gangplank Advenchaintourer

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    So why did ya get the shunt type instead or a series type?
    #25
  6. Indy Unlimited

    Indy Unlimited Long timer

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    The issues with the Compufire series type R/R is that the available power output is about 60% of the Shunt style so if you run heated clothes and other items you may not have enough to keep the batttery charged.
    The real issue is lack of internal cooling it would be great to have an oil cooler pump cooler oil onto the stator side and help the stator.
    I plan to just send the stock stator out for rewind every 25,000 miles and run the MOSFET and call it good.
    #26
  7. WayneC

    WayneC Long timer

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  8. LukasM

    LukasM Long timer

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    Nice work Erling. Even though our bikes are not known for failing R/Rs like some others, if the MOSFET one solves the problem with charging voltage it's a (fairly) cheap and easy upgrade. I am still thinking that the series R/R would be even better if it helps with stator life. So far I haven't read about any failures from the Aprilia and Triumph riders that made the switch...



    And one suggestion if I may, knowing that you are a crafty mechanic who likes to all your own work, I think a good set of open terminal crimping pliers is a worthwhile investment. Especially on a motorcycle with all the vibrations it's nice to have an even stronger mechanical and electrical bond in addition (if you ask some engineers even instead of) the solder.

    Should look more like this:

    [​IMG]
    #28
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  9. vtbob

    vtbob wanderer

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    FWIW
    Just noted that the Shingdigen(sp?) is fused at 30 amps...this is 360W. The BMW system/stator is rated at 400W.
    It may not be up to meeting the loads of a "good" stator.
    #29
  10. WayneC

    WayneC Long timer

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    The BMW stator will be rated as per the GS single figures below

    Max Power is at 7500 rpm 29 amps at 14v ie 406 watts

    Suggest checking the manual or RepRom for the spec
    #30
  11. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    The closest I got to the specs was the link posted above.....

    http://www.shindengen.co.jp/product_e/electro/catalog.html

    Looks like the 30 amp version.:thumb:thumb

    Erling
    #31
  12. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Nice catch.... I did not indicate that...... So thanks for bringing this to my attention. The first post will be corrected. The 3 yellow wires from the stator are each on the out side of the windings. Picture a hazard triangle you see with stalled cars on the road.... There is a wire connected to each corner. They are the same, and because of such it does not matter which one goes where on the R/R....:thumb:thumb

    Erling
    #32
  13. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Because it would be the least intrusive R/R to install. The shunt type, is what we have, makes the stator run hot...... The series takes the load of the stator, but now the series R/R will run very hot, and airflow and cooling is an issue. This was a small step.... But I might try the series R/R in the future. The series R/R is also quite larger, and heavier. Remember the primary goal was to raise the charging voltage so the battery's would not die a slow death. I think I have accomplished that. second... By perhaps raising the voltage I am hoping that just a tad less heat will be crated in the stator, prolonging it's life. The second one is a long shot at best. But if a small reduction of the output wattage via a resistor, as Joel explained, could alleviate the stator issue.... I am thinking, that by raising the voltage..... I could accomplish the same....without a sacrifice in out put. Long shot as the energy gotta go some where...and 400 watts is ....ummm....400 watts.:thumb:thumb

    Erling
    #33
  14. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Thanks Lukas.... It is kind of funny..... I have never owned a crimping tool......and solder has carried me through so far. I agree that the connections would look better..... If I had one.... I would sure use it. But I like my ghetto style crimp...finished of with a solder. :thumb:thumb

    Erling
    #34
  15. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    400 watts divided with 14.4 volts equals 27.77 amps..... well within the fused 30 amp rating. The continous duty of this R/R is 30 times 14.4 equalling 432 watts. I was told my the importer that this unit has been tested and holding up at over twice that load. And nice thing rather than melting...shorting... When/if it overheats, it simply shuts down, until it cools enough....where after it then re engages. Oh dear.... I have another canbus unit on my bike....:eek1

    :thumb:thumb

    Erling
    #35
  16. WayneC

    WayneC Long timer

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    If you combined your solder finish, sealing the joint with the better load relief on the insulation LukasM uses, then you really would have the best quality. So while we are being horribly picky, where you joined the wires as well, they should have been twisted together so they did not rely only on the solder for the joint
    #36
  17. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Cant argue that..... But I will stick to what I have experienced through out my life soldering.... ( quite a bit actually..:D).... I have yet to have one wire come off... But perhaps this will be the first. So gent's...Lady's... If you own a soldering tool you should use it, if you don't..... have at it... Ghetto style..... I think either will hold up... One looking prettier than the other though.....:thumb:thumb

    Erling
    #37
  18. Cesar Serpa

    Cesar Serpa Adventurer

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    <TABLE class=tborder style="BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: 0px" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" align=center border=0><TBODY><TR title="Post 18454919" vAlign=top><TD>ebrabaek do you already measure the temperature of the stator?

    </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
    #38
  19. Kawidad

    Kawidad Long timer

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    KLR's too. :deal
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  20. Gangplank

    Gangplank Advenchaintourer

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    And Suzuki GSXRs
    #40