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Discussion in 'Equipment' started by seniorasi, Jan 25, 2013.
Search on "raised atc four fuse"
I've used these with success and velcroed it down. I used the 6 circuit, cost about 30 bucks.
there was a guy on here who was doing a group buy on those a few years back. it was either here or stromtrooper. it's a do it yourself kit. you will need a goo set of crimpers.
I'm trying out something a little different:
Link here: http://goo.gl/Nj5gG $25
Has 2 inputs, 1 ground hub. 14 miniblade fuse outputs (7 each side) and 7 ground inputs.
Roughly 4x3x1 inches.
+1 on the Eastern Beaver, very well made and designed for hard envirements, as opposed to the "Fuzeblock". I have gone through two of them, they both broke at the same place, the little terminal block for power input, they are just soldered onto the circuit board as opposed to a through circuit board bolt on the Eastern Beaver fuseblock.
The problem with fuse blocks is water. All of these have exposed copper and electricity and metal don't mix well. I will be replacing the fuze box on my bike with a Rowe electronics PDM60. This device is fully enclosed in epoxy and if/when a circuit pops, you can restart it by powering the bike on and off. No fuses to replace or run out of in the middle of no where. No worries of water getting into the electrics. A few bucks more but worth it.
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In my experience, none of the fuze blocks I have used have ever had an issue with water. The little bit that get's anywhere near the fuze block is minimal.
PS Then again, if you place it on the front of your windscreen, and ride in the rain, you might have issues.
Still haven't pulled the trigger on the Fuzeblock yet... I did check the PDM 60 out. It's cool that the unit is sealed. The not so good is it's a sealed unit. Extra wires are a pain. The programmable thing is cool but not into paying a dealer to do something I should be able to do with my laptop. Thanks for the input.
I had one of the Fuzeblocks back when Curt was making them. Nice piece but the downside may be that the total capacity of the block is 30 amps. The desirable feature is the choice of switched on non-switched outputs. I bought it to look at it but ended up giving it away.
Personally, I prefer the Centech AP-1 or AP-2. These can handle 60 amps total. The difference is the AP-1 can be either switched or non-switched depending on how you set it up. The AP-2 is divided with 3 fuses for switched and 2 fuses for non-switched, or reverse, depending on how you set it up.
I have also used the Blue Sea blocks. Usually the smaller six circuit without the ground connections in the panel. These beauties can take a TON of current. Again, they are either switched or non-switched--can't have both on the same panel.
I also have one of Eastern Beaver's panels. Bought that one just to check it out but haven't used it yet.
Besides bikes, I wire cars--hot rods, customs, restorations--and sometimes use one of these panels as an auxilliary panel. The Blue Sea panel was used on a Bonneville racer.
I went with the FUZEBLOCKS brand. Order placed so I'll post some pics of the install.
14 bucks and use a mini blade fuse to suit
Nicely done! Thanks for sharing that. I'm having second thoughts about my purchase now...Guess I can always peddle it in the Flea Market if I change my mind when it arrives...
You won't regret it. It is a fine box that is easy for most to install.
I recently installed one on my 1200RT. I can post some pictures up here soon too. Very easy to install. And it's working great on a few chargers and heated gear.
By the way, I put one in my bike as well recently, just so you know I back my preference!
You know how many 80's bikes have their fuse blocks in exactly that place? Between the headlight and shield?
Those never seemed to have had problems.
water does surprisingly little to actually screw with DC electronics. The problem is corrosion, not really electrocution. AC however would be a shit show.
I was mounting an exposed block to someones bike when he digressed. So I took the whole thing over to a plastic bucket. Connected some cables to a battery, then 2ft later to an inline fuse, then to a set of $400 lights (my own).
I dropped the exposed inline fuse in the water and left it there while I worked on other stuff. 4hrs later and the lights were just starting to go out (battery was being drained).
All 100% true. 12 volts doesn't short easily. That is why they use it for out door lighting. Low amps helps too.
That said, I was just trying to make a point. One of my friends had his fuse block under his seat, but there was a hole in the fender and salt water from the roads caused his fuse block to go bad, ruined the relay.
See the RTV covering the hole behind the fuse block?
So...If I choose to use the FUZEBLOCK and want to run heated liner, gloves and pants it appears I will be over the 10@ per circuit current limit. How are you guys that run it addressing this?
I never had an issue. Unless you are running them 100% hot all the time you won't be anywhere near the limit. I run both gloves and jacket liner on one ten amp circuit.
You are over thinking this.
Hi Jim, Liner: 6.4@, gloves 2.2@. The only problem I can foresee is adding pants on the same circuit which would put me over 12@ when going 100% on the controller. I've never run heated clothing so this is all new territory and I appreciate any advice or suggestions.