FIRST TIME EVER!! I think. Electronic cruise on my 990!!

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by smitty141, Feb 2, 2008.

  1. smitty141

    smitty141 Been here awhile

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    Hi guys, just thought I would share this with everyone. I have installed the Audiovox CCS-100 electronic cruise control on over 70 Yamaha FJR's in the passed two years. So today I thought why not my 07 KTM 990.. The biggest problem is where to hide the servo unit.

    Here we go... Please remember all disclaimers apply!! Do this at your own risk!!!:freaky
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    Heres the only thing that shows... The control pad.
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    This was not a easy job, and it took me the better part of a day. I think it is a great farkle, and will be great to have for my trip to bike week and Key West trip in March.

    To start you will have to remove the fuel tanks and upper bodywork. You will also have to remove the airbox cover to be able to hook up the linkage. I started by setting the dip switchs in the servo. Here is the settings I used and have work great.

    1- on
    2-off
    3-off
    4-on
    5-off
    6-off
    7-on
    You also need to remove the black jumper near the dip switches.
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    I am hiding the servo under the right upper bodywork. There is room between the outer (orange) body and the black inner plastic. I also drilled a 2.5 inch hole in the inner body to run the wiring and servo cable out of.
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    I ran the servo cable under the speedo/tach and to the left side. You want to take up as much of the cable as posible. Then you feed it next to the throttle cables. There is a rubber gasket that the throttle cables pass thru to the throttle bodys. I noticed the is a spot for one more cable..SWEET.
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    Trim out the hole and your set!!!
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    Next you will have to drill a hole in the TB linkage. I used a 5/32" drill bit and a cordless drill. Just be sure not to drill to close to the bend in the linkage bracket. If you do it will be very hard to get a bolt/nut thru it. Sorry the pic is dark, but you will see a better one once the cable is hooked to it.
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    I used 3 balls of chain, and bolted the link to the TB linkage. This is needed so nothing will "hang-up" with the twisting of the throttle. Just remember there must be just a little slack at idle in the chain/servo cable. Also besure to work the throttle back and forth to make sure nothing hangs up.
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    There is a clamp that comes with the kit to clamp the servo cable to the stock throttle cable. Just do not clamp it to tight and pinch the throttle cable.
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    Next use the rubber gasket and put the cables in place.
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    Once you have this done you can replace the air filter and put the airbox back together.

    Wiring comes next!!!

    The kit comes with a control pad. I have made these brackets for the FJR's and just trimmed the tab off. Drilled a new hole and thats it. A bracket can be made from light sheet metal and bent in a vise.
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    I ran the control pad wires thru some plastic tubing for the factory look. I mounted the bracket under the left mirror. Simple remove the mirror and use it to hold the bracket in place. Run the wires along the bars with the factory wiring. Then run it with the headlight bracket to the left side of the bike.
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    There is two ground wires and two positive that needs to be hooked up. One black (gnd) comes off the servo and will need to add a piece of wire to it. Just cut the ring terminal off it and add some wire to it. Run the wire to the left side of the headlight. I tied both the black wires together then to a GOOD ground.. There will also be a grey and a red/orange wire to hook up. The gray controls the back lighting of the control pad. It can be tied to the red/orange to pick up power. Hook up the red/orange to a keyed power supply.



    There is three wires you need to run to the rear of the bike. A red, purple, and a blue with this tag on it.
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    The red and purple hook to the brake lights. The is a molex connector on the right side above the rear brake light switch. The switch is on the rear master cylinder. Red ties into the blue (bike) wire... The purple hooks to the white (bike) wire. I always solder every connection..
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    Next is the blue wire with the tag. You can shorted this wire if needed, just make sure you leave the resistor (under the tag) in place. If not, the cruise will not work!! It will solder to the coil wire on the number two cylinder. You will have to trim the plastic cover back a few inches to get to the wires. Next solder the blue wire to the blue with white stripe wire on the coil...
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    Next is the vacuum supply to the servo. I ran the hose (included in the kit) up the right side from # 2 cylinder. There is a vacuum fitting on the right side were the throttle body hooks to. Since I removed the SAS this fitting has been blocked off. If you look at it with the hose removed the opening is very small. I removed it and drilled it with a 1/8" drill bit and the reinstalled it. Slip on the hose along with a check valve. The one I used was from my FJR installs and came from US Plastics. They can be bought from local auto parts stores.
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    The vacuum hose runs to the servo on the right side.

    Heres the servo ready to be placed under the bodywork. And your done!!!:clap :clap
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    You will have to take your time and it will work fine. Make sure you tie all wires and hoses so nothing gets pinched. Ride safe and enjoy!!!:wink: :wink: Smitty
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    #1
  2. Venteuri

    Venteuri I don't give a shit

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    Congratulations, it looks complicated.

    I would never do that to a KTM, why?
    #2
  3. MR4WD

    MR4WD Adventurer

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    Carpel tunnel syndrome.
    #3
  4. cool dude

    cool dude Been here awhile

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    Bugger....I have had one of those sat on a shelf for ages but have not plucked up the courage to fit it!!! Was hoping to be the first too....dammit :rofl
    #4
  5. lc8john

    lc8john Been here awhile

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    Great post!!
    What's that front tire and size?
    #5
  6. smitty141

    smitty141 Been here awhile

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    It is a [FONT=Arial, Helvetica]Continental Trail Attack 110/80-19 on a set of Woody's wheels....

    19" on front, 17" on the rear... Smitty
    [/FONT]
    #6
  7. cpmodem

    cpmodem Orange Caveman

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    Excellent writeup Smitty. Definately fodder for the HOW.
    #7
  8. Monty_Burns

    Monty_Burns Excellent.

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    +1 on that. I installed the CCS-100 on my VFR. Much better than a throttle lock. I figure hiding the vac servo would be too hard on the 950/990, so I didn't try it - but I was hoping to be the first if I could ever figure it out.

    Smitty, have you ever looked into using the all electronic cruise controls? What do you think of those?
    #8
  9. crazykz

    crazykz Adventurer

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    I actually just asked this question yesterday on LDRider after getting back from the MC Show where I spent quite a bit of time looking at the 990.

    I would like to think this can be used as an LD rally bike but I need a cruise before I do anything else. Glad to know it can be done.

    Great write up and thanks for sharing.

    Curt
    #9
  10. smitty141

    smitty141 Been here awhile

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    I haven't tryed one or seen one. It would be nice if it was smaller, but it can be done. I rode it today and it was flawless... Smitty
    #10
  11. crazykz

    crazykz Adventurer

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    Since we're touching on the subject does anyone know how much available power there is from the 990's alternator?

    Curt
    #11
  12. Doug Matson

    Doug Matson Long timer

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    I know someone here did this to a 950 and I think he put the servo in the box under the seat, think I have the link saved somewhere. Pretty cool set up.
    #12
  13. Monty_Burns

    Monty_Burns Excellent.

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    950 and 990's both output 450 W @ 6000 RPM --- So says KTM's repair manual.

    FYI, the wattage draw from the CCS-100 is in the single digits. It isn't even an issue.
    #13
  14. Buckster

    Buckster Banned

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  15. crazykz

    crazykz Adventurer

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    I'm assuming that if you put the TT 11.9 tank on you lose the place where you put the actuator. True?

    Curt
    #15
  16. lc8john

    lc8john Been here awhile

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    Thanks! :D
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  17. smitty141

    smitty141 Been here awhile

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    Yes, you are correct. There would not be a good place to hide the servo with aftermarket tank. Smitty
    #17
  18. HellSickle

    HellSickle Scone Rider

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    Damn, I sure love google. I have one of these cruise controls that came on my KLR (yeah, go figure). I'm fixing up the KLR to sell , as I purchased the 990 last fall. This cruise control makes a lot more sense on the 990 and it did on the KLR, so I think I will probably go ahead and move it over.

    Thank you so much for documenting each of the steps. I'm not sure that the original instructions for the cruise control came with the KLR when it purchased it, so I can just follow your tips.

    (also having carpal tunnel issues. I just got my left hand fixed, but the right hand is going to have to wait until next winter)
    #18
  19. smitty141

    smitty141 Been here awhile

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    WOW, 5 years and my post is back on top... I just bought a 2012 990. I also have a Rostra electronic cruise (no vacuum needed) I may try to install it. With the Rostra, you need a VSS signal and a tach singnal to make it work.

    Now I need to find the wiring drawing for this new bike.

    Smitty
    #19
  20. HellSickle

    HellSickle Scone Rider

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    Hmmmm... The Rosta looks a lot cleaner. I like the idea of being able to put everything on the chassis, rather than inside the faring.

    For the VSS, did you have to install an additional wheel sensor, or could you tie into the ABS sensor that feeds the speedometer?
    #20