F800GS Valve Adjusting step by step.

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by Camel ADV, Sep 26, 2010.

  1. gapek

    gapek n00b

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    GNP77 are you sure that this should be an M6 bolt ?! I've just tried to lock the crank, but M6 bolt is too small... I think that this should be an M8!
    #21
  2. Camel ADV

    Camel ADV Long timer

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    Umm, not sure. I wrote that at 4am so I very well could have made a mistake on the size. It should be the same size as the handle bar clamp bolt so yeah, likely an M8.

    Edit: Yeah just double checked it and it is an M8. Sorry for the misinformation.

    Cory
    #22
  3. gapek

    gapek n00b

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    Thanks for the info, I'm doing the valve adjustments right now and your posts are like a Bible to me ;)

    I noticed one thing, in the BMW DVD service manual is stated that to measure TDC on cylinder #2, you have to rotate 360 degrees… it does not make sense, because after full 360 rotation you’re back in TCD #1 position. I did like you have posted: 180 degree rotation, IN and EX marks and in the same level but pointing in opposite directions – front and rear of the bike.
    I’ll post some more info when job will be finished.
    #23
  4. itsatdm

    itsatdm Long timer

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    I am not sure, I understand what you did or you understand what the manual meant to say. The cams move at half the speed/distance of the crank. 1 360 degree rotation of the crank puts the valves TDC on the compression stroke on #2, but the cams have only moved 180 degrees.

    In a 360 degree twin like the 800, the pistons rise and fall together, but fire alternately. It is a 4 stroke so it requires 2 revolutions of the crank for the cylinders to complete the cycle, ie 720 degrees. On the timing marks on #1 for both cam and crank, you are on TDC for the compression stroke, cam lobes fore and aft. Turn the crank 360 degrees, ditto for #2. Another complete revolution of the crank, back to #1.

    Sounds like you did it right, based on the location of the cams fore and aft, when you took the measurements. The marks on the cam faced away and not inward.
    #24
  5. Camel ADV

    Camel ADV Long timer

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    I'll go back and clarify that point. Because you (or I did anyway) rotate the motor with rear wheel, it's tough to watch the timing mark on the crank and turn the tire at the same time so I was watching the cams, which as itsatdm said rotate 1/2 as much as the crank. The BMW manual is correct stating that the crank should rotate 360 degrees for the #2 cylinder check.
    #25
  6. Camel ADV

    Camel ADV Long timer

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    I assume those big nuts are BMW tools to ensure even pressure is applied before tightening the outer fasteners? If that's the case, there's no mention of it in the shop manual (on my DVD anyway).
    #26
  7. KWE

    KWE F800GS

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    #27
  8. KWE

    KWE F800GS

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    :knary Sorry I'm from Germany but a caliper is not accurate enough for this measurement. :bueller
    #28
  9. Camel ADV

    Camel ADV Long timer

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    I didn't actually use them for measuring the shim thickness. I had them out to show how small the shims are.

    The sizes are stamped on the side of the shim so no measuring is required.
    #29
  10. Lost Roadie

    Lost Roadie Rider

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    :lol3

    Oh German perfectionist n00B... Welcome to ADV, but might I say you should sit back and learn a few things from people that have their shit together before you speak. :deal
    #30
  11. KWE

    KWE F800GS

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    Ups.....:jump
    That's right.
    I have not read all the text but I saw a caliper and the dimension.
    Because of many peoples do the same mistake and this is a part of my daily work I wanted to say that.
    Good to be here and learn something.:evil
    #31
  12. GB

    GB . Administrator

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    Have you noticed the Index thread that's stickied here? It's in there.

    Now imagine half those threads stickied and you'll get an idea why we keep stickies to a minimum.
    #32
  13. lunaticTR

    lunaticTR Adventurer

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    Hey GNP, good work. I have a question though. Did you have to change the valve cover gasket? My service guy said he had to, because it was deformed. And these twins (mine 658) have some leaking issues from the cover, so I guess he did now want to be bother with a leaking gasket and just replaced it. I was not charged for the part, so it was fine by me. :D
    #33
  14. Camel ADV

    Camel ADV Long timer

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    I didn't change it at the same time as the valves, probably should have. I replaced the original at about 25,000km as it was leaking badly. It started to seep after about 5,000km. The second (current) one has about 15,000km on it now and hasn't leaked a drop so I threw it back on.
    #34
  15. rustynutz

    rustynutz Useless sod

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    This is a great write-up GNP77, but may I suggest that in future, you clean your bike before you open it up. I absolutely cringe at the sight of the mud & grime in the vicinity of your valve gear. :eek1
    #35
  16. Camel ADV

    Camel ADV Long timer

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    Yeah, I know! Below is the 4th paragraph of the first post in the thread!


    #36
  17. TheCowboy

    TheCowboy back in the saddle again

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    Holly Crap! Looks a lot more complicated than the valve adjustment on my trusty DR650. It looks like a winter project to me...

    But THANKS for posting - greatly appreciated - I've been waiting for someone to post the adjustment procedure for a long time.

    TheCowboy
    #37
  18. ironbutt84

    ironbutt84 Time Traveler

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    What is the mileage interval starting with the first one and then the routine interval till the next one in miles please?
    #38
  19. Camel ADV

    Camel ADV Long timer

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    I *believe* every 20,000km/12,000miles. I've been doing mine closer to 12,000-15,000km as that seems to be the mileage when the valve cover gasket pulls an Exxon Valdez. I figure if I'm in there that deep I may as well check the valves out. 65,000km so far (4 checks so far) and everything is still in spec.

    Cory
    #39
  20. ironbutt84

    ironbutt84 Time Traveler

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    Thanks for the info, I'll be sure to stay away from the Exon gas, maybe it won't leak then.
    #40