F800GS Valve Adjusting step by step.

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by Camel ADV, Sep 26, 2010.

  1. JRWooden

    JRWooden Long timer

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    Cowboy:
    depending on how the valve springs are pushing on the cam ... which depends on the position of the cam you may see more or less slack in the chain... spin yours around until you have the intake cam sprocke roughly where it is in the pic. and see if yours gets less-slack?

    Here's the starter pic from the manual:

    Attached Files:

    #61
  2. JRWooden

    JRWooden Long timer

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    A new spring ... really.... I had not heard that ...
    Have you got one installed?
    I'm guessing it is a stiffer spring? :wink:

    Would you have the P/N of the new spring? Max lists: 11117715438 but I don't know if that's the old one or the new one... I'm guessing "old"?
    #62
  3. TheCowboy

    TheCowboy back in the saddle again

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    Thanks JR - exactly what I was looking for.... now off to check the gaps...

    TheCowboy
    #63
  4. TheCowboy

    TheCowboy back in the saddle again

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    OK, the motor is at TDC as verified by the picture in the manual. I can't even get a .002 gauge between the cam lobe and follower on the #1 exhaust or intake.... Could it really be that tight?? I hope I am doing something wrong. First check in 52,000+ miles.... man you should have seen the gap on the spark plugs... you could have driven a car between them....

    am I doing this right?? :huh

    TheCowboy
    #64
  5. JRWooden

    JRWooden Long timer

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    Check the lash on #2 for grins....
    maybe you are one turn of the crankshaft off?
    It doesn't seem like you could be ... if so the cam sprockets wouldn't look like they do in the picutre....

    Are the follower arms that run on the cam lobes on the "base circle" of the cam... the "pointy end" of the cam lobe should be ~180 degrees away from the cam follower ... or pointed "up" I think....
    The top camshaft bearing plate seems like it would make it a bitch to get the gauge in there ....
    I've not had my engine appart so kinda guessing....
    #65
  6. TheCowboy

    TheCowboy back in the saddle again

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    Yeah JR that is what is kinda funny, the lobe of the camshaft is actually on its side when contacting the follower - the pointed end sticks up about 45 degrees, not 90 degrees like you would think. The feeler gauge is pretty dang hard to get in there, but you can do it.... I just want some clearance of some kind.... BTW - I bought some heat wrap today and will fit it on after I get the valves adjuster... it is suspose to reduce the heat off the exhaust by 50%, or so it claims.... that might help from burning the stator.... to me it was bad engineering - but sometimes those boys can't see the forest for the trees....you know whats I mean...

    TheCowboy
    #66
  7. TheCowboy

    TheCowboy back in the saddle again

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    OK, Im good... Intakes were at .008, exhaust at .012 - mid range... now let's put that expensive gasket on....

    TheCowboy
    #67
  8. David13

    David13 Been here awhile

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    Cowboy
    Do not forget to put some sealer on that gasket or IT WILL LEAK. And you don't need to redo it.
    JR
    Yes, a new larger spring; I don't know what years, and what models it was limited to. Mine was a 2008 ST. However, according to the parts fiche it's the same on the gs. But it doesn't show a new number or superseded. And I know a lot of guys who replaced it and reduced timing chain noise considerably.
    dc
    #68
  9. JRWooden

    JRWooden Long timer

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    thanks dc!
    I'll be ordering that beefed up spring!!!

    Cowboy:
    Manual says to only put sealant on the left side not sure why, but here's what the fatherland says:

    Attached Files:

    #69
  10. JRWooden

    JRWooden Long timer

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    I hear ya .... glad you got the valves checked!

    A little bit of oil cooling in the stator area would have gone a long way I think .............
    I'll either be wrapping the header or maybe doing the coating ...
    I"m sure adding the bash plate does nothing good ...
    The BMW version does have some slots in it to aid air flow, but still ..... :cry
    #70
  11. TheCowboy

    TheCowboy back in the saddle again

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    The most difficult thing in this process is getting the valve cover off because of limited space. I do not know what the book says since I do not have one yet - however, I removed (disconnected) the clutch cable and the throttle cable to get them out of the way... it made all the difference in the world.

    As far as sealant only on the left side - well look at where your valve cover is leaking from...only the left side. Why is that? look at the design of the valve cover - the left side has no place to secure it and the two half moon shaped gasket area is prone to leak - lousy design.... any of us could have told the engineers that. So let's just hope that some sealant in that area will make up for the brain-dead engineer who came up with that valve cover.

    I initally put my old gasket back on with a bunch of sealant all the way around in hopes it will seal just fine... I am rethinking it... I have just reinstalled the cover and torqued the bolts... I am pulling it back off and installing my NEW gasket kit following the instructions in JR's message above... I was going to try to save money by installing the old gasket but if it leaked I would be spending time pulling the whole thing back apart... and for what - a crummy $85.00? Let's do the smart thing.... not the cheap thing.

    TheCowboy
    #71
  12. David13

    David13 Been here awhile

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    I didn't have any trouble getting the cover off. I had trouble getting it back on, with enough sealer to seal it, and then not smudging the sealer. What I did was practice about 10 times, maneuvering it in without knocking out the gasket or smudging the sealer. Then I did it. No leaks.
    I don't know how many stories people told about the dealer doing it, and having a leak after, having the dealer "fix" it, and having another leak.
    So I say don't skimp on the sealer. It will save you having to go back in there.
    dc
    #72
  13. JRWooden

    JRWooden Long timer

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    Yeah... it only took me till I was about 35 to start doing the smart thing.... :lol3

    I understand that in the new kits that the rubber "stand-offs" ... are redesigned to be a bit shorter to add more "crush" to the gasket ... so now you feel even better about that kit right? :wink:
    #73
  14. TheCowboy

    TheCowboy back in the saddle again

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    I also PRACTICED putting the valve cover back on because of all the sealer smuge.... there is only one way it slips in there without knocking the gasket off and smearing everything with sealant.... so good idea to practice first.

    Now my issue is what is correct torque for the cover? I don't understand 10 whatever it is.... how about inch pounds? got a clue? anyone?

    How about somebody taking the maintenance manual and translating it into english? you know, pounds, inches, feet, ect....
    or am I just being an ugly American :lol3:lol3

    TheCowboy
    #74
  15. JRWooden

    JRWooden Long timer

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    10 Nm is what they want ...

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    #75
  16. ba_

    ba_ Long timer

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    10Nm in foot pounds
    #76
  17. TheCowboy

    TheCowboy back in the saddle again

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    Cool, but what is 10 Nm? in in lbs or ft lbs? I am stupid and do not know what Nm means

    TheCowboy
    #77
  18. Second chance

    Second chance Adventurer

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    C'mon man you're giving us a bad name. :roflClick on the link ba_ provided.
    #78
  19. David13

    David13 Been here awhile

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    No torque wrench will give you 7 foot pounds. You just need to use your judgment. Good and tight.
    dc
    #79
  20. Bushav8r

    Bushav8r Been here awhile

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    Too tight will likely deform the cylinder head cover and induce an oil leak.
    #80