Far from finished, but on the road!

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by chollo9, Sep 30, 2012.

  1. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    The only reason I can think of for these studs to be difficult is maybe they are bent? Like from a severe accident and maybe the damaged valve cover was replaced but everything else kept working? Check the studs for straightness. See if other studs fit better. ?
    #41
  2. chollo9

    chollo9 Screwed the Pooch

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    First thought I had, too (not the same route, but the same result). Rolled all three on a surface plate and they're straight.

    The holes are just undersized, a relatively minor manufacturing error. Maybe they were machined right before a tooling swap.
    #42
  3. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    Ok
    #43
  4. chollo9

    chollo9 Screwed the Pooch

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    Got a little more done today. But first, a couple of pics I left out previously. This is how close I was to running out of adjustment on the RH exhaust valve:

    [​IMG]


    And the tensioner as it looked when removed:

    [​IMG]


    Here's the puller set up and ready to remove the top sprocket. I pulled the bearing by itself with a heat gun and got it out of the way before I got started here:

    [​IMG]


    After heat/preload/heat/preload/etc. it eventually slid off and looked like this:

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Lower sprocket looks like so:

    [​IMG]


    So, no drama here. Just a straightforward removal and clean up.

    Next I need to check piston, ring, and bore wear.

    See ya!
    #44
  5. Houseoffubar

    Houseoffubar HoFmetalworks.com

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    Very strange, the undersize stud holes?!? Maybe the studs got wet, and swelled up? :lol3

    I will popping off the top end of my bike soon. I am curious to see what the valves, seats, etc. will look like.

    Thanks for the good write up, I've been enjoying it!
    #45
  6. chollo9

    chollo9 Screwed the Pooch

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    The funny thing is I assumed it hadn't been apart--but I've found evidence that it has been. The cylinders and pistons are marked L & R (and were either reassembled wrong, or marked incorrectly).

    So, how did it come apart, go back together, and THEN, after the studs have slid through the head casting at least three times--be tight like this when I take it apart?

    Oh well, the holes have been reamed so they are all 10.5 mm.

    But if they are tight when they come off next time . . . :lol3
    #46
  7. chollo9

    chollo9 Screwed the Pooch

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    Some work going on around here lately, but mostly waiting on parts and such.

    Ordered Excel rims and stainless spokes from Buchanan's--the spokes were flaking and some were seized, but the main problem was the rear rim had this crack:

    [​IMG]

    Made a couple of widgets while waiting for stuff to come in.

    Footpeg pins:

    [​IMG]

    Breather to replace speedo cable:

    [​IMG]

    Then I had to make a driver for the rear main seal. It has a few extra holes because I used a piece of 1/4" aluminum that had been used for some other face plate adapter thing previously--no sense using virgin material:

    [​IMG]

    Got a box of parts from MAX and started putting things together. Rear main seal installation:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    New timing chain, crank sprocket, bearing, tensioner, and spring:

    [​IMG]

    Currently filing piston ring gaps and waiting for my heads to arrive . . .

    While the chassis sits waiting patiently:

    [​IMG]
    #47
  8. Houseoffubar

    Houseoffubar HoFmetalworks.com

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    Very cool!
    I love me a homemade tool:D
    #48
  9. hardwaregrrl

    hardwaregrrl ignore list

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    Looking good:thumb. Hey man, lets get a better shot of the fairing? First I've seen of it. I want a side shot with the instruments. Wishing you were on the Sandblast list.
    #49
  10. Airhead Wrangler

    Airhead Wrangler Long timer

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    How have I missed this until now? Nice.
    #50
  11. chollo9

    chollo9 Screwed the Pooch

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    Thanks y'all.

    Yeah Fubar, there isn't much I like better than making my own tools!

    I'll get a pic for ya, Jenna, but after I get the other mods (refinements?) done in that area. The "fairing" is the upper half of the enduro HL/numberplate from my GasGas in the background. I just cut the headlight part off of the bottom--it covers up the wiring and crap, don't know if it "fairs" very much. Wish I was goin' to Sandblast too, but funds are pretty low these days--I've had to fall back on logging to make ends meet, and I enjoy logging about as much as I enjoy hanging sheetrock! Oh well, better days are around the corner . . .

    Thanks, AW, your opinion means a lot to me--and as an aside, every time I pass a "Watch for Tractors" road sign (which is often around these parts), I think of your awesome avatar. :thumbup

    :freaky
    #51
  12. chollo9

    chollo9 Screwed the Pooch

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    Just a quick post to show something I was a little proud of.

    My rings were worn out, but piston clearance was within spec. Instead of ordering standard rings, and hoping the gaps would be okay, I bought first over rings, with the intention to file the gaps to size. I had not done this in a long time, and previously always had access to the special tool for the job. Not now. So, I thought I would do it the old-fashioned way--clamp a file in a vise, and laboriously slide the ring along the top of the jaw, square to the file. Cut and retract, cut and retract, ad infinitum. I practiced this on an old oil ring for a few minutes that seemed like a few hours before I started looking around the shop for something better.

    Now first, let me say this: when it comes to metal removal, hell, when it comes to working on things in general--I'm a fucking luddite. I prefer files to disc grinders. I prefer hammers to nail guns. I use copper pipe. You can use PEX in yer trailer, sorry, mobile home. Anyway, back to what I was talking about, that shit wan't even really relevant.

    I looked around and found this grinding attachment I made for my lathe a few years ago. It's nothing really accurate, but it's useful at times. It's a Dremel handpiece that is clamped to an angle plate (I bolt it to the cross-slide for light grinding).

    So, I put a cut-off disc in it, clamped it to a table, clamped a 1-2-3 block next to it for a work surface, and I had a nice little mini-grinder. Yes, I know you shouldn't use cut-off wheels as grinding wheels, but I was using very light pressure, just taking little "buzzes" off. After a little practice it was easy to control, well it would have been easier if my eyes were 20 years younger, but never mind about that (I'd give up one nut for that, seriously).

    Anyway, a picture, or two, is worth more than all the crap you just read, so:

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    It was still a tedious job, but it at least it was only a TWIN! :clap
    #52
  13. Houseoffubar

    Houseoffubar HoFmetalworks.com

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    I am so going to do this, Thanks for the great idea!!!
    #53
  14. garthg

    garthg Been here awhile

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    Sorry to ask what may be a stupid question, but how did you get the new timing chain on?

    Thanks.:ear
    #54
  15. chollo9

    chollo9 Screwed the Pooch

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    Not stupid A-tall.

    There's a master link, but you can't see it in the pics because it goes in from the front and the clip goes on the backside (there's not enough clearance between the chain and the engine case to insert it from the rear).

    The original chains were endless and had to be replaced by sliding the chain and both sprockets off of and into place all at the same time. People remove them different ways these days, I, and many others, cut the side plates with bolt cutters.

    It's kind of fiddly to get the clip on the back of the chain in the space allowed, but not too bad. The single row chains used on later models can have the master link installed with the clip on the outside.

    And there are folks around here who know a LOT more about this than I do--there are other threads about it in ADV.
    #55
  16. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    The first time you put a timing chain master link pin on a dual row chain on an Airhead it will take two hours to get that clip on the master link pins sticking out the back, that is if you don't drop the clip and it falls into the oil pan so you have to now take the oil pan off which will add a third hour to the time of putting the clip on the pins.

    The second time you do this it will take fifteen minutes.
    #56
  17. boxerboy81

    boxerboy81 Stay Horizontal

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  18. chollo9

    chollo9 Screwed the Pooch

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    Hey, since you're a bicycle guy too, you should know that the handpiece clamp is made up of mostly mountainbike parts. Two cantilever brake posts are bolted through the angle plate, Then I used two clamps (the blue anodized pieces) from some uber-cool cantis from the 90s (Wilderness Trail Bikes, I think) with a piece of 1/2" PVC water line split lengthwise. I was lucky to have the clamps as they were just the right size and pretty stout, but I'm sure you could find something suitable in YOUR junk box!

    As an aside, at one of the bicycle shops I worked in, my nickname was "Riggums"! :wink:
    #58
  19. ME 109

    ME 109 Long timer

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    Chollo9, what's with the nuts on the timing chain tensioner? They look perilously close to falling off. :eek1
    #59
  20. chollo9

    chollo9 Screwed the Pooch

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    The nuts both have a threaded shoulder on the backside (one piece). The tensioner spring sits in the recess of the lower one, and rides over the upper one. I didn't pay any attention to it since that's how it was when it came apart, but since you asked, I looked at MAX's fische and it doesn't show a special nut like this.

    What do other folks have? I'm starting to think I have a freakmobile . . . :eek1
    #60