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Discussion in 'Airheads' started by chollo9, Sep 30, 2012.
...so you did the monoshock mount your self?
Love this build except the dash. Way to high. If you ever have to duck under an unnoticed tree limb or swooping bird you may need plastic surgery on your face.
Sorry, been off the grid for a few days . . .
Engine is on the bench for tear-down. At the very least, the heads will be rebuilt, timing chain et al replaced, new rings, clutch, and a bunch of gaskets and seals renewed. Some chassis refinements and a new exhaust are also planned.
The rear fender is an Acerbis (and it is mounted to the bike orangebear ). I got it a long time ago, but I think they can still be found.
Thinking about adding a second story to the dash . . .
Will update as progress is made.
1st off...that thin is a beauty. Well done.
2nd off; "Far from finished"....just thought I would mention, I believe every bike I have ever had was always "unfinished"....even my brand new 2002 1150 GSA....became far from finished. So that said...as a work in progress, that thing is a work of art who's paint will always be wet.
Keep in mind, opinions are like as.....oh you know the rest. Half of the shit I do on my ST I don't post here for that very reason.
I like it. I usually like stuff that is different. That ones different.
Those don't look like BMW switches and controls on the handlebars. What are they? How easy to mount up?
Patrick C Buckl--you are too kind, thanks.
Jenna--if my skin were thin, I'd have never built it, let alone posted it here!
disston--Domino/G2 throttle, Honda CR master cyl & clutch lever, Yamaha kill switch used as a starter button. I made the LH switch by using a universal throttle as the housing, and used push-button switches to control horn, turn signals, and high beam. It works well functionally, but they're a little too spread out to be great when it comes to ergonomics. Oh, they were a PITA to get right.
Sometimes I carry this DIY shit too far.
what happened to the engine that made you tear it down (again?) ?
When you get it sorted out, more pics please.
The bike just has a spunky, energetic look to it.
This is its first teardown by me.
Have one exhaust valve that has little adjustment remaining--assume it's either mushrooming, the seat is bad, or both.
Needs a timing chain and sprocket(s).
Since I don't know the true mileage, I want to inspect things pretty deeply while I'm at it.
And I need to do some minor frame mods so the engine had to come out anyway.
The bike is a lot of fun. Solid on pavement, stable on gravel, and the last ride before I tore it apart was on some powerlines and trails that were rutted, hilly, and muddy in the low parts.
It needs some fine tuning, but it does what I was shooting for.
With some of these descriptions I feel like I am on a dating site...
It does have the most beautiful blue ...tank.
This place is a freaking dump--I try to keep the farm outside but I keep tracking it in.
Still a big lump for a day or two. Doing nasty bathroom pre-paint prep for non-paying customer*.
Don't any of the bikes around here run? (Prototype for new dash under sheet in background).
Cleaned the shop, cleaned the engine, and pulled the RH head today. Planned to do more, but the head would not come off the studs. It would slide until about 1/2" still showed, and then stop. Hard. Metal against metal. Once I found it was the top right stud, I slid it back and forth a few times, not hard, and when I would push the head all the way in, there would be a very small aluminum sliver.
I wasn't willing to slide hammer it off, so I double-nutted the stud out and slid it and the head off together. Couldn't see anything through either hole with the stud in there, but I tried a couple different chemicals and working it back and forth hoping that maybe it was corrosion that was making tight clearances too tight. No luck.
So, all or nothing. I drilled a clearance hole in a pine workbench, slid the stud through the hole, let the cylinder head gasket surface rest on the wood, took a long 1/4" drift, and knocked it out. The first hit was surprisingly solid, and the rest were pretty good taps, but I had to push it 3/8" before it was free. The hole is clean inside, but it, and the one next to it, looks like it has a step in the bore, maybe they didn't go deep enough when it was machined. I'll just touch it up with a hand reamer and it will be fine.
I don't know about you, but here's what I'm thinking. I'm guessing that I'm the first person to tear this engine down since it left the factory (I don't know the bike's history). When it was built, Otto, the assembler, turned to Udo, the foreman, and told him the the head wouldn't slide onto the studs and should he reject it. Udo said, "Hit it with a hammer, it's 4:30"
More to come . . .
Well, there's your problem. You got the broom with the bristles on the wrong end. That broom is for sweeping spider webs off ceilings. You need the broom with bristles on the other end for sweeping the floor.
Y'all yankees so smart. S'no wonder ah don' git nuttin' dun.
Damn, where mah other boot?
Okay, am I just ignorant here? Should the sleeves that go in the head stud holes be removed prior to removal? Was this the source of my problem above?
I've never had to do anything extensive to airhead heads before, and my R75/5 heads came off and on easily.
Cylinder heads and cylinders have always pulled off after removing the 6 nuts. Never heard of a problem like you are having. You could take all of the studs off.
More teardown today. Same issue with the stud holes on the left side--this time two would not slide through (I was mistaken in my prior post, when the head stopped sliding on the stud, it was well below the top surface of the sleeve. My recall wasn't too good last night after a couple of drinks ). Pic below shows how far they would go before stopping.
Same as yesterday, I had to drift them out. This pic shows the bits of aluminum that were pushed out.
Pulled the valves, and the suspect (RH) exhaust looks like crap:
So does the seat:
This is the left, for comparison:
I checked the exhaust guide play, just to see:
The left side was 12, for comparison.
I forgot to take a pic of the maxed out valve adjuster, but I think you know what that would look like.
Also got the cylinders and pistons off, but didn't have time to inspect them really. No obvious nastiness.
Gotta go work on other peoples' German junk tomorrow, but maybe I'll get in the shop in the evening.
Right now, I'm gonna watch recorded Supercross!
No pics, but got the timing chain cover and chain off tonight.
No surprises, cover came off w/o heat, no heavy wear apparent, endless chain in place.
Cut chain off with bolt cutters--easy peasy, japanesy.
I'll get the puller and the heat ready for the top sprocket & bearing for next time . . .
Those tight studs are what I call an anomaly alert. I haven't got a clue. I think you're right. Just knock them out and ream or round file the holes.
It is always fun to speculate on Otto and Hans at the factory.
Those seats look just fine, not sunk at all. Should dress up just dandy.