Flushing & Bleeding Brakes R1150GS: Another Pictorial

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by Some-Young-Guy, Apr 18, 2009.

  1. Some-Young-Guy

    Some-Young-Guy Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2007
    Oddometer:
    377
    This post is intended to complement "BMW Integral ABS System Flushing and Bleeding 101" by Hager, Gilman, and Curry, which can be found in the Hall of Wisdom. I followed their procedure to the letter, but I think the photographs in this post will be helpful to some. These photographs were taken while I flushed the iABS brakes on my 2004 R1150GS.

    The first thing I did was thoroughly clean all three sets of calipers with Simple Green, a tooth brush, and warm water. This photograph shows the front-right caliper.

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    Then I installed the wooden shims in the calipers. The next two photographs show the wooden shims in the front-right caliper and the front-left caliper. I did not take a picture of the shim in the rear caliper.

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    This photograph shows the condition of the iABS reservoir for the front calipers when it was first opened.

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    This photograph shows the "turkey baster" removing the used brake fluid from the reseroir.

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    This photographs shows the funnel and rubber stopper installed in the iABS reservoir for the front-calipers. It is important that when you first fill the funnel with brake fluid, that you do it VERY SLOWLY as not to trap air in the iABS reservoir.

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    This photograph is a closeup showing the rubber stopper. It sealed well.

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    This photograph shows my milk-jug arrangement for flushing the control-lever curcuits. I used 5/16-inch inside diameter tubing from the local hardware store, which cost 29 cents a foot. Warming up the tubing slightly made it easier to attached the tubing to the bleeders.

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    This photograph is a closeup showing the six bleeder connections for the control-lever circuits.

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    This photograph shows the milk-jug arrangement from another angle.

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    This photograph shows the tubing at the iABS unit when I was just about finished with the job. When you flush the hand-control-lever circuit you need to pull the lever very slowly at first, otherwise brake fluid will squirt out of the reservoir next to the lever. Regardless of how careful you are, this will probably happen a few times. Keep some rags handy.

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    This photograph shows the top of the iABS unit when I was finished. Some brake fluid leaked from the threads of the bleeders and some spilled from the tubing then it was removed from the bleeders, but the resulting mess was minimal and easy to clean up.

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    This photograph shows the condition of the used brake fluid from the control-lever circuits that collected in the milk-jug. Not shown here, but the fluid from the front calipers was dirtier than the fluid from the rear caliper.

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    #1
  2. ricohman

    ricohman Marinoni man

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,984
    Location:
    Saskatchewan
    Nice!
    I am about to do this also. The more visual aids the better.
    Now I need to find a stopper and a funnel. I have seen one advertised but I am not into paying $45 for 3 or 4 bucks worth of stuff.
    For some reason I thought the blocks go into the caliper the oether way. I guess they don't!
    I've only made them but never used them.
    #2
  3. Some-Young-Guy

    Some-Young-Guy Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2007
    Oddometer:
    377
    I got the funnel and rubber stopper from www.mcmaster.com.

    Funnel Part No. 4005T5, $6.06 (each)

    Rubber Stoppers Part No. 9545K27, $6.60 (bag of 25)
    #3
  4. Nesbocaj

    Nesbocaj Politicians suck

    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,136
    Location:
    Westchester NY
    Thanks for the part numbers!

    I never thought about using multiple lines, novel approach:rayof
    #4