F800GS Spark Plug Replacement How-To..

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by GoneAgain, Oct 28, 2013.

  1. GoneAgain

    GoneAgain Huh?

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    So it was time to change my spark plugs.. searched all over the world for some 'instructions'.. couldnt find anything definative.. did find a few very usefull tips..

    Is there a 'how-to' somewhere..?

    (if there isnt, is one worth doing..? (i took a few pics along the way:evil)

    cheers...!
    #1
  2. chriselgui

    chriselgui Been here awhile

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    How many miles before you decided to change them?
    #2
  3. MikeMike

    MikeMike Long timer

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    So you want to change your plugs?

    Buy regular replacement plugs, the fancy ones won't make any difference.
    Make absolutely sure you have the correct wall thickness on the socket you are planning to use. There is fck all space in there and you can easily jam a regular wall thickness socket and then you are seriously into some overtime to get the job done. Double check this. If you are using the tool that BMW sells it will fit, but many normal plug sockets have too thick a wall and will jam.

    If you do not have the tool to pull the coil sticks, try to either buy one or borrow one. If not, you will need strong fingers and a lot of patience.
    DO NOT TRY TO LIFT THE COILSTICKS BY THE CONNECTORS ON THE BACK!
    They will simply snap off and then you are going to be paying out the arse end for a new one(s). They are expensive.

    Use a slight amount of anti-seize on the new plug threads, DO NOT USE OIL, and use some dielectric grease on the coilsticks, small amounts here.

    Make sure you have all the tools you will need before you start, if not you will be tempted to improvise and likely break something made of plastic.
    Whatever it is will be expensive, too.

    Think about changing your air filter at the same time if you haven't done so in a while.

    Don't forget the hose connections and hose routings on the bottom of the air box chamber, it can be possible to kink these or not connect them properly and then you will have issues.

    Unless you have at least 20,000 miles on the plugs, don't bother to change them. Think about doing a valve check at the same time if you haven't done so, you are half way there so you may as well think about that.
    Work slowly and use a new valve cover gasket unless you really enjoy the job and can't wait to open things up a second time.

    Both the Haynes and the factory disc manuals show the procedure, PM me if you need pics or something.

    I did mine without the coil stick puller tool, I did not use the piece of wire method nor the pry gently with a screwdriver method, I used my fingers.
    One trick is to reverse fold the rubber boot on the coil stick and avoid the back part where the connectors are. The reversed rubber boot gives you some added grip. They will come out but it takes a while and you will be tempted to go for a lift on the connector stub, resist that. I've seen some that were very difficult even with the puller tool.

    Since I was not sure about the wall thickness on the socket I was using, I measured the 3 that I had and took the one with the thinnest wall thickness (notice how much I am emphasizing this). I attached it to a long T-driver and used duct tape to firmly hold it on the T-driver. I then very slowly lowered it in (the plug tunnels are fairly deep) and made sure when it just began to make contact that it had no side to side movement, meaning the socket was on the plug correctly and fully engaging it, but I also had upward movement meaning I wasn't jamming it in the tunnel.

    The plug socket I used was an old one that had a decal on it. The decal was scraped off the socket, that is how narrow the tunnel is. Most normal plug sockets will be a millimeter or more too large on the wall thickness. The Craftsman sockets I had were all too thick, by the way.

    If you have the coil stick puller and a known good socket, the job is very simple, don't forget to give a good cleaning of the throttle bodies while you have them exposed. It is a little monotonous, make sure you have some good music playing.
    #3
  4. bmwroadsterca

    bmwroadsterca RadioFlyer

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    Can anyone suggest a name brand socket known to work in this application? Thanks.
    mike
    #4
  5. Reaver

    Reaver Outta Here

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    BMW is a name brand tool. :rofl

    I bought the plastic coil stick remover tool from the Dealer. I think it was $10?? For occasional use only but we have 2 bikes and it works. The trick is to smear dielectric grease on the outside or the coil AND put a squeeze inside as well. This will make next time much much easier.

    I used my Craftsman socket all greased up then went through 2 beer trying to remove it on the second plug. Lazy me really. If you have time and a grinder, remove the chrome on your socket and keep it for plugs only. Otherwise, price it out at the Dealer. My grinder is ready and my valve check is due.

    Plugs are changed on the second valve check. There is NO need to do it just because. After 40K kms, they don't even look bad so think about why you want to change them.

    Yes, there was a thread from a guy who's wife thought he was useless so he decided to prove her wrong by changing his own plugs. After F'ing things up real bad he posted a "Mayday" and we never heard back. I think wifey done him in. :huh

    Oh, and just check Dieselboy's Cam Chain replacement thread as it starts out with accessing the valve cover.HERE and go to post #61 to start.
    #5
  6. Reaver

    Reaver Outta Here

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    Spark-plug socket, Removing/installing spark plug
    Part No.
    83 30 0 401 695 - Max BMW Lists $59.56


    Removing ignition coil
    Part No.
    83 30 0 401 700 - Max lists at $61.38. This is the aluminum shop tool and not the plastic occasional use one I bought.

    7 673 248 - this is part of the PN found on my stick removal tool. I need the prefix. Can't find it in my RepRom.
    #6
  7. Bill-66

    Bill-66 Hencho in Kansas

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    Run a $10 socket down to your local machinist..$10 will remove half the wall thickness..:deal
    #7
  8. Reaver

    Reaver Outta Here

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    Perhaps vegasgsa is right
    #8
  9. MikeMike

    MikeMike Long timer

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    He is right.
    Also, the coil stick removal tool is about $25 bucks anyplace other than from BMW.
    According to some people, the plastic ones can break or spread uselessly if the coil sticks are particularly difficult to remove. The metal ones for $25 bucks won't do that.
    I have a suspicion that not only Rotax have the narrow plug tunnels, a place that sells bike specific tools will likely have a thin wall socket for under $20.
    The BMW one comes with the extension piece. You might be able to borrow one from a guy who has a factory tool kit from an earlier model GS.
    Be worthwhile to ask around.
    Whatever you do, do not break a coil stick or crack the air box chamber.
    And don't get a socket stuck in there.
    #9
  10. dpm

    dpm Been here awhile

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    #10
  11. bmwroadsterca

    bmwroadsterca RadioFlyer

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    Would some kind soul who has one of these BMW sockets, or any socket that actually works, please measure the outside diameter (or the outside dimension at the hex points if that is greater) and let us all know so that we can either find an equivalent or know by how much a socket needs to be machined down?

    Thanks a bunch.

    mike
    #11
  12. Reaver

    Reaver Outta Here

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    While not answering your question directly:

    Spark plug measures 17.63 mm on the points of the flats which is the largest dimension.
    My "almost" socket measures 22mm OD giving a wall thickness of 2.12mm.

    So by my quantum physics calculations I'd say 21mm OD would be adequate. It's a low torque on the plugs so thinner is ok.
    #12
  13. itsatdm

    itsatdm Long timer

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    #13
  14. GoneAgain

    GoneAgain Huh?

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    No... already done it... was just asking if anyone thought a 'how-to' was worth me spending my time on..:lol3

    didnt know if it was viewed as 'too simple a job' to be worth the effort (writin those things up takes a lot of time/effort...! :deal ) or if there was one already wich i didnt find and would just be duplicating..

    ..

    I used a Kincrome 5/8, part number ZDA26DC.. even has a magnet in it...

    [​IMG]


    .


    its 22mm wide and was an easy fit down in there...

    [​IMG]



    .
    #14
  15. MikeMike

    MikeMike Long timer

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    And the coil stick remover of your choosing was?
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  16. Reaver

    Reaver Outta Here

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    Serves me right for not thinking outside the metric box. My 5/8 Mastercraft spark plug socket is 21.25mm. Bet it works just fine.


    :doh
    #16
  17. MikeMike

    MikeMike Long timer

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    Canadian Tire aux go go!
    #17
  18. GoneAgain

    GoneAgain Huh?

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    i went the good ol' fingers route.. :evil

    [​IMG]

    first one came out easy... second was a lot harder..

    but yeah, got a firm grip on the top with one hand and pulled, while holding that little 'careful you dont break it off electrical socket' with the other and turning it from side to side (only about 5mm each way...)

    did the trick..

    its only 3 rubber ridges that is holding it in, once i had one out and saw this i wasnt so worried about breaking it...

    [​IMG]

    .
    #18
  19. JRWooden

    JRWooden Long timer

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    That's a lesson I've "learned" more than once ... :lol3
    #19
  20. bmwroadsterca

    bmwroadsterca RadioFlyer

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    My thanks to those who posted information about the outside diameter of sockets that will fit down the tunnel.

    I spotted a 16mm spark plug socket by EMGO at a local dealership and picked it up for the princely sum of $7.20 Cdn. This socket has a maximum diameter of 21.0 mm so it should work nicely. It has the rubber insert to hold the head of the plug and interestingly it has a hex shaft that can be driven with a 10mm socket. The EMGO number is 84-04116. It is said to be a replacement for the Honda tool #89216-KYZ-700.

    On page 76 of the EMGO catalog found here:
    http://www.emgo.com/images/pdf/2013_Filter_Mirror.pdf

    mike
    #20