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Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by nzcvlh, Mar 18, 2010.
Mike from Traxxion did say they (which we do not do any more) use the stock caps I believe.
With the Traxxion Caps the numbers are slightly different because of the cap length but they all equal out. The bleeders would not eliminate the preload adjustment. The caps would have Spring Preload on both sides, Rebound on the right and Compression on the left. Both caps would have the bleeder valve as well.
Preload Spacer 215mm
Oil Level 115mm (125/150 7wt Maxima Oil)
Compression Valve 2 turns out (3 total Turns)
Rebound Valve 2 Turns out (3 total turns)
Preload set 7 turns in (15 total turns)
Price 1249.99 $ 1299 for bleeders.
Pricey but it is a proper fix
You can install yourself or they will do it for 150$:huh
Ok, heres a query. If you were to use a dirt bike fork on a dual sport bike (f800 etc), change the travel (possible), change the spring length and rate (possible) what about damping? As said earlier I think dirt bikes (high speed) road ish bikes (low speed) damping. If the valves are set for high speed what happens when oil weight for a road ish bike is added? Is there a problem with the oil flowing through other parts of the fork?
Those are all pieces of the suspension pie, not individual components. When setting up suspension you have to consider everything, and how it all effects everything else. If you were to install a dirt bike fork on the 800 (as some people have), you would modify the valving to work with the characteristics of the 800. To not do so would pretty much completely defeat the purpose of swapping forks, not to mention you could very well end up with worse suspension.
Bike type does not dictate oil weight. Most suspension tuners have one or two off the shelf oil weights that they'll put in all of the standard customer forks they do, from stiff track bikes to squishy trail bikes. Typically only for very low tech kit or for very high performance race machines is a different oil weight considered, and even then its usually not that different.
One thing to understand is that, while the high speed damping is stiffer on a road bike (that sees less big hits and has less travel) than a dirt bike, there's nothing inherently different between the internals of a street and dirt suspension--its just the specific tuning that's different. Different shim sizes and shapes, different shim stack profiles, sometimes different piston orifices/geometry...but that's about it. You could tune a sportbike to be as plush as a dirtbike off road (up until it bottomed out its 4" of travel), and you could tune a dirtbike to be as stiff and controlled as a track bike (but you would use a fraction of its 12" of travel).
If you are looking for the best set up for a bike for both street and dirt, the best you are going to get is a compromise.
Cartridge forks are typically set up with certain terrain, weight and rider skill in mind. To achieve that, a spring rate is determined and a particular valve shim pac is chosen that will work best with a limited range of oil viscosity.
Most good cartridge forks have adjustments that the rider can change to slow or allow more flow through the valves on both compression or rebound, some even allow separate adjustment for low and high speed flow. Changing the viscosity has minimal good effect, it may even be detrimental causing the opposite of what you are trying to achieve. A small change may extend the range of adjustment available to the rider.
Once the internal parts are chosen, you are limited to the external adjustment for compression and rebound with some forks having more than others. I think most riders find that sufficient, because if you are starting with a dual sport bike, suspension is not going to make it competitive with a race bike anyway.
Bxr140 you are too quick for me tonight. See anything that contradicts you?
Nope. Spot on.
I spend almost that much on my Shiver 45 swap and I'm still not 100% with them. If I were to do it again, I'd just get an off the shelf solution.
Bitubos still kicking ass. Just sayin'...
Rebuilt only once and about 13,000 miles on them now.
Hey Johngil, what did the rebuild run you, if you don't mind saying? I'm due for an overhaul as well, if nothing more than fresh oil. 30k kms, but nothing too brutal...
Rebuild and re-valve ran $300.
The shop had to fabricate a part to pressurize the cartridge, so I may have paid into that.
I have the contact info if you need it.
Talk to Tige or James
Wait you upgraded to these and still had to have them rebuilt with in 13K?
Once a year is normal. Oil, seals etc. don't last forever.
I am reading these with all of these good suggestions and solutions but have not read one that suggests using a KTM adventure fork set up which I understand is fully adjustable. Could it be cost, availability or just a matter of principle?
300 bucks a year to maintain your front shocks is normal? That include shipping?
$300 included machining a part needed to charge the cartridge.
Normal service is around $125-150 depending on parts.
I seem to remember my WP forks being around $90 or so.
The extra $$$ is most likely because of the cartridge design.
The Traxxion forks would be around the same as the WP forks and need service yearly as well, so I guess I'm missing the point.
I'm guessing you don't service your suspension. Or do you do it yourself?
You've got to keep in mind it's a gas charged unit... not quite the dump the oil and go kind of setup most are used to.