fork fail....

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by b1pig, Jan 18, 2013.

  1. b1pig

    b1pig Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2013
    Oddometer:
    972
    Location:
    Ray City, Ga
    if anyone has some insight, please share...


    on my 2000 ZX7, i rebuilt the forks following the FSM. the only thing that didn't go as planned was that the rebound (on top of inv forks) damping screws will not go in more than 3 or 4 clicks from all the way out. if i run the spring preload in, that will take away from how much the screws will run in.

    the manual was followed.. but it just aint right.

    and the ride is stiff as hell.
    but. at least they dont leak. :)
    #1
  2. whisperquiet

    whisperquiet Been here awhile

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    Aug 24, 2007
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    62298 in lovely corrupt/bankrupt Southern Illinois
    The fork cap threads on to the damper cartridge if like most forks. Usually, about 12mm of the damper rod is threaded into the top fork cap.....don't thread too much into the cap. Also, some upside down forks have a small diameter internal hollow tube that runs the length of the damper tube from the fork cap rebound adjuster to the bottom of the fork.
    #2
  3. b1pig

    b1pig Been here awhile

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    Oddometer:
    972
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    mine has the tube in it.

    went in just like it came out. did one fork at a time and kept everything arranged as it came out. still. everything went together like it was "supposed" to. except that the "clickers" dont go in like they are supposed to.
    #3
  4. JTT

    JTT Long timer

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    Halifax, NS
    Your going to have to pull them back apart and hope that riding on them didn't do further damage. :eek1

    Check carefully with the exploded diagram in your manual, as something is wrong. Sounds like a washer or spacer of some sort is missing or in the wrong order, making the precise distance from the adjuster to the needle (other end of the small hollow tube) incorrect. Adjusting the spring preload should only adjust the length of the spring, but it sounds like your's in adjusting the internal length (effecting that hollow tube) as well.

    It's generally good practice to back off all adjusters before disassembly.
    #4
  5. fast4d

    fast4d Long timer

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    Los Angeles, CA

    yes. I found this out on my learning curve.:D
    #5
  6. MCCOYBOY

    MCCOYBOY Adventurer

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    Jan 17, 2012
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    Location:
    Swanton, MD
    Remove the caps from the cartridge rod, screw the rebound adjusters all the way in, reinstall the caps.
    #6
  7. b1pig

    b1pig Been here awhile

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    Jan 16, 2013
    Oddometer:
    972
    Location:
    Ray City, Ga
    thanks, guys.

    looks like i might have some time tuesday... might see if i can get the caps off and take a look.


    as for damage.... i'm hoping nothing is. before i put them back on the bike, i cycled them. seemed to work ok. just stiff as a brick.
    #7
  8. stainlesscycle

    stainlesscycle Long timer

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    morgantown, wv
    i don't know this fork, but i would do the opposite. make sure the rod is fully seated, all the way in - sometimes they appear fully down, but they're not..... . put the top clickers all the way out, then reinstall.

    if you turn the rebound adjusters all the way in, they won't be able to screw into the rod when after you install the caps..... and you'll destroy the taper/threads on the adjusters...
    #8
  9. b1pig

    b1pig Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2013
    Oddometer:
    972
    Location:
    Ray City, Ga
    the forks are inverted cartridge... kayaba.

    well. i went back and looked at the shop manual. its been over a year, so i dont remember if i did this or not. the manual DOES say that the rebound adjuster is to be screwed in until it is 25mm from the bottom of the spring adjuster. that might be where i messed up. i dont remember measuring anything like this.

    might be the problem.
    :baldy

    when in doubt, read the damned manual...
    #9