Fun with Outright Junk

Discussion in 'Trials' started by Brewtus, Mar 23, 2010.

  1. lineaway

    lineaway Long timer

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    Been draggin` my feet on this one! Air cooled, cable clutch. These old bikes start helluva lot better than a pro and makes better power than a beta!
  2. Sting32

    Sting32 Trials Evangelist

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    Y'all used to say "Pics or it didnt happen, maybe we need pics?" LOL.
  3. Thats_a_Five

    Thats_a_Five Adventurer

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    My '86 TLR Reflex runs good but it sounds like you have found some cheap mods to improve it. I have done the airbox mod, lowered pegs, switched front sprocket to lower gearing. Carb seems OK. I read about changing the cam sprocket to advance it's timing and have a degreed sprocket on the way.

    You mention "Modify stock exhaust £00." What mods did you make? I have a home workshop with tools and a welder. I do not want a loud bike.

    Thanks


  4. Twin-shocker

    Twin-shocker Long timer

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    Cut open the back box, and remove the stock silencer parts, replace with a perf tube absorption type set up, which can be made using parts from a used car muffler, which you could be able to get FOC from an exhaust fitting place.

    You can advance the timing using a 5 pin pitbike CDI unit, which also provides a stronger spark, and means no need to dismantle motor at all.
  5. Thats_a_Five

    Thats_a_Five Adventurer

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    Is the CDI box a "Plug and Play" or do I have to sort out what wires to connect to what? I see 2 versions on eBay, one looks like a plain black box the other looks like it is an aluminum box with cooling fins and says "Racing Performance." Is one any better than the other?

    Advancing the spark timing would have a different effect than advancing the cam timing, right? Does it make sense to do both or just one change?

    Thanks
  6. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    Yep, might want to be carefull advancing cam and ignition timing. A little too much of either one will give adverse effects.
  7. Twin-shocker

    Twin-shocker Long timer

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    No you need to solder on wiring connectors. Advancing the cam or ignition timing is really only worth doing on the TLR if you increase compression at the same time. A new carb, and alterations to the intake and exhaust systems will make far more difference to these bikes.
  8. Thats_a_Five

    Thats_a_Five Adventurer

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    Intake mods done, exhaust pending time to do it. Thanks

  9. lineaway

    lineaway Long timer

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    Being cheap, I do not think I would ruin the stock muffler. Not that hard to find an old super trap or other exhaust for these bikes. Meaning I`d want to keep the stock one stock. Not to mention most people in the USA need/ should keep the original spark arrestor to ride our lands where they are required.
  10. Brewtus

    Brewtus Buffoonery, Inc.

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    That and the fact these things run just fine with a few simple non-Chinese/Taiwanese crap mods for most TRIALS applications here in the U.S. Just sayin. :evil
  11. Thats_a_Five

    Thats_a_Five Adventurer

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    I agree, that I would rather not do any irreversible mods to the exhaust. the system is in very good, original condition. This bike is still street legal and I also have other bikes for competition. I do like a quiet bike and this one is so quiet I can sneak up on Bambi.

    I will give the cam gear advance a try when the part arrives. Maybe if I ever assemble that box of parts into a full TLR200, I will try a different exhaust.

    Thanks
  12. Twin-shocker

    Twin-shocker Long timer

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    The stock TLR intake, ignition and exhaust systems kill the power pretty much stone dead. Stock unmodified bikes have around 8bhp at the rear wheel, and are not that great if you intend to ride in competitive events.

    In terms of cost modifying the stock exhaust is FOC for anyone who can use a MIG welder, and can get a used car exhaust to provide the parts needed. A very low cost item is the Chinese CDI unit, which will fit a TLR after simple wiring changes, and while working best with higher compression motors, do improve the stock low compression ones as well.

    The following are the best possible modifications for a stock TLR, where there is any intention to use it in serious competition:

    1) Exhaust system alterations as outlined earlier.
    2) Removal of flame trap and intake silencer elements from stock air box, fitment of foam pod filter onto stub fabricated to fit into intake hose.
    3) Replacement of very often badly worn OE carb, with new Taiwanese direct OE replacement.
    4) Fit Chinese pitbike CDI unit, which provides stronger spark, more spark advance at lower RPM, and does not have the retard function built into the OE units, which on the dyno acts exactly like a rev limiter, restricting rear wheel power to something like 8bhp.

    None of the above changes are required on bikes not being used competitively, and I get the feeling the restrictions on the TLR were designed by Honda to help make the machines bulletproof reliable, and difficult/impossible to damage, even if being used for long periods at high rpm, during trail or road riding.

    All in all the TLR is a bike which can be easily and dramatically improved for very little money, and as this is the case I find it surprising that most people seem happy to ride the stockers, which arent really that much fun, when compared back to back with a modified machine?
  13. Brewtus

    Brewtus Buffoonery, Inc.

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    'Ol OJ is not doing much these days, so I thought I would get the old warhorse out and use it to help set/ribbon sections for our upcoming National in Sipapu. Not may pics (too busy), but did manage to get a couple -

    [​IMG]

    I'm trying my best not to look tired in this photo -

    [​IMG]


    We got a lot of work done this weekend. It's shaping up to be an awesome event. Who's coming?? :ear
  14. UtahGuido

    UtahGuido Long timer

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    Cool pics Brewtus. Good luck with the event!


    I have a new starting regimen for my TLR:

    1) Get out the Swiss Army knife.
    2) Flip out the bottle opener/screwdriver.
    3) Crack open a beer (actually that's later) - Screw the idle screw in all the way.
    4) Start it up, first kick.
    5) Screw the idle screw out as it warms up.

    That's been working this week.
  15. UtahGuido

    UtahGuido Long timer

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    I finally got around to getting with my neighbor Eric and relocating the footpegs on Mr. TLR (working name Otis). Here's a picture documentary:

    Otis on his way to surgery:
    [​IMG]


    I'd cut off the old mounts and having kind of butchered them (a hacksaw worked better than a cut-off wheel) Eric had to add some metal. That's real thin material below the hole:
    [​IMG]


    Since the hole was there I decided to use it. I cut a couple 1.5 x 3 inch pieces of 1/4 inch steel and drilled a 10mm hole in each and bolted it in place. This was nice because I could play around with the positioning then bolt it down for welding. I ended up going with the esthetics of having the add-on follow the lines of the frame rather than pointing straight down so the pegs ended up pretty far back. More on that later.
    [​IMG]


    Eric at work:
    [​IMG]


    Finished product:
    [​IMG]


    So the pegs ended up pretty far back which at first had me concerned. The front end came up almost too easily and I was afraid I'd created an uncontrollable wheely monster. But last weekend I took it down to Moab for a it's first real shakedown cruise since I got it and my fears were allayed. It worked great (front suspension excepting).


    Me and Otis on the Slickrock Trail:
    [​IMG]


    Glamour shot:
    [​IMG]


    Fins 'N Things Jeep trail:
    [​IMG]


    Otis hiked right up this stuff, except for one spot where I would have wanted a spotter. Most climbs he tractored right up in second gear, first gear being for something real technical or a real steep descent.


    Impressions:

    - That's one torquey motor!
    - Front brake is adequate but the front suspension, in its current state, needs work. Disassembly, cleaning, and fresh oil will be a start.
    - The peg location is fine. No problem keeping the front end down but really easy to loft on demand in the first three gears, especially with a little terrain help. Steering is still a slack but oh well.
    - Chain is a little loose. I adjusted the cam a couple notches but the chain loosened right back up. The chain may be history.

    Overall I'm pleased with the little beast. With some suspension work, new chain, engine tuneup, etc., it will be quite acceptable. I like it. Got a bunch of appreciative comment on it too. .
  16. Twin-shocker

    Twin-shocker Long timer

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    The footrest mount area on the TLR is very thin pressed steel, and any alterations to the mounts need to be done with that in mind.
  17. UtahGuido

    UtahGuido Long timer

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    You are right. We welded all around the new mount and caught all the solid steel on the frame. And I left the 10mm hardened steel bolt in there just in case the whole thing lets go, which I don't think it will. Sucker appears to be pretty sturdy. Underside (might just be tacked at this point):

    [​IMG]

    I took the washer out between the nut and the frame to improve the chain clearance a bit
  18. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    If you don't mind, I'd like to know what gearing you are running. It's finally getting cool enough here to get my, new to me TRL out and start getting it ready to ride. I've had it several months and got it running pretty good, but put it away waiting for cooler weather. Got some great trails and trials riding in the "area", so I need to set it up for OLD GUY :gerg dirt riding.
  19. neilking

    neilking Been here awhile

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    I don't have that much of a problem with the peg position. What I had a problem with is the lack of power. Now that's been taken care of. Chinese carb off a Lifan 200 along with the ignition module, cam off a honda 200 ATV. Had to custom drill jets which took awhile.
  20. UtahGuido

    UtahGuido Long timer

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    I think I have a 10 up front and a 40 something in the back - its whatever came with the bike. I'll look it up when I get off work late tonight.