F800GS R/R Mosfet replacement....How to...

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by ebrabaek, Apr 13, 2012.

  1. WayneC

    WayneC Long timer

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    The Croatian VR's are clearly a low volume production, they are using general over the counter electronics heat sinks
    Nothing wrong with that at all but any large scale manufacturer would have heat sinks cast up to suit

    The Serbian rider who contacted me has emailed the VR Co & the reply is below

    "The Croat responded (my translation, the original text below)

    BMW800gs max rev speed is 9000 rpm. The only model we can offer with guarantee is 14V-3FHVSP-30A-AX. 141*88*25mm, 5 wires,

    Price per unit cca 87eur, price for 2-9 units 79eur.

    He has no previous experience in sending abroad, yet my experience says it is possible but would add some cost on the top (say cca 40eur) and would probably require 3-4 week delivery time for the most economical shipment option."

    Considering the info above Lukas's offer to pick up a unit for testing is probably the best bet to get one quickly
  2. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    The vendor of my Mosfet, has a Chinese made for Harly series R/R....... that he thought might work...... In case anyone is interested in testing it...Post up, and I will try to provide where to get it.....:thumb:thumb

    Erling
  3. tofire409

    tofire409 Geared up and ready.

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    I have been following this and the stator threads and I'm try to understand something.

    What actually fails in/with the stator?

    I have seen the pictures of the blackened stator... so is it an insulation failure that leads to wire conductor failure?

    Would using a high heat epoxy as the insulator work in preventing the burning (failure) of the stator?

    My GS still has 2.5 years of warranty left, but I'm hoping that either a recall or a good/reliable aftermarket workaround happens.


    Thanks to all of you that are testing for the rest of us :thumb
  4. WayneC

    WayneC Long timer

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    ebrabaek

    See if you can get specs from your vendor on that Harley VR, As Joel indicated the US vendors for the Harley VR did not seem to know much & it suggested to Joel as per his recent post perhaps they were purchasing from China,

    Without specs we cant really do much to decide if they are suitable & blowing a stator in trying them is not really an option
    What you are testing was a safe bet with a VR we have used on F650 & F650GS singles for some time
  5. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    :thumb:thumb

    Erling
  6. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Roger that...:thumb:thumb

    Erling
  7. Mike.C

    Mike.C Stelvio Dreamer!

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    Anyone have a source for the SHINDENGEN MOSFET FH020AA R/R? I can't find anyone on the net who says they have stock.
  8. WayneC

    WayneC Long timer

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    Mike do you mean the FH012AA ?
  9. Mike.C

    Mike.C Stelvio Dreamer!

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  10. WayneC

    WayneC Long timer

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    Interesting, will keep my eye out, it is not listed on the Shindengen web site as yet

    Re the Co in Croatia, further back in the thread LukasM offered to pick one up on his next business trip there
    That would be the best way to get one as he could mail it as a sample to where ever
  11. JRWooden

    JRWooden Long timer

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    About a month ago, I contacted one of the major electronics importer shops.
    They figured finding the part would be a cinch (I gave the both the -12 and the -20 P/Ns),
    they have offices in Japan and spread across Asia...
    The guy came back empty-handed about a week ago.... :cry

    PS:
    If you have not read the latest on this thread:
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=706033
    (page 27 - post 399)
    BMW has re-designed the flywheel to allow the stator to be cooled by air/oil flow....
  12. lawe

    lawe lawe

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    I had luck and got a Shindengen FH020AA regulator from roadstercycle.com. Don't think he got any left though....

    [​IMG]

    Got the local shop to cut and bend a stainless bracket
    [​IMG]

    Cut the old wires, did some soldering and mounted the bracket. As You can see I moved the regulator a bit up/forward compared to stock since this little baby with it's connectors is a bit longer than the stock r/r .
    [​IMG]

    Almost done! (I know: They are owersized. But the wire was in the package and I think they look nice :D)
    [​IMG]

    Done!
    [​IMG]

    And the result at idle after 30 seconds :clap
    [​IMG]

    It's no problem mounting the regulator. It took me an hour or so. It fits nicely where the stock regulator is. The hard part is getting hold of a Shindengen regulator.

    Hopefully my new Deka battery will have a long and prosperous life now.
  13. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Det ser findt ud..... Very nice and clean install..... At least your battery will be good from here on out.....
    Hej hej..
  14. JRWooden

    JRWooden Long timer

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    Lawe:
    Very nice!
    If you saved the old harness plugs could you please post the part numbers and mfg. data from them?
    I am looking into an alternate fix for the crappy stator and need to source plugs.
    If you don't have them no big deal I'll take mine appart when I get home ... I'm on the road now and don't want to be messing with stuff at the moment :lol3
  15. lawe

    lawe lawe

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    I didn't touch any harness plugs on my install. I just cut the wires 3 inches from the stock regulator and soldered new wires onto them. You can see in one of the pictures where the yellow ones from the stator are soldered with the fat red ones.
  16. JRWooden

    JRWooden Long timer

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    Ahhhhhhhhhhh ok, thanks I wasn't sure which side you cut into ... better the R/R side to be sure!

    Thanks!
  17. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Ok....so after many busy days... I finally got to making the aluminum bracket for the R/R......Left...Aluminum...right.... ummmmm... CF....
    [​IMG]
  18. JoelWisman

    JoelWisman Long timer

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    Looks awesome! Now if you really want to go all out, sand or blast it till the finish is matt, or anodize it and you will have the maximum in heat conductivity, radiation, and emicivity, but that will be overkill :)
  19. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Thanks Joel......I am planning on having it anodized.as it sort of stands out like this. I was sitting looking at the setup,and was pondering weather the bracket could act as a negative heat transfer....capturing all the engine heat...delivering that to the R/R..... But I suspect that that heat is less temperature wise than the heat coming of the R/R. Been a while since i worked thick aluminum.... Almost ripped off my arm when the hole saw caught....:rofl:lol3
  20. JRWooden

    JRWooden Long timer

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    Here I have a slightly different opinion than Joel.....

    REAL overkill would be sandblast then anodize and THEN apply heat sink ("thermal") grease to the metal-to-metal contact points between the R/R and the bracket, and the bracket and frame-tube :rofl