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Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by climberevan, Dec 23, 2007.
Awesome report, thanks for sharing.
What always amazes me is all the COLOR on the people, when the landscape is fairly monochromatic.
Keep the non-bike stuff coming. I can't believe some of the roads you took!
As a female rider (not passenger) I have had many wierd looks while in MX and Costa Rica. I find that if you dress conservatively and trust your senses, you don't have any problem. For some reason the local girls can walk around half-naked, but don't flaunt your blond hair and fair skin. Don't ask me why
FABULOUS ride report, I am soooo jelous!
WOW, the road in Guatemala blow my mind. I would love to go back there on either a real dirtbike or a motard. Something like a Ducati Hypermotard would be criminally fun....
Anyway, thanks for the comments, everyone. Once again, doing the report makes the entire trip more fun for me, and i definitely take many more photos than i would otherwise. I'm glad that you all like the non-riding stuff--i'll try to keep it coming.
So, Antigua is fun, and i enjoyed sort of taking a break from the stress of constantly moving and constantly being on my toes. It was nice to just hang out in cafes and speak English for a change. A big priority was to acquire some new English-language reading material, since i'd finished my last book (I, Rigoberta Menchu) a while ago. There are 3 good-sized bookstores in Antigua that specialize in English language books, so i did some browsing.
Random pretty shots from the city:
One thing that struck me as strange throughout Antigua was the presence of these tiny tiles. They were always against walls, and seemed to denote handicapped access, but there was never anything of the sort anywhere nearby. It remains a mystery. At least they were aggressively filling potholes in the unbelievably rough streets.
I did manage to leave gringoland long enough to do something i really enjoy: attend a futbol game. It was a pretty small game, but the fans were nevertheless rambunctious. The guy with the drum was pounding on it and blowing into a whistle throughout the entire game--it didn't seem to bother anyone, but i didn't sit near him. Apparently the rat tail remains popular in Guatemala, for unexplained reasons.
I left town and headed toward Atitlan past some great farming country. They seem to grow a huge variety of crops.
And so we have arrived at the insane roads section of the story. I was having so much fun it was hard to stop to take pictures!
The obligatory Atitlan shot:
Lunch on the road was ok, but not spectacular. In general Guatemalan food is bland compared with Mexican food, and there seems to be less variety. Even a little salsa would be a nice addition. The tortillas, though, are excellent--always hand-made and thick. In some places they are made with blue corn, which is even more flavourful.
Leaving Atitlan i headed sort of northwest toward Huehuetenango. I got onto some more rural roads, and once again had a blast. The villages are just clinging to the steep hillsides.
I decided to veer off of the map onto some dirt, in hopes that it would connect with somewhere. After a while, i realized that i'd be doing an out-and-back, but it was still great. The gravel path ended and i kept going on the footpath--the people in the couple of small settlements i passed definitely didn't know what was going on. They seemed okay with my presence, but as always i refrained from taking photographs. It always amazes me when people get good photos of the native Guatemalans, since the people there hate cameras and will literally run away when one is pointed at them.
Back on the pavement, i relished the tight curves. Normally in the US i find that really curvy roads are rare--i mean 15 and 20mph marked curves. Faster ones are just too scary to take at a fun speed on the KLR, but on the slow ones i just lean it over, stick out my leg, and feel the drift. The K270s really wobble and slide around at extreme lean angles, but i'm used to it, and it sure is fun! Guatemala seems to have no shortage of roads with continuous corners that would be marked 10-20mph, and the riding is exhilarating!
After my time in the curvyness, i found a nice paved road heading NW on top of a ridge, and followed it....
VERY good stuff. Great RR. Any route lines on your trip?? I'd be interested to know your path.
You've definitely got the right idea! You're sharing your adventure with the WORLD, and it's damn good stuff.
Where else do I get a surreptitious look at someone's ongoing adventure, just by lurking in the background of the internet?
Where else do I get to witness the intimate approval of an adventurer's parent, who is witnessing exactly what I'm witnessing?
Where else do I get to learn about people, geography, customs and motorcycle travel in places the "big screen" never gets to?
Movie and TV documentaries are largely staged and/or re-created. Your stuff is spontaneous, actual and timely.
Keep feeding me, I'm an addict!
What he said!
So, where are you NOW? I notice you arent updating every day... (not that that is a problem) just curious as to your pace.
Great thread, as i sit over in Iraq and make my plans for future 2 wheel adventures, this certainly lets me know there are great things to do. I've got pics for my "recent" almost year ago trip from Germany to Scotland I need to get posted... love your style, keep it coming.
Apsafrickenlooteleyawsome! Keep up the good work!
Allow me to interrupt this broadcast to say THANKYOU to our man in Iraq! I hope to see you home safely in November(?), and I hope your next desert experience is in North America on a stealth 2-wheel vehicle. Meanwhile I'll keep you in my prayers!
Well, that paved road led to some serious altitude--the highest i've been on this trip by far. I have always felt at home in the mountains, and altitude makes me feel more alive, somehow, so i found this terrain to be exceedingly beautiful. It was also chilly--i turned on the heated grips and seriously considered stopping to put on another layer.
The villages up there at around 3400m (over 11,000ft) were not exactly teeming with life, but i found the vegetation and rocky terrain enchanting.
Soloma is the town below in this image. I stayed there that night, and it was the first time on this trip that i've been in a substantial town with no internet cafes. The hotel was pretty nice and quite cheap, but i was woken early by the usual cacophony of Latin American noises: bus horns, trucks, kids screaming the buses destinations at the top of their lungs, and of course, roosters. I will be glad to get back and enjoy some true peace and quiet--as tranquil as the mountain scenes are, if one is anywhere near a village or anything silence is a rare thing indeed.
Thanks for watching, and stay tuned for more.
- great report! thx for taking us along... be safe.
Ideas pumped into an I.V. sending info straight to my brain...
Un buen viaje, amigo!
Great photos Evan - thanks for the ride report. Makes me want to be there.
Evan, thanks for your Report.. I have been reading in disbelief, your adventure Rocks . I have been numerous times to the Pico de Orizaba, as I an originally from Xalapa, yeap!!! were they play lots of Rock & Roll.
Your courage to venture into Southern Mexico is admirale...keep it up and thanks.
Your thread is awesome,as are the photos Keep on keepin on.
I hope to take an adventure like this someday. Do you mind if I ask how much you have spent so far? I am trying to determine how much to save before trying a trip from dallas to Cancun. Any suggestions?
My life is pathetic I am not sure how I missed this one but man its just great. I am envious of your trip for sure and enjoyed every bit of it. Keep it coming.