First time KLR owner

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by pabloxt500, Jul 29, 2013.

  1. pabloxt500

    pabloxt500 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2009
    Oddometer:
    88
    Location:
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    Hey Owners,
    I just purchased a 2000 KLR on Saturday that has been sitting for 2 years.
    Going to have a bunch of questions.
    First and for most, the doohickey broke while the PO was riding it. He waited to long to replace it. :/
    So everything is in boxes.
    The bike comes with a gasket kit and the good replacement doohickey, along with 2 spare bottom ends.
    One bottom end is good but came from canada and had the vin filed off. :/
    The other bottom end looks good, but the crank is bad.
    The original has a broken mounting stud near the doohickey location, so those cases are out.
    Any way, I'm thinking after inspecting everything and finding all the parts that are usable, I can transfer the inner bits to the good cases, do a rebore and new piston kit.
    Obviously i'll farm out the rebore, But should I just put it together myself? Or use a local shop?
    I've put other motors together, but nothing this modern. So, would any of you recommend a shop in Los Angeles to get the engine rebuilt at? Can any of you estimate the rebuild hours?
    The rest of the bike is fine. Only 25k on it.
    Panels need to be cleaned up, new chain, new battery, but that is for the rolling chassis.
    Any advice and comments are welcome.
    Thank you

    Mike
    #1
  2. Tsotsie

    Tsotsie Semi-reformed Tsotsi

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    Welcome!

    CA is the the home of several authorities on KLR's. Eagle Mike is in SD just down from you.

    KLR a modern design? Is that a joke? Same old, same old basics for more that 22 years now.

    You can do it if you have put a motor together before. Get a Clymer's manual if you need help..
    #2
  3. pabloxt500

    pabloxt500 Adventurer

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    I consider it modern as I normally ride vintage. :)
    (see signature below)
    #3
  4. APJ757

    APJ757 Been here awhile

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    Now that is a project! Good luck!


    Cheers
    #4
  5. Grinnin

    Grinnin Forever N00b

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    Swingarm bearings often have a skimpy supply of grease and can be a bear to get apart. Since this is a procedure that requires penetrating oil and time, now may be a good time to set it up to poke at once every few days.

    Even with only 25k miles on the bike the grease is 13 years old. You may want wheel bearings just because.

    If you've worked on older engines then you should be fine with assembly.
    #5
  6. pabloxt500

    pabloxt500 Adventurer

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    OK, i had this posted on the KLR650 forum but really wasn't getting any response. so I'm re posting it here.

    everyone says that the bike since its creation didn't change until 2007. why can't i just buy the race and bearing from the 87-96 and install it?
    both have the same part numbers for the left complete crank half. soooo.....?

    another question:
    i have a crank from one engine and different set of cases.
    can i just put the crank in the other cases?
    but wouldn't the roller bearing and race have worn different between the two?
    OR should i just take the race out of the bottom end i got the crank from and install it into the good cases?
    #6
  7. Kawidad

    Kawidad Long timer

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    I must be missing something, but you said the Canadian sourced bottom end was good, but had the numbers ground off. I case you don't know, those numbers are the engine numbers and not a VIN. The engine numbers are irrelevant to the registration of the vehicle in California. If it worries you, you can re-stamp the engine number with the original number using a stamping kit from Harbor Freight among other outlets. Far easier than the alternative. :evil
    #7
  8. DirtyDog

    DirtyDog Omnia mea mecum porto

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    :poser
    #8
  9. pabloxt500

    pabloxt500 Adventurer

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    i only ride vintage. so laugh if you will.
    #9
  10. Beezer

    Beezer Long timer

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    there is one bearing in the bottom end that you apparently can't buy... think it's the left main. post some pix of the damaged case


    Eagle Mike is a really good source of info on rebuilding the engine

    also, some general info from Big Cee:

    http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html#generalinformation


    1987: Crankshaft is unique to this year.
    1988: Beefed up the engine cases with extra bolts between the crank and countershaft; crank has a different part number, and may be lighter.
    1990: Countershaft improved with longer splines for increased engagement with sprocket.
    1992: Changes to front brake master cylinder.
    Mid-1996: Changed valve cover, added bracket to hold cam chain bumper; changed crank to heavier unit; improved clutch basket with more clutch plates; changed countershaft sprocket retainer from slotted plate to large nut; changed 2nd and 3rd gear ratios. Kickstarter no longer fits with new clutch basket. New left balancer weight/sprocket begins with engine #KLE650AE032206.
    (?) Service manual indicates higher charging system output; only part number change is the rotor. The new power rating is 17A/14V (238 W) @ 7000 rpm; the earlier one was 14A/14V (196 W) @ 8000 rpm (yes, above redline).
    2001(?) Assembly shifts from Japan to Thailand. Hard to say if there are any quality issues, as the parts still seem to be manufactured in Japan.
    2007: New shift lever
    #10
  11. pabloxt500

    pabloxt500 Adventurer

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    you can if you know where to look.:evil
    and i did speak with Mike just yesterday.
    cheers.
    #11
  12. pabloxt500

    pabloxt500 Adventurer

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    so much done today:
    frame drilled and better bolts installed
    new Renthals
    new grips
    trunk base plate mounted
    extra keys made
    painted pannier rack
    valve shims measured and ordered
    new right side crank bearing ordered(already have the left/both pieces)

    tomorrow:
    layout panniers on rack.
    remove wheels for new tires
    remove swing arm for new bearings

    question about the emissions cans.
    can they be removed without re-jetting?
    can you just block them off.
    #12
  13. pabloxt500

    pabloxt500 Adventurer

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    coming along nicely.
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    [​IMG]
    #13
  14. Tsotsie

    Tsotsie Semi-reformed Tsotsi

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    Nice!
    #14
  15. Kawidad

    Kawidad Long timer

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    Yes, just remove. No re-jetting is required.
    #15
  16. Mala Suerte

    Mala Suerte Been here awhile

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    People are getting a chuckle out of your modern comment, b/c the KLR engine has changed very little since its inception in '87. Arguably, it wasn't even cutting edge back in '87.

    If you've rebuilt the older bikes, you'll be fine w/ the KLR, it is pretty darn simple.

    A 685 or 705 kit would go well w/ your rebuild.
    #16
  17. pabloxt500

    pabloxt500 Adventurer

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    Oh, i get it.
    685 kit purchased and cylinder bored. :D

    just block off all spigots? carb,air box and tank?

    thanks for your help!
    #17
  18. danketchpel

    danketchpel Long timer

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    I'd highly recommend working with Eagle Mike or Wyman Wynn on a 685 kit if you're already looking at a rebore.

    I think Wyman stocks cylinders that have been correctly rebored for the 685 on an exchange basis. You might want to poke around on klr650.net a bit for more info on the 685 kit.
    #18
  19. Grinnin

    Grinnin Forever N00b

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    Look at the '84 KLR 600 and you'll see lots of identical parts and some changes. I don't know that the parts are interchangeable, but they look exactly the same.

    But then again 1984 was less that 30 years ago.
    #19
  20. pabloxt500

    pabloxt500 Adventurer

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    already had it overbored.:D
    now if Hollywood Kawasaki hadn't screwed up on ordering the shims, the head would have been done 5 minutes ago.:cry
    i've got 15 days to finish the rebuild, put the bike all back together and do a break in run. :eek1
    #20