Fitting a new speedo sensor

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by Ceri JC, May 12, 2011.

  1. Ceri JC

    Ceri JC UK GSer

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2009
    Oddometer:
    2,462
    Location:
    All over, usually Wales or England
    Despite having removed the rear wheel several times before, without incident, the other day I managed to knacker the speedo sensor of my F8 when I rushed a tyre change. For clarity, I'm talking about shearing off the little magnetic nub that is secured with a torx-headed bolt and reads the metallic speed/ABS disc on the LHS rear wheel hub. Bike is a 2009, non-ABS one.

    I've ordered a replacement from the shop, which has now come in and am debating whether to pick it up and try fitting it myself, or live without a primary speedo for 2 weeks (relying on my GPS one) and have them fit it when my bike goes in for a service in 2 weeks' time.

    I don't have the shop manual with me here so can't check, but I need to make a decision as to whether or not to bother going to the shop to collect it. Can someone please advise on how hard it is to fit and if there is any need for any reset of CAN BUS, etc. (as I don't have a GPS-911/similar) in order to get it working?

    Many thanks in advance.
    #1
  2. Bartron

    Bartron 'Tenacious B' the Bike Punisher

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2007
    Oddometer:
    713
    Location:
    Alberta
    I'll be replacing mine this weekend and can detail it for you if you like in this thread. Not sure if you can wait that long though.
    #2
  3. markymcd

    markymcd Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2008
    Oddometer:
    890
    Location:
    Vancouver, BC, Canada
    I replaced mine about a month ago. It's not that hard. You will have to take the seat off and then just snip the original cable at the sensor so you can 'push' the cable to see how it is routed. Don't get too stressed if you can't re-route it in the exact places as I recall some weird spot that didn't make sense. Just make sure it's not exposed to heat from the engine. The biggest pain in the butt is disconnecting the plug. Just look at your new plug and you'll see how it 'snaps' in.

    Get a few small black zap straps so you can secure the new one in nicely. Should only take about 15 minutes.

    cheers,
    Mark
    #3
  4. TR5ESU

    TR5ESU Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2008
    Oddometer:
    324
    Location:
    Surrey, UK
    I have replaced mine one recently and I can tell you it's not hard. 20-40 minutes max.
    Steps:
    1- Remove the bolt holding the sensor
    2- Remove the bolt holding the cable cove on the swinging arm (you don't need to remove the big one, the cover just slides out)
    3- Remove the seat, then that plastic cover (there are 4 zip ties that need to be cut which hold the cover to the cables).
    4- There are two more zip ties holding the sensor cable to the frame.. it's tricky to get your hands in there if you have big hands.. but doable.
    5- Unplug the sensor cable.
    5- put the new sensor in and repeat the process in reverse order!

    Note: my sensor cable was routed in between the frame cross bar and the tube that extends from the rear shock bolt, I believe this is what caused my sensor to fail. I think that with the flex of the frame and may a little bending on my rear shock bolt the cable got pinched between these two structures and broke..
    So I routed the cable to go below the frame cross tube.

    Cheers!
    #4
  5. markymcd

    markymcd Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2008
    Oddometer:
    890
    Location:
    Vancouver, BC, Canada
    I changed the routing to that too.
    #5
  6. Ceri JC

    Ceri JC UK GSer

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2009
    Oddometer:
    2,462
    Location:
    All over, usually Wales or England
    Hi All, many thanks for the advice. I had a go last night and managed to get as far as trying to route the new cable where the old one had gone. As others reported, had difficulties getting it over the top of the frame crossbar. I am a bit anal about doing things "the right way" and not bodging them, unless I absolutely have to, so spent an hour trying all sorts of tricks to route it exactly as it was originally. Needless to say, none worked and I'll try some new routing instead. There's comfort in knowing it's not just me being stupid and everyone encountered it.
    :D

    Bartron, thanks for the offer. When you do yours, I'd recommend you take heed of the alternative routing recommended here. :)

    As Marky reports, working out how to get the old plug out is hardest. I found a short, flatbladed screwdriver worked best to get underneath and push the catch back to release it. Look at the new plug and you'll see where you need to do this on the existing one.

    EDIT: Now done, all working, slightly different routing avoiding the top frame brace, but fingers crossed, nowhere near anything hot or which will rub it. Thanks everyone.
    #6