F800GS Rox Riser Install

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by ]I)Money, Jan 11, 2009.

  1. ]I)Money

    ]I)Money D NOT I

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    Yes, I do have abs. It is the line from the handlebars down to the first block on the forks.

    part number 34327700781. number 1.

    [​IMG]
    #21
  2. robhar54

    robhar54 Been here awhile

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    Cool, thanks for that. Now, you say another half inch would be sufficient (let's say 1.5" to be extra sure) then all we need is the length of the original part and the spec on the banjo bolts to get Spiegler to make up a replacement line that's "1.5" longer than stock."

    I'll have a look tonight and see what I can see.

    Rob in Seattle
    #22
  3. ]I)Money

    ]I)Money D NOT I

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    Yeah, I'd definitely go for more like +1.5. Curious to see what you come up with.:ear
    #23
  4. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Don't Panic

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    I'd do the extra 1.5" and go with the Rox Adjustable. Even with a 30mm riser from Twisted Throttle they say you can't rotate the bars rearward. With me, that's the whole point. Thanks Rob.
    #24
  5. dotpac

    dotpac n00b

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    Will that be enough length to accomodate the Rox 2" pivot risers? Is the clutch cable long enough?
    #25
  6. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Don't Panic

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    Hey Rob, did you ever get some specs to Spiegler so we can order the longer brake line? Thanks,

    Jeff
    #26
  7. robhar54

    robhar54 Been here awhile

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    Hey Jeff,

    I just sold a Voigtlander lens to one of my riding buddies so I can now afford to do this! :D So I have just gotten back into it. I have not yet test fitted the risers.

    So far though it looks to me (and the guys at South Sound) like to be completely safe the line should be 3" longer, or 17" total center to center of banjo bolts. I have an e-mail into Spiegler asking whether they have type of banjo bolt that is on the bottom, attached to the ABS transfer box--the one with a little nib on it. If not, I'm guessing we'll have to buy a stock brake line and send it to them to cannibalize.

    I am looking into having Motion Pro build longer brake and clutch cables as well. This means buying the stock cables, and sending them to Motion Pro to extend. Since they'll not be readily available (say if one breaks on a trip) I'm going to get two of each made up at the same time. Doing this will ensure, of course, that they will never, ever break. :rofl

    Probably overkill...but...I sold all my other bikes so I could pamper this one. :1drink

    I should know more about prices in a few days, and hopefully will have pics of the complete install in two or three weeks, I'd guess.

    Rob in Seattle
    #27
  8. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Don't Panic

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    Rob, looks like we're headed down the same path. I've been holding off buying an extra clutch and throttle cable until I sort out the riser issue. I'd also like to have an extra set for a XC trip coming up: The slave cylinder seal went on the clutch of my 640 one time and I ended up at a drug store buying mineral oil to get the clutch working again, so I'm now into belt and suspenders when it comes to that stuff. Thanks for all the work you're doing.

    Jeff
    #28
  9. Bicyclist

    Bicyclist Been here awhile

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    I can save you a couple of bucks here. The clutch cable from an F800S/ST is 3 inches longer than the GS cable. Ends are the same. PN 32 73 7 653 518.

    I'm working on a bar change on my ST. Guessing that the GS cables might be longer, I had the dealer order a pair. Turns out the GS throttle cable is 3 inches longer than the ST one (yay), but the clutch cable is 3 inches shorter. :becca
    #29
  10. robhar54

    robhar54 Been here awhile

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    Hey, that's great news. (For us! Not so much for you...:cry ) Thanks for sharing that tidbit. :clap

    Any other differences? (Like the rubber protection around it, maybe?)

    Rob in Seattle
    #30
  11. Bicyclist

    Bicyclist Been here awhile

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    Yes, the rubber protection extends up to about 1 1/2" from the top end of the GS cable, but to only 12" from the top of the ST cable. I doubt that would be an issue, though. Certainly worth a look.

    So, yer screwed on the throttle cable and I'm screwed on the clutch cable. The other thing to look at is the wiring from the switches. It looks pretty tight on the wiring running down to the ign sw on my bike.

    I'd be interested to hear what Spiegler has to say about the brake pipe ends.
    #31
  12. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Don't Panic

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    Rob, I was playing around with bar rotation and for the hell of it measured the current brake line length while I was in there. Granted, my method was a little "shade tree-esque" using a piece of safety wire bent up and held against the brake line, but I still came up with about 17" c/c, which should be +/- 1/4". I'm curious as to where you came up with the figure of 17" being 3" longer than stock. Or did I mis-read your post?
    Also, if I had to guess, I'd say the little nib is a fitting that'd turn out to be common with several models. The "nibbed" banjo bolt fittings I've seen usually had some type of housing, and the nib kept the banjo bolt from rotating into the housing when you snugged it down. But that's only a guess. It'll be interesting to see what Spiegler has to say.

    Jeff
    #32
  13. robhar54

    robhar54 Been here awhile

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    Hmmm, interesting, and thanks. I got that figure from the guys at the shop. I best check it myself! I did test fit the Rox Risers yesterday, and lock to lock no issues with the throttle with the risers rotated from straight "up" (in line with the angle of the forks) to rotated forward, so that's a huge relief. I did not check it with the risers rotated back (toward the rider, beyond the angle of the forks.) It appears I won't need to change clutch or throttle cables for where I want them. The brake line definitely will need to be longer than stock. More later tonight...

    Rob in Seattle
    #33
  14. Bayner

    Bayner Long timer

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    I've seen on some custom bikes where guys had used a neat idea for a brake line. You basically buy whatever length of hose you need, comes in steel braided or rubber coated or whatever, and the individual ends you want. The 2 screw together with some sort of compresion fittings, perhaps even a flare and they look really good. If I think to ask next time I talk to a pal, I'll find out where they come. May be the easier route...
    #34
  15. robhar54

    robhar54 Been here awhile

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    Hey Jeff,

    I measured the upper brake line using the same technique tonight, and mine is 15.25" center to center. I wonder if this is something that has varied in the production of the bike. At that 15.25" length I could just get the bars to sit in the Rox Pivoting Risers, but the line was very tight. I also took the Rox Pro-Offset risers I had on there off, to see what stock arch of the line looked like again. I'm going to order up a 17.5" c-to-c line from Spiegler and be done with it. My fiendish plan is to eventually install an Emig Racing top triple clamp and Revolution II damper, which I expect will be close to the same height.

    [​IMG]

    I want to get the position exactly right with the pivoting risers before I order that up. (He hasn't done one for the F800GS yet.)

    Rob in Seattle
    #35
  16. llamapacker

    llamapacker Mr. Conservative

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    I installed the ROX risers (shown by OP) on my wife's F650GS, brake line barely makes it, the clutch cable does not. Had to reroute the clutch cable behind the triple tree, good to go.

    Be sure and check full lock to right and see if the clutch is pulled in (watch the clutch lever at the crankcase).
    #36
  17. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Don't Panic

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    I don't know Rob; I think I read somewhere, maybe a competing F800 Forum, that bikes produced at different times may have slightly different parts. Possible, I guess. I'm going to go the same route as you and just order up the line in a length I know will work. What banjo bolts are you using, and did you resolve the "nib" question? Thanks.

    Jeff
    #37
  18. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Don't Panic

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    Rob, did you get that brake line yet?
    #38
  19. robhar54

    robhar54 Been here awhile

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    Should be arriving early next week. I went with a 17.5" length. Also ordered a F800ST clutch cable, and picked up the TT fender riser kit, which includes a longer lower brake line. Figured since they'd have to bleed the brake lines might as well do that at the same time. I'm not comfortable doing the ABS brake stuff myself, so I've got an appointment at South Sound this coming Friday to have all that installed. I'm afraid it could well be a very expensive installation (in terms of labor cost), so I sure hope it all fits, and fits me well.

    Pics and report will follow.

    Rob in Seattle
    #39
  20. robhar54

    robhar54 Been here awhile

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    I didn't answer your question... Here's the request I put in:

    [​IMG]



    Type: ???? We want flexible, not rigid.
    Length 'A', center to center of banjo fitting hole: 17.5"
    Distance L1: tight to banjo fitting -- some type of additional protective hose
    Length 'U', length of rubber casing: ~9.5" See stock line.
    Brake line color: Black
    Banjo fitting color: Titanium
    F1 (top): Type 022, lateral left 20º + 20º bend Please confirm. Looking down from above the bar, the fitting ought to bend to the RIGHT, and DOWN. I THINK this means, if the fitting can be installed upside down, it ought to be this one, the 022.

    [​IMG]

    F2: The bottom fitting I went with the Type 019, 90 degree bend, and decided not to worry about the nib.

    [​IMG]

    Rob in Seattle
    #40