Front rotors locked after wheel remove and replace

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by ultimatezap, Sep 6, 2013.

  1. ultimatezap

    ultimatezap Adventurer

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    Ok, new tires on the 990 Baja. Those 908's were not so great on the road, and since that's what I seem to be doing right now, I went with some Mt 90 scorpions. New tires and wheels on, tighten everything to proper torques, pump up front brake aaannndd, she's locked up tight and won't release. Brake lever spongy and won't get hard past freeplay point. Wheel is locked tighter than tight. I barely got it back on the center stand!

    Bike is new, 450 miles, still have not even done first service. Everything else, except the throttle cam is stock (good grief how does that cheesy little plastic thingie last more than one ride??!!)

    HELP I wanna go ride this beauty!

    Thanks,
    James
    #1
  2. Chuckracer

    Chuckracer Jerkus Maximus

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    Loosen everything back up and carefully follow the proper order of tightening as revealed in the HOW.

    *edit* Huh...can't find it. OK, did you remove the calipers? Are the pads in their proper places, ie; one on each side of the rotor?

    The most likely scenario is that the wheel isn't centered in the forks and that happens if you don't follow the proper order.

    Snug the large axle nut and make damn sure the axle is pulled all the way in to the left (left from the saddle) before you tighten the pinch bolts.
    #2
  3. ultimatezap

    ultimatezap Adventurer

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    Son-of-a-gun! I forgot to bounce the forks!
    Loosened up, bounced, re-snugged.
    Thanks
    #3
  4. FakeName

    FakeName Wile E Coyote SuperGenius

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    Not so fast....

    While the correct tightening order (and fork bouncing) is indeed important for optimum suspension operation, failure to do so won't cause the brakes to lock up.

    Find what caused the lockup- trust me you don't want that to happen while riding.

    There MUST be another problem. Verify the axle spacer is in the correct position- another inmate installed this incorrectly (easy thing to do) and the results were not pretty.

    Please be very careful- I know you're in a hurry to ride, I would be as well. But please check again.
    #4
  5. Chuckracer

    Chuckracer Jerkus Maximus

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    Hope he's alright...
    #5
  6. ultimatezap

    ultimatezap Adventurer

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    I'm OK guys, thanks. Apparently things were out of alignment just enough before the fork bounce to straighten orientations, that it didn't want to play nice. I made sure I did the order correctly. Big nut then small screws. 133 in-lbs on the little guys seems like a lot, but nope, pretty much exactly 11.1 ft-lb.

    Thanks again. That was the first first time. I'm sure the procedure will be smoother next time. Rear wheel was a SERIOUS pain. Without the tool like the front. I mean, no way you're going to just pull the thing apart and slide it together. Took wooden piece and a framing hammer to tap out and drive in. But it worked perfectly when it went back together.

    Any hints to avoid having to bang in and out? I used wooden wedges under the tire, so alignment wasn't the problem.

    Thanks for checking!

    I jumped on the last '13 Baja in the area. This after a thirty year break from dirt bikes in high school. I hope I didn't bite off too much.

    James
    #6
  7. Rodknee

    Rodknee the post is mightier than the sword...

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    :eek1 don't beat the snot out of the axle... you are asking for failure!

    remove it again, clean it off and grease it. my 2 year old niece could remove the axle on my bikes. :deal
    #7
  8. Chuckracer

    Chuckracer Jerkus Maximus

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    Mine are tricky and I often have to resort to a tapping tool.
    #8
  9. Rodknee

    Rodknee the post is mightier than the sword...

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    but you strip bolts, so it is to be expected...

    seriously, clean both axles and grease them. they will slide in/out like butta...
    #9
  10. TexaNate

    TexaNate Been here awhile

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    I could be totally off-base here but I can sort of see why excessive fork binding (legs not being completely parallel with each other) might lock the brake, or at least cause a lot of friction between the pads and the rotor. The pads might not be flush with the rotor smack dab straight between them so they might rub the rotor :deal - there's not a lot of clearance there (nor should there be). Just a thought.

    Happy riding, OP, and welcome to ADVrider :clap
    #10
  11. ultimatezap

    ultimatezap Adventurer

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    Thanks everyone! I joined this forum four years ago and really read and re-read everything on the 950/990's,and finally bit. I mean really, I have read pretty much every thread in the orange crush section.

    I finally decided I'd had enough of reading and jumped. Good grief I love this thing! Best times I've had clothed (or not) for years. I've made some rookie mistakes, so have a few scratches, but now I don't have to worry about that any more!

    I continue to read and learn.

    This place is truly amazing.

    Answers from you guys and the fix in minutes!

    Thank you.
    Thank you.
    #11
  12. Sumi

    Sumi Long timer

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    +1 on this. IMO no way that if the correct spacer is on the correct side and after tightening the big nut to spec while the clamp on the left fork leg is loose & seeing that the open end of the axle isn't out or in the right fork leg something like 1inches - which would be obvious to spot and a little bouncing on the bike won't solve it anyway - the wheel can't be that missaligned to cause a serious lockup. Check that the correct spacer is on the correct side and that the brake disks are inbetween the brake pads, and that the disk doesn't interfere with the caliper support.
    #12