Found a '73 Honda CL125 in a Barn. The fun begins...

Discussion in 'Old's Cool' started by YJake, Jan 13, 2011.

  1. YJake

    YJake Roaming

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    :evil

    After bringing it over 1,200 miles home I've spent the past week messing with the thing and have it mostly sorted. I'll fill in the whole story in another day or so, but right now I really need to know two things.

    -What oil does this damn thing take? (My google-fu must be lacking today) It has a small leak comming from somewhere and I'm sure it needs and oil change after sitting since the 80's.:huh

    -Besides Bikebandit.com, where is the best place to find parts?

    If this thread should be in the garage move it, but it is a thumper and I will be updating this thread with progress (And failure of course.)

    -Jake :freaky
    #1
  2. Silver King

    Silver King Maita'i roa ae!

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    You sure about that? IIRC CL125 was a twin.

    Edit: the old 125's were twins. What you have is a single. Back to my cave. : )
    #2
  3. Seth S

    Seth S Will _____ for _____

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    Oil.....pretty much any motorcycle oil you want. Might be a good idea to change the oil and clean any screens and replace any filters. Inspect the drain plug and the condition of the oil that comes out. With the fresh oil in fire the bike up, get it warmed up, take it for a spin around the block....then come home and change the oil again. Help clean the bike out especially if its been sitting for a while.

    You might check www.dratv.com ....they might have some parts. Get a manual and find cl forum for more info.
    #3
  4. feed_sparky

    feed_sparky Adventurer

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    Clean the centrifugal oil filter as well, and find a shop manual of some type, they are life savers. IMO bike bandit is a bit high on prices, eBay is your best bet. I have an XL125 and it's a blast.

    10-40 for the oil, and the oil change interval is every 1000 miles although some say every 700, apparently there are no cam bearings.

    Powroll still makes 145cc big bore kits and stroker cranks for these little guys www.powroll.com , I'm thinking about doing a big bore kit this summer to mine.
    #4
  5. Silver King

    Silver King Maita'i roa ae!

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  6. Shadow5

    Shadow5 Adventurer

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  7. Carter Pewterschmidt

    Carter Pewterschmidt Long timer

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    I think I have some NOS points and condensers for that bike. Maybe even some fork seals, let me know if you're interested.
    #7
  8. YJake

    YJake Roaming

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    I stumbled over this thing in my parent's garage today and decided it was time to try to bring it back to life... :evil

    I had it running around the neighborhood before parking it almost 2 years ago. It ran very rough, the petcock didn't turn off, and upon taking the carb off and popping the bowl off a jet broke off :huh

    A NOS carb kit is now inbound to me courtesy of fleabay.

    Here is the bike as it sits now.
    [​IMG]


    The Carb and Speedo
    [​IMG]


    I'm going to need help with this project because I have never rebuilt a carb or cleaned one thoroughly before. Therefore I have a few questions...

    1) Where do I start with the Carb body?

    2) How do I set the timing?

    3) How do I check/adjust the valves on this engine? (I do them on my 250 ninja, but this is an alien platform)

    4) Is it wise to stick with 6v or cost effective to swap to 12v?

    Any help would be appreciated folks. I plan to keep up with things this time. At least until I dry up my holiday funds :rofl

    -Jake
    #8
  9. redprimo

    redprimo Been here awhile

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    Its a pretty simple carb. Be sure to turn the idle screw and the air mixture screws all the way in, counting the turns as you do. that way after you remove them and cean things up you will be able to instal them close enough to where they were so the bike starts easily. Besure to write those settings down and if you are unsure of anything else just take pics as you go. You have to remove the brass pin that the float pivots on and be carful of the little plunger under the float it is small will fall out once the float is removed.

    Not sure if your carb has an emulsion tube, if so it needs to be removed and cleanned very carefully. It will have tiniy almost microscopic holes that are hard to see if they are clogged. If it has an emulsion tube it will be a brass tube that is inline with the needle. you can remove it with a small wooden dowel and light taps with a mallet. If it has an emulsion tube and still dosen't run once it has been rebuilt most likely you missed an orifice in the emusilon tube, they can be difficult to clean.

    I use a gal can of carb cleaner I picked up at OReiliey's. It has a parts basket and I let the parts soak over night. I then take them into the kitchen (when The wife isn't home) and wash with dish soap and an old toothbrush under warm water. My carbs end up looing like new when they are done.

    When you install the carb you sould add and inline fuel filter before you fill it up. This will save that nice clean carb from getting gunked up from any crud in the tank.

    It is a pretty simple carb and it will only go together one way so don't worry too much.

    Look for a manual it will explain how to check the timing and adjust the valves. You will need it anyways for the correct clearance values for the valves and the points.
    #9
  10. 8gv

    8gv Long timer

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    Prior to running rough before you put it away...
    Did it run ok?
    Could it have sat long enough to gunk up the carb?

    I would not touch the timing or valves until the carb is correct and the bike runs well. If you change more than one thing before you try to start it you'll likely get lost.

    I'd bet that the carb work is all it needs to run decent. Once that happens you are starting from a known performance when you check or adjust the timing and valves.
    #10
  11. oldxr

    oldxr Long timer

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  12. YJake

    YJake Roaming

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    Okay, it ran fine enough to go around the neighborhood and do some light trail riding before parking it. I tried to get it going again a year after that but it wouldn't run without the choke on, guessing the jets were clogged.

    It sat for approximately 5 years before I got a hold of it and another 20 years before that.

    the gas tank is completely rusty inside and is in dire need to attention.


    I'm going to go buy a jug of pinesol to let the carb soak in while I wait on the carb rebuild kit. Should I remove the float for this or can I leave it in? I have no way of measuring where it is supposed to be and don't know how to adjust it. :ear

    This will be quite the learning experience :freaky

    -Jake
    #12
  13. 8gv

    8gv Long timer

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    You should remove the float. Just be careful not to bend the tab that sets the height. You can measure the float height by turning the carb upside down and sighting the float position against a ruler. There could also be a float drop setting so measure that too. In general, think CLEAN not adjust. Slosh some solvent around in the tank and repeat the rinsing until it pours out clear. Install an in line fuel filter.
    #13
  14. 8gv

    8gv Long timer

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    You should remove the float when you soak the carb. Just be careful not to bend the tab that sets the height. You can measure the float height by turning the carb upside down and sighting the float position against a ruler. There could also be a float drop setting so measure that too. In general, think CLEAN, not adjust. Slosh some solvent around in the tank and repeat the rinsing until it pours out clear. Install an in line fuel filter.
    #14
  15. YJake

    YJake Roaming

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    What is the word on aftermarket Honda parts from Thailand?

    I know that a lot of modern Japanese bikes are assembled there and work fine but what about the parts?

    I ask because a lot of the handle bar controls are made there as well as the new headlight/housing I need.

    -Jake
    #15
  16. Navin

    Navin Long timer

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    I'd drive the 1200 miles back and leave it there again! :lol3

    Some regular Rotella T diesel motor oil from Wal-mart is fine for my new KTMs, that thing will love it. I'd eyeball a universal tank from Clarke too. http://clarkemfg.com/
    #16
  17. YJake

    YJake Roaming

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    Never heard of using Rotella T or any diesel oil in a bike before, any reason for this?

    There was a 1974 CL350 in the room next to this bike, I may just drive the 1,200 miles back and pick up another wallet emptying project :rofl

    -Jake
    #17
  18. Navin

    Navin Long timer

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    :huh never heard of it? It is a most often argued point across the internet! :lol3

    It is wet clutch friendly, commonly used by everyone now. You can pay 4-5 times as much for oil that is sold at a MC dealership that is arguably no better. I run it in a fleet of MX and street bikes, I had been a Amsoil dealer/deciple before this became common knowledge and practice among bike racers.
    #18
  19. YJake

    YJake Roaming

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    Well how about that shit. The thing only holds like 1 liter of oil anyway but I guess it'll work. 15w40 the weight to get?

    -Jake
    #19
  20. Navin

    Navin Long timer

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    I think anything from 10-30 to 20-50 will be just fine in that engine.
    #20